Heartstone Manchester Owners and Jotul F500 too

[mrd1995]

My wife and I will be getting a stove installed sometime prior to next fall, so I have began cutting firewood in preparation(dead standing ash and some oak that has been in log length for 3+years on sleepers). My question for everyone is what is the firebox depth front to back on this stove, It says that a max log size of 24" can be fed through the side door so I am assuming the firebox is 24+" in length but the manual does not provide the box depth. Since we will be pressed on time for the drying I will more then likely cut and split some wood that will fit in the firebox front to back. Thank you in advance.

 

[begreen]

The Manchester is primarily an E/W loader. It's been a while since I have seen one of these stoves, but I would guess the N/S depth is around 12-14"? Maybe @webby3650 has one on the showroom floor to measure? When cutting wood, don't go for the maximum length, cut them a bit shorter, like 21-22" to give yourself a little wiggle room.

 

[mrd1995]

Thank you @begreen for the advice, I have been cutting it at 16" is there any reason that I should cut some besides personal preference to burn N/S? I Thought maybe a 1/2 cord or so for shoulder season when I want a short burn. Thoughts on this?

 

[begreen]

It might be handy to have some short 12" skinny splits to use as sleepers under the E/W splits for easier starts, but otherwise no. You should ask Jotul F500 and F600 owners too. They have a similar firebox configuration. I've added this to the title to attract more eyeballs.

 

[webby3650]

The Manchester is primarily an E/W loader. It's been a while since I have seen one of these stoves, but I would guess the N/S depth is around 12-14"? Maybe @webby3650 has one on the showroom floor to measure? When cutting wood, don't go for the maximum length, cut them a bit shorter, like 21-22" to give yourself a little wiggle room.

Maximum length for the Manchester is 12” N/S or 24” E/W. The Oslo is 15” N/S and 25 E/W.
I would bother loading n/s, it’s a pain. Just split your wood up smaller so it dries quicker.

 

[CentralVAWoodHeat]

We have an F600 and I burn both N/S and E/W. I only ever use the side load door. The only time the front door gets opened is during a post season cleaning. I believe I can fit up to about a 16” split in terms of firebox depth. I have to factor in that I have to insert the split into the side door and then turn it to make it run front to back in the firebox.

 

[Woody Stover]

I have began cutting firewood in preparation(dead standing ash and some oak that has been in log length for 3+years on sleepers)

The Oak probably won't get dry by fall. I cut a White Ash last fall for my SIL's stove, that had been standing dead for several years and was expecting that wood to be fairly dry. Only a few top branches were very dry, the rest of the trunk metered at around 30% moisture content. I'm hoping that this isn't moisture within the cells, but some other type of moisture that will leave the splits quicker. I'm not banking on this wood, though..I've got a Plan 'B.' I got some dead-standing Am. Elm from a tree guy that was working at a neighbor's house, and I also got some Silver Maple that I got by approaching the homeowner that had it dropped. In my experience, soft Maple doesn't burn as long, but can get pretty dry over one summer. I'll also grab more dead standing trees in the woods here, that are <8" with the bark already falling off. I've found these to be pretty dry, even Oak.
You've gotta have dry wood for these new stoves to work well.

 

[mrd1995]

@Woody Stover, thank you for your input a moisture meter is on this weekends shopping list. Great advice on the <8" dead standers.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Manchester guys, I don’t see any andirons in the pics of the stove. How do you guys fill the firebox up without having splits up against the glass?

 

[Woody Stover]

@Woody Stover, thank you for your input a moisture meter is on this weekends shopping list. Great advice on the <8" dead standers.

Bear in mind, the most accurate moisture readings are obtained when several large splits are brought to room temp for a couple days, then re-split and tested in the center of the freshly-exposed face, along the grain direction. Jam the pins in firmly...not breaking them off, of course.

 

[Woody Stover]

Manchester guys, I don’t see any andirons in the pics of the stove. How do you guys fill the firebox up without having splits up against the glass?

I have andirons, but without them, I might try putting a large split on the bottom/front of the load, in hopes that it would remain intact longer, providing a more solid base for the wood above..
You're looking for a new stove, right? You could just get a Woodstock IS, with the fold-down andirons..

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I have andirons, but without them, I might try putting a large split on the bottom/front of the load, in hopes that it would remain intact longer, providing a more solid base for the wood above..
You're looking for a new stove, right? You could just get a Woodstock IS, with the fold-down andirons..

I’m in research mode. I plan on doing small rebuild on my encore in the off season with the intent of replacing the stove once it’s wore out again. I can’t afford a new stove before next fall. I’ve been wanting an Ashford but I don’t think it will work with my current flue location. My hearth and living room are really setup for an E/W stove. The Ashford just has a lot of stove behind the centerline of the flue. So to answer your question, yes, I am looking for a new stove.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

And Woodstock is out of the question. I’m not a fan of the designs. I’m a classic cast iron looking kind of guy.