Jotul F500- Will it do the job?

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Jan 25, 2017
35
New Hampshire
Hi everyone,


I'm new to the forum and have been reading through a number of threads here trying to get some advice on my current situation; hoping for a little help. I just purchased a new Jotul F3 cb to heat the lower level of my house (a little larger than 1,200 sq ft) and also some supplemental heat for the upstairs level (larger than 1,600 sqft). Currently there is a pellet stove in the middle of the upper level (Front outer wall of the house), but we tend to have to run it hard to keep up the weather we see here in NH and the goal of having the wood stove in the lower level is to avoid having to do that all winter. The F3 cb was sold to me by the dealer with the reassurance that "it would do the job fine, and might even be too big for the space" (of course I believed them, I mean, they are a stove shop shouldn't they know?... and yes they did inspect the space prior to the sale).

However, after installing the stove and doing research on the F3 cb it definitely seems to be too small for what I am looking for, and doesn't have anywhere near as long a burn time as I want (I would like to be able to burn through most of the night).

Here's what the lower level of my home looks like- just over 1,200 sqft 80% finished space with new windows, insulation, drywall etc. However, the flooring in the lower level is all stone tile and the unfinished space (20% of the lower level) is foundation cement wall and cement floor, there is also a large staircase in the same room as the stove. I am assuming that the stove is struggling to heat because of the cold floor and walls in the basement, and the loss of heat up the stairs. I am struggling to get the thermometer in the basement where the stove is located to exceed 67 degree F running the stove at a consistent 500+ degrees F, even in weather in the 30's (not very cold for Jan-Mar in NH).

During some of my research I came across the Jotul F500, and I am trying to see if that would be an adequate stove or if it would be too large for what I need (or too small); keeping in mind my future plan was to install three floor vents from the basement up into 3 bedrooms located on the floors above to allow the heat in the lower level to add some supplemental heat to those rooms that are further from the pellet stove on the second floor.

Overall here are the goals with the wood stove:
-Heat lower level adequately
-Give supplemental heat (along with existing pellet stove) for upper level
-Long burn times to last through most of the night (larger fire box)
-A stove that is easy to control the temp so I don't burn myself out of the lower level while its firing

I am wondering if this stove would be too big, too small, or if I would be able to make it work to heat the way I was hoping the F3 would...Thanks, I appreciate any feedback.
 
I love my Jotul F500, but I do not think it is enough stove for your application. Relatively close by to you is the Woodstock Soapstone Company. Take a very hard look at the Ideal Steel. Or maybe the Progress.
 
Even with the second story being in the 60's with the pellet stove on low the F500 wouldn't be enough? I'm concerned the F600 (which I've had experiences with in the past) will make the room it's located in unbearable.
 
Take a drive to Woodstock, see the showroom and talk to them.
 
A real advantage of the Woodstock option is that you will get both more potential output and more controllability due to the catalytic design.
 
I'd give a close look to the Jotul F55 if your dealer will take back the F3cb in trade.
 
Since no one has asked - Where are you measuring the temperature of 500 on the stove?
 
[Hearth.com] Jotul F500- Will it do the job?
 
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Right where Jotul recommends measuring it; right or left side between the top mounted stove pipe and edge of stove.

It was worth asking as there have been numerous people measuring in the wrong spot and running the stove too low. My Oslo heats my 2,000 sq ft raised ranch fairly easily.
 
Yes I know what you've mean; I've seen threads of people using pipe thermometers on the stove top as well!

Any trouble or dislikes with the F500 you have?

My only complaints are about the front door. It's essentially unusable because of the ash mess it creates. Other than that, it's been a great heater.
 
That's the same problem I'm running into with the F3... but the F500 has a side door correct?

How's he burn time over night, and any problems controlling temp? The F3 is either barley 400 or almost uncontrollable.
 
Two "negatives" I have seen with the Oslo . . . the aforementioned ash building up and dumping out of the front door which means most folks tend to like this stove better when they predominantly use the side loading door . . . and the air control can get a bit sticky at times (although I have noticed that frequent cleaning of the ash on the front lip helps along with a liberal application of graphite powder once or twice a season.)

The stove has no issues going all night long . . . but don't expect a raging fire if you load it up by 9:30 and then wake up at 5 . . . you can however expect to see enough coals so that you can easily get the fire going again by throwing on some kindling or small splits. A lot depends on the draft, quality of wood and ambient temps outdoors . . . when the temps are in the 30s or 40s it is much easier to end up with more coals vs. a zero degree night.

Controlling the temp is also pretty easy . . . but again I find the secret is not so much in the stove, but rather in the fuel . . . knowing when to reload, when not to reload, knowing how much to load and when to close the air control. If I put too much wood in the stove, reload too soon, use the primo wood when I should use the "regular" wood and fail to close the air on time the stove can get pretty hot . . . but if I pay attention to when I am loading it, what I am loading it with and when I am controlling the air the stove usually provides good, steady heat reliably.

I have had a few times each year when it starts to get a little hotter than I prefer to see . . . at which time I control it by using the tinfoil trick on the incoming air.
 
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That's the same problem I'm running into with the F3... but the F500 has a side door correct?

How's he burn time over night, and any problems controlling temp? The F3 is either barley 400 or almost uncontrollable.

The F500 does not like to burn without a good bed of coals underneath. Starting with a good full load of well seasoned hardwood, eight hours over night is easy. Nine can be more or less counted on. 10 hours may allow a restart, but it will be pretty much like a cold stove startup.

The side door is much cleaner than any front loader I have experienced. You can load from the front, but it is very, very messy.

I also much appreciate the large and effective ash pan.

Controllability is on par with other modern EPA non-cat stoves... poor. To burn clean it must get up to full temp to engage the secondaries, then must burn through the coaling cycle so that you do not end up with a stove full of coals. This size of the load is about your only control - a smaller load will have a shorter cycle. You can also kind of game the system by extending the coaling cycle by adding a single stick or two.
 
Great info there. Making my decision difficult now. Soap stone seems like an efficient option, but I've had no experience with the stoves and it's an expensive gamble if I don't like it. Very used to cast iron, just looking for longer burn time that the small F3. Thanks!
 
My house is set up like yours, 1200sf finished w/o basement and 1860 main floor. I heat my house with the PH. Does all the heating except on the cold nights 15 or lower. I'd rather have the IS but it wouldn't fit. They both have similar heating capacity but the IS can burn low and long in milder weather.
I easily get overnight burns, I usually don't have to refill until I've been up a couple of hours.
 
Won't the F55 be too much for my application; isn't it designed as more of a whole house heater similar to the F600?

Not a lot more than the F500. You control the amount of heat and duration by the amount of fuel loaded and air provided to the fire. The F55 is a convective stove so the radiant heat will be less.
 
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Okay, forgive me for sounding like a newbie... but how easy is it to control the heat output, and how likely is it that it burns me out of the room; being that it has a heating capacity of 2,500 sqft? Not really sure how a convection stove and the standard cast iron stove differ in heating ability.
 
Like he said, you control the heat output with the amount of fuel input, or by cramming foil into the air intake.;lol Most non-cat stoves are going to be like your F3. Once it gets going, it's Burn Baby Burn, so you don't load more BTU's than you want in the next few hours. If you want better control of the burn with the stove, you want a catalytic stove. Go to Woodstock. Buy the ticket. Take the ride.
 
Okay, forgive me for sounding like a newbie... but how easy is it to control the heat output, and how likely is it that it burns me out of the room; being that it has a heating capacity of 2,500 sqft? Not really sure how a convection stove and the standard cast iron stove differ in heating ability.

All secondary combustion style stoves are going to have high "swing temps". So it's possible any of the larger ones will make the room hotter than you desire. If you're looking for something more controllable, you should consider a cat stove.
 
...Not really sure how a convection stove and the standard cast iron stove differ in heating ability
What you're calling "standard" would be called a radiant stove. A convective stove gives off more of its heat as hot air. Radiant heat is what can give you that feeling of being cooked by the stove.