We were able to find a replacement for the main damper for our 1996 Jotul 12 damper but cannot figure out how to actually replace it. does the damper bar go behind or in front of it. Does antone have a picture of one in place? what is the best way to fix it? Take off the top? would really appreciate help of any kind on this. thank you
help with Jotul12 damper repair
- Thread starter ellenp
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Ashful
Minister of Fire
Wow, it’s been a few years, but I’ve had these apart before.
First, definitely remove the top. It makes everything so much easier. Here’s the process:
1. Lift top-load door and remove the little strap that retains the top load door lever. Should be held with two small philips head screws. Make sure you don’t let the door flop over backwards, as the hinges may break, and those tops cannot be bought for any amount of money (read: scrap stove if this happens).
2. Open front doors, stick your head in, and look up. You will see two large bolts, one on either side of the top. Remove these, they hold the top to the stove sides.
3. Set down a tarp or scrap of rug near the stove, and then lift off the top. Yes, it’s that easy, it’s gasketed, and just lifts off. Set it on the rug or tarp.
Now you can get at the bypass damper quite easily. Now here’s where my memory is fuzzy, but I think you might need to remove the back plate to get the damper out, as I think it’s pinched behind the back plate. All of this is easy to do, now that you have the top off the stove.
To remove back plate, should you find it necessary:
1. Remove inner back plate (single bolt at top, your door tool will fit the socket head).
2. Remove cat cover refractory.
3. Lift out inner side plates (they’re just held in with gravity.
4. Vacuum up any mess, as this is the last step before you go into the innards of the stove.
5. Remove four small cap screws (6mm?) that hold back plate.
6. Lift out back plate.
Again, I can’t remember if this is required to access damper, but I seem to remember it is.
Before you get started, you may want to just buy 10 feet of 3/16” braided gasket, and 10 feet of 1/4” braided gasket. You’re going to need a bunch of each.
First, definitely remove the top. It makes everything so much easier. Here’s the process:
1. Lift top-load door and remove the little strap that retains the top load door lever. Should be held with two small philips head screws. Make sure you don’t let the door flop over backwards, as the hinges may break, and those tops cannot be bought for any amount of money (read: scrap stove if this happens).
2. Open front doors, stick your head in, and look up. You will see two large bolts, one on either side of the top. Remove these, they hold the top to the stove sides.
3. Set down a tarp or scrap of rug near the stove, and then lift off the top. Yes, it’s that easy, it’s gasketed, and just lifts off. Set it on the rug or tarp.
Now you can get at the bypass damper quite easily. Now here’s where my memory is fuzzy, but I think you might need to remove the back plate to get the damper out, as I think it’s pinched behind the back plate. All of this is easy to do, now that you have the top off the stove.
To remove back plate, should you find it necessary:
1. Remove inner back plate (single bolt at top, your door tool will fit the socket head).
2. Remove cat cover refractory.
3. Lift out inner side plates (they’re just held in with gravity.
4. Vacuum up any mess, as this is the last step before you go into the innards of the stove.
5. Remove four small cap screws (6mm?) that hold back plate.
6. Lift out back plate.
Again, I can’t remember if this is required to access damper, but I seem to remember it is.
Before you get started, you may want to just buy 10 feet of 3/16” braided gasket, and 10 feet of 1/4” braided gasket. You’re going to need a bunch of each.
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