This looks like quite a bit of a bugger.
Does the north side of the house face the street? Do the stairs up from the garage enter the main floor under the curved stair case?
There are four factors to consider. How you weight them is up to you.
1. Snow load. I have to plan on 55 pounds per square foot snow load up here, and I like/want the roof penetration for my chimney stack to be within a foot or two of the ridgepole at the peak of the roof so I have the smallest possible glacier trying to push my chimney onto the lawn every spring.
2. Wind direction. This is where the local experienced chimney sweep trumps every keyboard warrior on the internet. How much would it cost for a local experienced sweep to park down the block from your house and figure out where on the roof your chimney penetration should be for reliable economical operation? I am nervous you might end up with tens of feet (3s of meters) of chimney pipe sticking up off your dining room roof to get the chimney tip up out of turbulence near the building. I do think if you install the stove on an exterior wall of the dining room, in calm winds, at say +10C, zeroC, -10C and colder the stove will probably do fine. But you are spending good money on a high end stove that can also do remarkable things in the shoulder seasons - if you have dry wood and good draft. If outdoor temp is +20C and you want the house interior at +24C or +28C, a BK 30 can do that when coupled to a thoughtful chimney install.
3. Chimney efficiency. Some of the wood you burn every time you load the stove is going to make heat that is used to carry smoke and particles and water vapor up your chimney instead of heating your home. It just is. One option would be to just bring a firepit indoors, roast some smores in the family room over an open fire and let the bedrooms fill up with smoke. You will be keeping all the heat generated in the house. The most efficient chimney, that carries the smoke out with the least amount of "wasted" BTUs, is inside the insulation envelope for as long as possible, and has the shortest possible length once it is outside the insulation envelope. I think you are kinda screwed on this one.
4. Access. Burning even 4 cords a year, somebody is burning some calories humping material around. Burning 6-8 cords annually, you will have no time for no unnecessary foolishness winter of 25/26. There is going to be a trail of bark chips somewhere in the house.
Number five would be aesthetics. At the end of day, your house was not designed to use a wood stove efficiently. You are going to have to make several compromises to make this work. But if you put an excellent stove under a mediocre chimney you would be well advised to manage your system wide expectations towards mediocre, even with dry wood at or under 20% MC.
Of the options numbered, I think I dislike #5 the least. You would lose a closet in the MBR to the chimney chase, but they make free standing wardrobes out of hardwood, or used to. It does, I think, put the chimney on the back side of the house though near the eave line. You might end up stacking some pipe on the roof in that location, but it won't be the eyesore of the neighborhood. You could hopefully talk your wife into maybe building a ready storage rack maybe one meter tall and two meters long to hold about a weeks worth of seasoned cordwood in the sunroom area during heating season. If you got to go out in the weather every time you load the stove this is probably not going to work no matter where the stove is located.
I am underinformed, but with the data posted here I am rather nervous about demolishing the wall between the living room and family room. It looks like the wall above it on the second floor is the NW facing wall of the MBR, and there ought to be a roof on a master bedroom. That roof, in NWT, is going to have some snow on it. My sense of the thing is if the builder put a load bearing truss in the top of that wall you can take out the cosmetic parts. If the builder didn't put in a load bearing truss at the top of that dividing wall you are going to need some jacks to hold up the second floor and the roof while you build a new load bearing wall with maybe a double wide door opening more or less on center with stub walls at the ends to support a load bearing truss so you and your true love don't wake up in the dining room someday, covered with snow. Opening that wall will simplify heating the main level with wood, I do agree on that point. I haven't seen your blueprints or your inspections or your as builts, blah, blah, but somewhere above that dividing wall are some shingles with snow on them that need to stay put.
We have a number of threads about how to move heat around in homes that were not designed for wood heat. Starting with a clean sheet of paper and an empty lot, how can we maximize the effectiveness of a single wood stove?
www.hearth.com
