HELP...no instructions with universal adapter

[Spauld]

I received venting parts for my new stove install that came with no instructions. The instructions I do have are sort of vague. The venting system is Ventis by Olympic... sold as a Champion chimney system (already confusing!). The area where I am lost is how my 6" double wall pipe transitions to the double wall class A chimney. I have the Ventis universal adapter (part #VAUA-06) and I can see how to attached the chimney. It just slips into the larger side of the adapter and can be screwed into place. The smaller end of the adapter however slips INSIDE of the inner sleeve of the double wall stove pipe. It fits OK, but there is no way to secure it with screws without driving screws all the way through the stove pipe from the outside, ind INTO the inner sleeve of the pipe. Is this OK to do? The 'experts' at the online store where I purchased this don't even seem to know how it should be attached. I've included pics as well. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

PS- I've also included a pic of the ceiling box all of this is supposed to integrate with. There does not seem to be a way to connect all of this either (no instructions, no obvious pre-drilled screw holes, etc). I could use help there as well. THANKS.

 

[bholler]

I use olimpia's ventis chimneys all the time there have always been instructions with al of the support boxes i have used i would call them they can probably fax or email you a copy. As far as attaching the double wall to the class a chimney you need an adapter for the double wall to regular pipe or what i have done is drill a larger hole in the outer layer so you can put screws through the inner layer only. By the way where did you buy the chimney? I didn't know olimpia sold under other names. By the way the chimney does not attach to the support box it just sits in there and gravity holds it in place.

 

[BrotherBart]

Probably purchased from Woodland Direct and shipped from Olympia. I have had several online dealers do that.

 

[bholler]

ok was unaware they did that

 

[webby3650]

Its fine to pre-drill and screw through the double wall connector pipe and into the chimney adaptor. It's the only way to secure it. I use self-drilling SS 1" screws at this connection. Its fine on connector pipe, you just don't want to use screws that penetrate the inner wall on chimney pipe, or the joints on double wall connector pipe. Make sure to predrill, or the screw will just push the adaptor in and it won't be secure.

On the ceiling box, it's up to you to decide where you need to fasten it, every install differs. Drywall screws punch right through it.

 

[Spauld]

Its fine to pre-drill and screw through the double wall connector pipe and into the chimney adaptor. It's the only way to secure it. I use self-drilling SS 1" screws at this connection. Its fine on connector pipe, you just don't want to use screws that penetrate the inner wall on chimney pipe, or the joints on double wall connector pipe. Make sure to predrill, or the screw will just push the adaptor in and it won't be secure.

On the ceiling box, it's up to you to decide where you need to fasten it, every install differs. Drywall screws punch right through it.

 

[Spauld]

OK, thanks to all for the replies. There is no problem with the chimney pipe-to-adapter connection. That looks pretty straight forward. The issue is with connecting the double-wall to the adapter. The smaller sleeve on the adapter slips inside the inner pipe on the double wall, leaving no way to connect it with screws unless I drive a screw all the way through that connection, leaving threads on the inside of the inner pipe. Seems there should be a screw tab or secondary sleeve that sisters up to the outer wall, just like all of the other connections. Really strange.

 

[Spauld]

I use olimpia's ventis chimneys all the time there have always been instructions with al of the support boxes i have used i would call them they can probably fax or email you a copy. As far as attaching the double wall to the class a chimney you need an adapter for the double wall to regular pipe or what i have done is drill a larger hole in the outer layer so you can put screws through the inner layer only. By the way where did you buy the chimney? I didn't know olimpia sold under other names. By the way the chimney does not attach to the support box it just sits in there and gravity holds it in place.

 

[Spauld]

Yep, Woodland Direct. ....OK, so BHoller, your saying I should transition back to single wall pipe in order to match this up correctly? Because if its acceptable to have those screw threads sticking into the inner pipe, then I guess I don't really have a problem. I can probably find longer black screws that will go from the outside of my double wall pipe to make the connection. It just seems like the adapter ought to have another wall that sisters the outer walls of each part together (just as a better option for screwing them together).

 

[webby3650]

Its acceptable to screw through the double wall stove pipe and through the adaptor, securing the 2 together.

 

[Spauld]

Its acceptable to screw through the double wall stove pipe and through the adaptor, securing the 2 together.

Thanks Webby... I wasn't sure about this. I did speak today with a rep from Woodland Direct. He told me there was no reason to screw the double-wall pipe to the adapter since
there is no way it could come apart. The thinking is that once the adapter is connected through the ceiling box and screwed to the chimney pipe, it can't really release and come apart
since the pipe sections below it are also screwed together (especially if I also screw through the bottom of the box and into the rim of the adapter...attaching it to the box). Though he
also said I really didn't need to do that either, due to the weight of the chimney holding the adapter in place, inside the box. I guess this is all probably true, but I wonder what my local
code enforcement person will say when they arrive to inspect my work? I'd also just feel safer knowing everything is SCREWED together, and not simply held in place by weight and
connections of other parts. But that's just me probably not knowing about this stuff.

 

[webby3650]

I always screw mine at the adaptor. Each joint is required to have 3 screws.

 

[bholler]

I always screw mine to like you said i was always told every joint needed 3 screws. I don't remember what pipe it was but one i used said not to screw through both so i never do but i don't really see why it would matter. The reason there is not a second wall is that is a universal adapter and if there was a second wall it would not work right for single wall. One thing is you need to make sure you leave a little gap at the top so you get the air flow you need through the outer chamber of the double wall that is why i usually use the double to single wall adapter it has that space built in. That way if the home owner takes it apart to clean the pipe it is allot harder for them to put it together wrong.

 

[Spauld]

I always screw mine to like you said i was always told every joint needed 3 screws. I don't remember what pipe it was but one i used said not to screw through both so i never do but i don't really see why it would matter. The reason there is not a second wall is that is a universal adapter and if there was a second wall it would not work right for single wall. One thing is you need to make sure you leave a little gap at the top so you get the air flow you need through the outer chamber of the double wall that is why i usually use the double to single wall adapter it has that space built in. That way if the home owner takes it apart to clean the pipe it is allot harder for them to put it together wrong.

 

[Spauld]

OK bholler, what you and webby are saying about the 3 screws makes sense. And I did wonder about that air space you mention.
I wondered why the pipe would fit snug up against the adapter and not have a small space there for air flow. I wonder if I could just
not push the adapter all the way in? There seems to be enough lip there to still get the screws in without slipping it all the way in.
Maybe leave a half inch of gap? And with that in mind, I wonder why the same principle wouldn't apply to my class A chimney?
It is suppose to fit snug in the other end of the adapter. ...I don't remember if there is a gap at the top, under the chimney cap.

I'll see if I can find a picture of the double-to-single wall adapter on line. That might be the best way to go, as you suggest.

 

[bholler]

Yeah just not pushing it tight should work fine. That would not apply to class a chimneys because they are insulated and don't need airspace

 

[Spauld]

Yeah just not pushing it tight should work fine. That would not apply to class a chimneys because they are insulated and don't need airspace

 

[Spauld]

...or.... I wonder if I could also drill a couple of ventilation holes. I have a real nice carbide hole saw (1" if I recall). I purchased to drill clean holes through stainless pots (for installing ball valves).
I bet that would look pretty nice. I'd probably need to touch up the holes with stove pipe paint. I suppose if I drilled 3 or four holes like this, I could then access the inner sleeve fairly easily and install short screws like you suggested earlier. Does that sound feasible?

 

[bholler]

Yeah i usually just do 1/2" holes but bigger ones would work and give you more airflow

 

[Spauld]

Yeah i usually just do 1/2" holes but bigger ones would work and give you more airflow

 

[Spauld]

Thanks very much. This has all been very helpful info. It's my first wood stove, so I want to make sure I do all of this correctly.
One last question.... why do they make both vented and non-vented roof flashings? I purchased a non vented but wonder if I
should also drill a couple of those holes in the flashing as well, up tight under where the rain collar goes? I originally purchased
the non vented thinking yellow jackets or wasps would build nests in there over the summer.