Is 272xp enough saw for milling

[Nealm66]

If you end up working late, you can see the sparks of it hitting some kind of grit in the cambium.

 

[SpaceBus]

Trees come out of the ground, so usually they pick up the hard solids in the bark on the way out. Any minerals in the cambium would not be solid and instead dissolved in water. The bark of some trees is also just much harder than the sap and heartwood.

 

[Nealm66]

Man, just be careful chipping bark off if you use an ax or hatchet. To me that’s the most dangerous part of the journey. Also, an ax is safer and less fatigue for some reason. At least for me

 

[Diabel]

Man, just be careful chipping bark off if you use an ax or hatchet. To me that’s the most dangerous part of the journey. Also, an ax is safer and less fatigue for some reason. At least for me

I was thinking of using one of those flat blade ice chippers that you use in driveways.

 

[Diabel]

The bar and chain came in today. 36”, 0.063 (carleton chain) as per @SpaceBus suggestion. Thank you. I suppose with this gauge thing you have to pay attention when buying. I will look for a 0.050 ripping chain for my 25” stihl bar. And it will not be oregon. Things are slowly coming together. The mask will be coming in this week. Next will be to source out some of those steel square rails, and i suppose those steel plates to hand the rails on.

 

[Nealm66]

View attachment 271887
The bar and chain came in today. 36”, 0.063 (carleton chain) as per @SpaceBus suggestion. Thank you. I suppose with this gauge thing you have to pay attention when buying. I will look for a 0.050 ripping chain for my 25” stihl bar. And it will not be oregon. Things are slowly coming together. The mask will be coming in this week. Next will be to source out some of those steel square rails, and i suppose those steel plates to hand the rails on.

You don’t need the steel plate. Just use a 1x3 and a bit longer than the width of log. Probably 3 for your lengths. Flatten out a spot in the middle of the log just wide enough and deep enough to get a good screw hold and elevate or lower to match your ends and provide support. Make sure all 3 are level horizontally and don’t use too long of screws in the middle so to keep from having to drop down too much. After first cut, just lay your rails on the flat you made to clean up imperfections if there is any. Might have to screw along side the rails to keep them from walking, I have to cus mine are really light

 

[Nealm66]

Use your rails on every cut. Don’t just use the flat you made. Keep your rails past and before to eliminate dovetail.you can slide them if they’re short

 

[Nealm66]

And don’t forget to not look at the beautiful wood grain

 

[Diabel]

Use your rails on every cut. Don’t just use the flat you made. Keep your rails past and before to eliminate dovetail.you can slide them if they’re short

Interesting. So, I should categorically not use a ladder. It would be so easy. I have a brand new heavy duty aluminum one.

 

[Nealm66]

I used a 16’ for a while. Just a pita compared to the rails. Especially for longer cuts like you want. Try to imagine the sag in the middle

 

[Nealm66]

I’m 100% serious about not looking at the grain. Ruined a lot of good boards by seeing beautiful grain and slabs are a pita. And heavy!

 

[Diabel]

I used a 16’ for a while. Just a pita compared to the rails. Especially for longer cuts like you want. Try to imagine the sag in the middle

I have watched guys support the ladder in several spots in the middle.

 

[Nealm66]

I have watched guys support the ladder in several spots in the middle.

I’m not saying it can’t be done, I did it at first. Just so easy and accurate with the rails and no length limit

 

[Diabel]

Once this covid thing eases I will visit a metal shop.

 

[Nealm66]

My neighbors are using some angle iron. I actually think it works better but heavy!

 

[Nealm66]

I should also say it’s a good idea to use about 3 4x4’s for your length. Level everything up for your last board making rips and shim the middle to avoid waste on last board

 

[SpaceBus]

Granberg makes a slick rail system. I considered it a while back.

 

[Nealm66]

My neighbor was saying he’s elevating his log , I think he said after the outside cuts, using a bigger John Deere with forks. I told him to let me know next time they mill. Wouldn’t surprise me if they have improved on what I showed them. Curious to see how they elevate. They’ve just about completed 4 or 5 20 to 26 ft trailers with beams and 2” thick top boards. Went too wide on the top boards if you ask me . I suspect they will cup but who knows. Looks incredible with the wide boards though. I’ll try to get some pics when I go down

 

[TerryH]

Another option that might make economical sense is to find and pay someone local with a portable sawmill.

TE

As Logosol says, "some saw for the enjoyment", and if that is an influence, then hiring out maybe not so much?

 

[Diabel]

I think I am ready for milling. I will order a second ripping chain and that Grenberg grinding jig. We barely had any snow until the beginning of Jan then few storms rolled in. One massive one 18” overnight. It will be a while before it all melts.

 

[EbS-P]

A question that popped into my head is what is the best drive sprocket to use while milling with a 660. I’m guessing teeth like an 5 or 6 T as chain speed is less important than engine rpm??? Happy to hear any thoughts.

evan

**edit went the wrong way with teeth few is slower chain right
** replaced more with fewer.

 

[Diabel]

I could be wrong, but I think it is the opposite. A twelve speed bike comes to mind

 

[EbS-P]

Have to think about it like the front sprocket not the rear. Smaller gear less chain speed less load on engine. I think I’m right now.

 

[brenndatomu]

Drive sprocket larger/more teeth = more speed/less power

 

[Nealm66]

I would run a 7 tooth. That’s what they typically come with and works fine