High Temperature Issues Alderlea T6

[Danaad]

I dont dare put 5 or 6 smaller 2x18 or 3x18 in pieces in at a time, with the damper totally closed the outside temp or the double walled pipe will hold at about 600 degrees which means that it is much hotter inside. I have an installer who put the stove in coming to look at it.
Usally if I just put one larger log in it is controllable being totally shut down

 

[Ohio Valley]

I see the one photo with the welded hole , how did you get to view that ? what did you take apart to reach that welded whole and it looks like you accessed the damper. I would like to look at the damper link as you have in that photo, thanks.

I took the ash pan out, and used a mirror to see under the stove.

 

[begreen]

I'm starting to realize at these frigid temps 700 goal might be better...today I closed the pipe damper and the best I could get on draft is .08 but I can live with that. I usually set and work the air inlet to about 3/4 closed. It's windy but my area 70 percent of the time always changing directions.... I don't see glow either on 750 or so. I emailed pe on draft readings and no response yet. But since I got a bigger and new EPA stove I have slept better.

Our air is usually completely closed off once the fire is fully engaged, or close to it.

I dont dare put 5 or 6 smaller 2x18 or 3x18 in pieces in at a time, with the damper totally closed the outside temp or the double walled pipe will hold at about 600 degrees which means that it is much hotter inside. I have an installer who put the stove in coming to look at it.
Usally if I just put one larger log in it is controllable being totally shut down

We don't have splits smaller than 3". If we did, I would save them for cold starts and not on a hot coal bed. This is a typical reload that we burn on a hot coal bed. It will bring the stovetop up to around 650º typically.

If the draft is strong then I would try running the stove with a magnet or a plug of aluminum foil blocking off the boost air intake hole in the front bottom center of the stove.

 

[MR. GLO]

Our air is usually completely closed off once the fire is fully engaged, or close to it.

We don't have splits smaller than 3". If we did, I would save them for cold starts and not on a hot coal bed. This is a typical reload that we burn on a hot coal bed. It will bring the stovetop up to around 650º typically.

If the draft is strong then I would try running the stove with a magnet or a plug of aluminum foil blocking off the boost air intake hole in the front bottom center of the stove.

View attachment 291482

Im still learning with 2022 PE SUMMIT ....When you close the air inlet do you get smoke or steam for 20 or 30 minutes? Even with good wood? I think your stove is older model and not sure if it makes difference...my typical reload is stt 250-300. it creeps slowly.

I think everyone has a different view of burn times....i considered burn time reaload at 250 300 and then back to 250-300. Some people have claimed 9 to 10 hours and even with the damper closed and air down i have never gotten over 5-6 hours at 300 to 300...I have loaded at 11 pm and then had coals at 7 or so...

I agree the smaller pieces make difference and avoid sometimes, but without more draft readings posted im not sure I would agree on 100 percent user error, unless you expect less wood with shorter burn times to control the STT, but like i said I'm still playing with he PE summit. So far I have only see high draft readings posted. A common theme.

 

[begreen]

Im still learning with 2022 PE SUMMIT ....When you close the air inlet do you get smoke or steam for 20 or 30 minutes? Even with good wood? I think your stove is older model and not sure if it makes difference...my typical reload is stt 250-300. it creeps slowly.

With a reload, yes that's possible as the fresh wood load heats up. Once the (probe) flue temps get in the 5-600º range it clears up.

I think everyone has a different view of burn times....i considered burn time reaload at 250 300 and then back to 250-300. Some people have claimed 9 to 10 hours and even with the damper closed and air down i have never gotten over 5-6 hours at 300 to 300...I have loaded at 11 pm and then had coals at 7 or so...

Reload times will vary with the heat loss of the house. We get 10-12hrs. easily with temps in the 35-45º range but below freezing they are more like 8 hrs. In below 20º weather this could be as low as 6 hrs. This is because our old house has a large amount of glass area and just average insulation. A really tight house with R 4 windows would probably have different results, even in a colder climate. My best friend has been heating exclusively with a Summit since 2012 and rarely fills the stove to capacity unless it's in the low teens or single digits. Even though they have colder weather, their house is better insulated and they like it about 3º cooler than we do on average.

I agree the smaller pieces make difference and avoid sometimes, but without more draft readings posted im not sure I would agree on 100 percent user error, unless you expect less wood with shorter burn times to control the STT, but like i said I'm still playing with he PE summit. So far I have only see high draft readings posted. A common theme.

It's user error when one puts several 1-2" splits on a hot coal bed and expects a moderate fire. If the air is not quickly turned down then that is another operator error. This is not knocking the OP, we have all been there, but it's not the stove from what was reported. The nice thing if draft is consistently high is that there are some minor tweaks to help, but I am hesitant to mention them until they learn proper stove operation. It's too easy to blame the tool at first.

That said, if someone has a 30'+ flue going straight up through the house, draft is going to be an issue for any stove, but it can be more of an issue for easy breathing stoves.

 

[MR. GLO]

Sorry I must have misunderstood...I thought op was complaining about 850 stt. Others are complaining about short burn times. There is so many threads similar to this post I cant even keep with the notes .

 

[Ohio Valley]

In my case, it was user error. After using the stove for a couple months, I've finally have it figured out. The stove does "breath easy", but once you figure out when to adjust the air for your situation, it works perfectly. I did cover the boost air, which did help, but if the wood isn't well seasoned (17-20% moisture in my opinion) the boost air really does help. For some reason one of the 6 stacks of oak didn't season like the the other 5 in my building, and the moisture was in the 21%-30%. That difference in moisture content made a huge difference in the way the stove would burn, but with the boost air uncovered, I can still reach my desired flue and stove top temperatures safely. Once again, thanks for the all the advice and help. Now if I can figure out how to load it without smoke pouring into the room, I'll be all set.

 

[begreen]

There are so many variables with flue, room pressure, fuel, outside temps, and operation that it's amazing stoves work as well as they do.

 

[MR. GLO]

That's great news let us know your stt after a while and if still getting up to 850. Below is a photo of op stove and I have the same discoloration in this area and seen it on others. Also the mark in middle is where i am getting my highest readings. I agree it works good but 850 is pushing it for me. Its good to hear from others that PE said 850 is ok with no glowing. They need to update the manuals with temps.

 

[begreen]

Our stove has never seen 850º stovetop temps in a dozen years of burning. I would need my IR thermometer to read it. Our stovetop thermometer tops out at 750º. This is what it looks like after 12 yrs.