I am already three years ahead and now this....

[Diabel]

I was not planning on processing any wood this year. I have plenty. But I have no choice.

I know, I know to keep everyone away while cutting as this thing will come back up. I have cut several blown overs before. Never had a double blow over though!!

Question:

Which one would you cut first top or bottom?

My plan is to cut the top trunk first 20' from the base, then the bottom trunk at about 5' from the base.

 

[Jags]

Personally - I would be dropping the bottom one first - about 3 feet up the trunk. Get it out of the way (processed) and then take a good look at the final one, depending on the root ball reaction of cutting the first.

Taking the top one first - even up the stem a ways - could be troublesome if it gets tangled in the bottom one. Taking the bottom one first eliminates that part of potential issues.

Above all - be safe. That could be an unpredictable mess.

 

[gzecc]

I too would cut the bottom first. (I'm not a professional).

 

[Diabel]

Thank you. This is why I love this site.

That was my original tackle approach, to cut the bottom one first. Not sure what made me think the other way. Thoughts about removing tension/weight of the bottom trunk just may bring the whole tree to vertical position again.

 

[firefighterjake]

Bottom first . . . and I would personally work it slowly from the top . . . since there is a chance that as weight is removed from the bottom tree being cut that the top tree and root ball could slowly (or quickly) pop back up to the "standing tree position" (new yoga position). As mentioned, cutting the bottom tree would also get everything out of the way so no hang ups.

In any case, just be very careful . . . plan your work . . . keep stepping back to analyze everything and be prepared for movement.

 

[Diabel]

Thanks everyone. I will wait for the weather to cool down a bit and hopefully tackle it next week.

 

[Montanalocal]

One way to proceed is to just wait a few years until the root ball starts to rot apart and let the two trunks down flatter into a more stable position. Personally, I would not feel safe tackling this situation.

 

[woodhog73]

I'm not so sure id cut the bottom first.

From what I see in the picture the root balls are connected. The bottom tree is the heavier tree it looks larger and is a better anchor in keeping both trees from flipping back upright. The top tree is over your head and you can better reach the top tree by using the bottom tree to stand on/ help support you while cutting the top tree.

Also if you completely remove the bottom first, now your top tree has what looks like more leverage to potentially flip upwards some. Meanwhile that bottom tree, once the top tree is gone, really doesn't look that risky at all it's almost on the ground already anyways. And as I mentioned it's anchoring the top tree in place to some degree.

My thought is the weight of the bottom tree will keep the root ball where it is as you start cutting the top tree. You can probably completely remove the top tree with no fear of the bottom tree ( or top tree ) standing up. Then after the top tree is removed, you can deal with the bottom tree, which is much easier to reach and deal with.

I'm just going off your picture so take any advice with a grain of salt. But I would not want to be cutting over my head on a trunk that could stand up. I'd rather be cutting closer to ground level on a trunk that could stand up. And that means leaving the bottom trunk for last.

My thoughts

 

[Diabel]

I'm not so sure id cut the bottom first.

From what I see in the picture the root balls are connected. The bottom tree is the heavier tree it looks larger and is a better anchor in keeping both trees from flipping back upright. The top tree is over your head and you can better reach the top tree by using the bottom tree to stand on/ help support you while cutting the top tree.

Also if you completely remove the bottom first, now your top tree has what looks like more leverage to potentially flip upwards some. Meanwhile that bottom tree, once the top tree is gone, really doesn't look that risky at all it's almost on the ground already anyways. And as I mentioned it's anchoring the top tree in place to some degree.

My thought is the weight of the bottom tree will keep the root ball where it is as you start cutting the top tree. You can probably completely remove the top tree with no fear of the bottom tree ( or top tree ) standing up. Then after the top tree is removed, you can deal with the bottom tree, which is much easier to reach and deal with.

I'm just going off your picture so take any advice with a grain of salt. But I would not want to be cutting over my head on a trunk that could stand up. I'd rather be cutting closer to ground level on a trunk that could stand up. And that means leaving the bottom trunk for last.

My thoughts

If I was to cut the top tree first it would be about 20' up from the rootball. Up the hill where I can stand firmly on the ground.
I would not attempt to cut the top one while standing on the bottom trunk.

 

[TedyOH]

wedge two or three 8 foot 4 x 4's in the hole between the ground and top of the root ball, tie off the top tree trunk (right about where the kids are standing) to another tree trunk close by and have at it, (bottom first) going nowhere.

 

[volunbeer]

If you cut one of them near the root ball to start (your guess is as good as mine which one first) you might want to use a big ratchet strap to hold them together. No guarantees, but less likely to do something real crazy if they are tied together and I would take the bottom one first if I did that. If it looked like it would roll to one side or move attach a cable come along to the second one to stop it from moving too far or shifting much. Be careful with that one - I think when trees are low like that it gives us a false sense of security. Straps and cable come-alongs were essential trail maintenance gear in the Spring.

 

[BigFir]

I like woodhogs thoughts. And I would try to anchor it somehow, that would take all the unpredictability out of the equation. My first thoughts when approaching something is "what is the worst thing that could happen" and assume it is going to.

 

[7acres]

Double blow-down! Wow. Is it hung up in other trees? If not, I'd probably start taking material off the tops of both trees working down toward the roots. Clearing limbs first then bucking the trunk in 5' sections. If it wants to go back to vertical you'll start to see that gradually as you work toward your way to the base. Also, you'll be working clear of most of the reach of the trees should any movement be a concern .

 

[Diabel]

Double blow-down! Wow. Is it hung up in other trees? If not, I'd probably start taking material off the tops of both trees working down toward the roots. Clearing limbs first then bucking the trunk in 5' sections. If it wants to go back to vertical you'll start to see that gradually as you work toward your way to the base. Also, you'll be working clear of most of the reach of the trees should any movement be a concern .

It is not hung up in other trees. But it leveled bunch of 2-3" beech saplings. Once I start cutting they will spring back up!! I will have to be careful there.

 

[splions]

Double blow-down! Wow. Is it hung up in other trees? If not, I'd probably start taking material off the tops of both trees working down toward the roots. Clearing limbs first then bucking the trunk in 5' sections. If it wants to go back to vertical you'll start to see that gradually as you work toward your way to the base. Also, you'll be working clear of most of the reach of the trees should any movement be a concern .

I would think this is the safest approach too.

 

[woodhog73]

If I was to cut the top tree first it would be about 20' up from the rootball. Up the hill where I can stand firmly on the ground.
I would not attempt to cut the top one while standing on the bottom trunk.

So what difference does it make ? If you cut the bottom your still 20 ' from the root ball ??

I'd remove the top first. The bottom is heavier , lower to the ground , center of gravity in it's favor ( unlike the top tree) and has the advantage of being the anchor. Cut the bottom first and the top may just stand up on you as soon as it's free from the bottom. Cut the top first and the bottom probably hasn't moved an inch.

Standing on the bottom trunk doesn't scare me. It's anchoring your top tree. It's not going anywhere. It's like tree climbing. Scary as it may be, you can climb any limb hundreds of feet above ground as long as the limb your on is the diameter of your wrist ( 4 inches ?) it's going to support you.

Fact. Not made up. Arborist 101


Like I said pictures are hard to go by. In the end you need to decide if you can safely remove it with the tools available.

If you can't a tree service will gladly charge you $400 to get it on the ground and bucked into 16 inch lengths no clean up. That's what we would charge.

I've got a skid steer I can use at my disposal along with a 1 ton pick up to help push, pull, etc where I need so if it were mine I'd tackle it completely different all together and it's always hard to say exactly from a picture

 

[billb3]

If it does stand back up you get to cut it down like a normal tree.
I wouldn't want a whole tree going back up, I'd want two trunks with no tops if possible.

And most definitely, watch it carefully.

 

[Poindexter]

From just the one picture I would want to walk around it a bit, probably sit down and lok at it from a couple different angles.

I think I would start by cutting the crowns off so if they do stand up i woild just have the two trunks to fell, so lower risk of having them hang up on something on the way down again.

Oncw the crowns are loose and processed out of the way, then deal with the trunks.

If decrowning looks like a bad idea i wuld be inclined to next consider cuttinf the upper trunk as close to the root ball as possible.

 

[Diabel]

The w

From just the one picture I would want to walk around it a bit, probably sit down and lok at it from a couple different angles.

I think I would start by cutting the crowns off so if they do stand up i woild just have the two trunks to fell, so lower risk of having them hang up on something on the way down again.

Oncw the crowns are loose and processed out of the way, then deal with the trunks.

If decrowning looks like a bad idea i wuld be inclined to next consider cuttinf the upper trunk as close to the root ball as possible.

The weekend looks promising. Cooler but wet. If it does not rain too much, I will get out there and get it done.
I wish I took more pics. But at about 25-30 feet up both trunks are kind of close to the ground, side by side. As suggested, I will take the crowns off and work my way to the rootball. I am pretty sure the trees will stand back up (as I have experienced before). Dropping 20' trunks will be pretty easy.

I will take pics of the aftermath.

 

[warno]

Can you get any trucks or equipment in there to try and roll the root ball to the side? Then you would at least have 2 trees side by side instead of over under. Long shot I know but seems pretty sketchy going after it the way it is.

 

[Kenster]

Whatever you do, please make sure no one is in the hole left by the root ball when you cut the trunk. The ball will likely snap back into place in the hole. A little boy was killed not too long ago in that exact scenario. He was playing in the hole. His dad cut the trunk and root ball/stump suddenly stood up and crushed the little boy.

 

[woodhog73]

Can you get any trucks or equipment in there to try and roll the root ball to the side?

Exactly sometimes you just need bigger equipment. That's why tree service folks exist.

It's for sure a unique scenario and potentially dangerous. On the other hand it's fire wood. After 25 plus years of cutting timber I'm sure I've seen your predicament somewhere along the line. Given all the time processing how to best remove it if I had that scenario on my property it would be in my stack drying by now. Not because I'm eager to do so but because my wife would be yelling at me to go cut it up. More firewood, less mess in the yard and woods, whatever. Just be careful take your time. If your doubting if you can safely remove it then consider other options.

Post some pics when done .

 

[Diabel]

Exactly sometimes you just need bigger equipment. That's why tree service folks exist.

It's for sure a unique scenario and potentially dangerous. On the other hand it's fire wood. After 25 plus years of cutting timber I'm sure I've seen your predicament somewhere along the line. Given all the time processing how to best remove it if I had that scenario on my property it would be in my stack drying by now. Not because I'm eager to do so but because my wife would be yelling at me to go cut it up. More firewood, less mess in the yard and woods, whatever. Just be careful take your time. If your doubting if you can safely remove it then consider other options.

Post some pics when done .

I will post pics as they are always appreciated here.
Cheers

 

[Diabel]

Whatever you do, please make sure no one is in the hole left by the root ball when you cut the trunk. The ball will likely snap back into place in the hole. A little boy was killed not too long ago in that exact scenario. He was playing in the hole. His dad cut the trunk and root ball/stump suddenly stood up and crushed the little boy.

I hear you. No human, dog etc will be around when this thing springs back up. A mouse or a squirrel maybe!!

 

[Diabel]

It cooled down considerably today. I decided to head over a check out the blowdowns again, and take more pics. Just in case loaded up some tools and off I go.