hi300: leaky grill?

[zenoparadox]

(For the lexicographers in the audience who no doubt will feel the irrepressible urge to "correct" me: the OED gives "grill" as an alternate form of "grille". Regency uses both interchangeably. The manual says "grill". Their web site says "grille" in some places, "grill" in others.)

We got a hi300 last spring, with the decorative grill that goes over the glass. We did not run it much last season because all the wood we had was wet (Yep, that was our first season with wood stoves. No prior experience.) This season is the first one where we're relying on our stoves to heat our house.

Up until today I've found the stove difficult to control. I did the paper test a few weeks back and did remove washers from the latch side. I found that every single time I'd load to the tubes for a long burn, the stove was getting close to an overfire. I've never seen the top glow, but it was close. Yesterday I decided to try something. After a reload, I immediately closed the draft completely shut. It had no discernible effect. Within seconds, the firebox was full of fire. No overfire but definitely not the behavior I'd expect based on descriptions I've read here.

I figured the door seal was fine because I had just checked it and it passed the bill test. The next thing I thought I'd check is the glass seal. I took the door off, took the glass off and checked the gasket. The grill has two "rails" attached to it with screws. The rails run vertically on each side of the grill. I noticed that one of the rails of the grill ran on top of the glass gasket while the other did not (it would rest directly on the door rather than on the gasket). And looking at the construction of the grill and the rails, I'm inclined to think that even if both sides had been consistent there's opportunity for air leaks. I figured it would be worth checking whether the grill caused a problem so I removed it: you know, the less components, the less opportunity for something to go wrong.

When I fired up the stove again, the difference was remarkable. It was like having a different stove. Closing the draft shut immediately now has a quite substantial effect on combustion.

Anybody ever heard of a hi300 (or its siblings) being leaky due to the grill?

 

[begreen]

Good discovery. Sounds like this is worth contacting Hampton/Regency and letting them know.

 

[jophysx]

Haven't had that problem, but this is very good information to know. My glass gasket is getting a little worn in places, so I'll keep an eye out for an issue like this. Thanks.

 

[zenoparadox]

Good discovery. Sounds like this is worth contacting Hampton/Regency and letting them know.

Yeah, I think I'll be contacting the dealer and Regency.

Right now I find I have to literally relearn how to use this stove. I've discovered that I'm now closing the door too fast after after a reload.

 

[jscs.moore]

(For the lexicographers in the audience who no doubt will feel the irrepressible urge to "correct" me: the OED gives "grill" as an alternate form of "grille". Regency uses both interchangeably. The manual says "grill". Their web site says "grille" in some places, "grill" in others.)

We got a hi300 last spring, with the decorative grill that goes over the glass. We did not run it much last season because all the wood we had was wet (Yep, that was our first season with wood stoves. No prior experience.) This season is the first one where we're relying on our stoves to heat our house.

Up until today I've found the stove difficult to control. I did the paper test a few weeks back and did remove washers from the latch side. I found that every single time I'd load to the tubes for a long burn, the stove was getting close to an overfire. I've never seen the top glow, but it was close. Yesterday I decided to try something. After a reload, I immediately closed the draft completely shut. It had no discernible effect. Within seconds, the firebox was full of fire. No overfire but definitely not the behavior I'd expect based on descriptions I've read here.

I figured the door seal was fine because I had just checked it and it passed the bill test. The next thing I thought I'd check is the glass seal. I took the door off, took the glass off and checked the gasket. The grill has two "rails" attached to it with screws. The rails run vertically on each side of the grill. I noticed that one of the rails of the grill ran on top of the glass gasket while the other did not (it would rest directly on the door rather than on the gasket). And looking at the construction of the grill and the rails, I'm inclined to think that even if both sides had been consistent there's opportunity for air leaks. I figured it would be worth checking whether the grill caused a problem so I removed it: you know, the less components, the less opportunity for something to go wrong.

When I fired up the stove again, the difference was remarkable. It was like having a different stove. Closing the draft shut immediately now has a quite substantial effect on combustion.

Anybody ever heard of a hi300 (or its siblings) being leaky due to the grill?

I'm in my second year of burning with the HI300 and have the grill on the door in front of the glass. I also had a block off plate installed this season and have a much better supply of dry wood and the difference is measurable. I have noticed the insert radiates much more heat into the living room area now...to the point of having to put on shorts and a tee shirt with outside temps right around freezing. The real test this year will be when outside temps get down to the 20's and below...I hope it performs the same way.

One interesting point I've noticed...seems every HI300 owner on this site warns about the top of the insert glowing and states this is an over fire. The manual also says when this happens this is an over fire and you need to shut the air down and make sure the fan is on to cool it down. And I essentially agree with this with one caveat. I have found that if you load up the firebox to the tubes with bone dry wood and keep the air open for even a short time (10 to 15 minutes) you will get some degree of orange glow at the top of the insert. I have had this happen on occasion and just quickly closed the air down & turned the fan up and it goes away quickly. The funny thing is...I've actually had this happen (orange glow at the top of the insert) when the condor magnetic thermometer on the outside of the cast iron door is only reading 300 degrees?? Which leads me to believe the firebox can get a whole lot hotter during reloads than the thermometer on the cast iron jacket the insert reads...very frustrating! But I don't get freaked about it anymore as I have never, never had this insert reading above 600 degrees at the door temp with either the condor magnetic thermometer or the IR gun. The most if ever reads is about 550 to 575????

 

[zenoparadox]

The funny thing is...I've actually had this happen (orange glow at the top of the insert) when the condor magnetic thermometer on the outside of the cast iron door is only reading 300 degrees?? Which leads me to believe the firebox can get a whole lot hotter during reloads than the thermometer on the cast iron jacket the insert reads...

According to many forum posts I've read, the door is actually not a good place for a meaningful reading. I've followed the advice I found on the forum and put my condar stove top themometer in the air outlet above the door. Between the "mantel top" and the firebox. ("Mantel top" is the term used in the manual.) This is the same place where you'd peek in to check for a glowing top. The problem with this location is that you cannot really read the numbers, which are on top, but I've marked the side of it.

 

[jscs.moore]

According to many forum posts I've read, the door is actually not a good place for a meaningful reading. I've followed the advice I found on the forum and put my condar stove top themometer in the air outlet above the door. Between the "mantel top" and the firebox. ("Mantel top" is the term used in the manual.) This is the same place where you'd peek in to check for a glowing top. The problem with this location is that you cannot really read the numbers, which are on top, but I've marked the side of it.

Now that is the best advice I received in a long time. I've always thought the cast iron door (or anywhere on the cast iron jacket of the insert) is not really going to give you an accurate temp reading with a magnetic thermometer?? I will definitely give this a try and I assume by putting the condor in the air outlet I will get much hotter temp readings early on in the burn cycle than when I leave it on the center of the cast iron door. Only problem is (as you said) it wouldn't be easy to read the condor in the air inlet and everything I've read on the form (plus the dealer) says the thermometer needs to go in the upper center part of the door?? But I will definitely give your suggestion a try!

 

[zenoparadox]

The first overnight burn after the fix was night and day compared to how it used to behave. My goodness! I think now I'd have to be very negligent to get the stove anywhere close to the overfiring line.

 

[zenoparadox]

Only problem is (as you said) it wouldn't be easy to read the condor in the air inlet and everything I've read on the form (plus the dealer) says the thermometer needs to go in the upper center part of the door?? But I will definitely give your suggestion a try!

I've checked the manual I've downloaded from the Regency site, and searched for "thermometer" and "temperature" but was not able to locate a suggestion about where to put the thermometer. I know I've heard the door location you mention, but I don't remember the source. At the end of the day, maybe it is possible to correlate a door temperature to the stovetop temperature, and maybe that works for some people, but that's just not how I roll.

 

[begreen]

With super dry wood you may need to shut down the stove air much more quickly. I did a reload on a small hot coal bed this morning and started turning the air down in 5 minutes. Shut down fully by 10 minutes. This was with doug fir and thick splits. Don't go by the clock, go by the what the fire visually indicates.

 

[cableman]

I have the decorative door not sure if its any different then the one with out the outer grill. From the inside i have a metal bar which is held down by clips compressing the bar into the glass gasket if that makes sence. Mine seems to be even all the eay around.
I have a condor therm to the left inside the air channel, shine a light and i can see it fine. I also shoot the temp gun at the flue through the air channel, thats been over 600 easy.

Pic is after 11hrs the other day