Just purchased a new P68 to replace our Earth Stove

[EarthStove]

Earth Stove room blower fan motor is sticking and because of previous burn pot issues with clinkers decided to move on after almost 20 years with the earth stove.

Quick question before I pick up and install the P68. I forgot to ask:

Does this have an auto ignition?

Our house is a 2 story 2200sqft house. Should be OK and not overpowered? The earth stove is 50k btu and mostly does well until into the single digits and below 0.

I don't have an OAK. Might install one. The stove pipe gets LOTS of wind and we have to shut down because of smoke. Will an OAK help equalize pressure on that side of the house and possibility eliminate the need to shutdown in winds higher then 15 mph?


Thanks!

 

[alternativeheat]

Something like this vent cap should eliminate your wind direction problems ( there are many different configurations available). And yes an OAK helps too, along with lowering drafts in your house caused by the stove sucking in outside air that replaces the air it uses..

Best of luck with your P68 and let us know how it does for you ! You will have some extra horse power with the 68, as long as you don't mind feeding it to get it. And it will be perfectly controllable on output, especially in room Temp Auto, where it will shut down when up to temp and auto relight when heat is called for. So , yes it has auto ignition. You're gonna love it, I'd say a P61 would have covered your needs though but much depends on house condition and layout etc.

 

[Harman Lover 007]

Enjoy the new beast. You'll be surprised how much heat it cranks out when you need it...

 

[bags]

Yes, The P68 has auto ignition. The stove will basically run itself and keep it at whatever temp you pick. It will not over power or over heat your place. I'm doing 2,350 SQ FT and a two story with mine. They will provide all the heat you need even in the cold. cold or at least mine does so without any problems.

All you have to do is pick the temp and it will maintain your home around that. It is easy to clean, maintain, and operate. The P68 with give plenty of warmth both thru the blower and radiant heat. Good choice! Get it hooked up and post some pics. We dig pics around here.

 

[bags]

The OAK is a must have in my opinion. Well worth the extra effort installing and little cost to add. The termination cap Alternative showed above will eliminate wind problems. As he mentioned the OAK will help also in several ways. Now I just saw where Alternative answered all your questions. I do not have my glasses on so.......

The P68 is a great stove and you will like it a lot. This is my 3rd winter running mine and have zero regrets.

 

[bogieb]

Congratulations on your new stove! There are several ways to set the temperature / heat settings, so once you figure out what works best for your layout, you shouldn't be overheated (warmer near the stove, cooler away from it, but controllable). I'm a firm believer that having more BTU's than you think you need is a good thing. Now, if you had 900 sq/ft, I would say you would be better off with a smaller stove, but for your area, it will be good to have the extra grunt if needed.

My exhausts face the prevailing winter winds. The basement stove, for which the exhaust is about 2' of the ground has a turbo or jet termination (1st pic). That works fine for that stove but it also has two 45's and about 5 feet of pipe between those elbows so I don't know if that also mitigates wind. The installers actually put that one on so I didn't even have to think about it.

My main floor stove's exhaust is about 4.5' above grade level, with basically just a straight out pipe (not quite, but close enough, plus it is short) and I have elected to put a 45* elbow as the termination (2nd pic). I turn that down and to the left (as looking at it) as the wind often comes at just a slight angle from the left. Also, those shown by others will work just fine too.

I am a proponent of OAK's but don't know if that would help with the affects of prevailing wind - the termination you chose will be the big bang there.

 

[EarthStove]

Thanks for the posts guys. Put my mind at ease after spending this kind of cash on a hunk of metal! LOL

Here is a link to my stove pipe thread. You can see that we used to use that same pipe termination pictures first. It did nothing for the wind. Sometimes we get 50 to 60 mph winds against the house here. Though rare it does happen. This year we had 3 straight days of sustained around 20 with gusts into the 40s - Brutal. No stove burning.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...ion-about-door-seals-now-pics-included.53670/


The new setup is the second picture now. From the inside it's straight out to that T. It sits at about 17" OC on the earth stove. The Harman is 10" on center. The Harman output is also in the center and 3" pipe and the Earth Stove is on the right side and 4" pipe. So I think I will have a reducer, and at least 2 45s to get it up and out. I may have to either replace or cut (if I can cut it) the existing pipe to shorten it. Come to think of it, I don't think I will be able to cut it since the 45 elbow will attach to it.

 

[alternativeheat]

Well I debated all this wind direction business when we bought the p61. I decided to vent 26 ft up through the existing chimney. Like you we can have 40mph sustained prevailing winds on that wall in mid winter and 60 plus following up after a storm. So my thought was up to where I could have a 360 degree lid. And I'm glad I did it because of the install location. Had it been south facing ( back of the house) like my basement stove will be when I install that maybe next year then I wouldn't have the concern .

Anyway, in your case, it's good if that vertical is 4". Do an OAK,it will help equalize pressure in high winds. Add a turbo at the termination if that doesn't work out. And ultimately if even that doesn't work out, then gostraight up and clear that roof. Instructions are in the manual on clearances of a pitched roof if it comes down to that. You don't have to clear the peak but you will need a 360 deg cap, be it mushroom or screened lid etc. That a chore for next season if so !! And it may not be needed.

 

[EarthStove]

Yes, I have thought about taking it over the ridgeline if needed. But, man talk about a ton of money in more pipe! If the new stove has issues (with or without) the OAK we might be forced into that but I think I will give that turbo end a try first

 

[alternativeheat]

Yes, I have thought about taking it over the ridgeline if needed. But, man talk about a ton of money in more pipe! If the new stove has issues (with or without) the OAK we might be forced into that but I think I will give that turbo end a try first

Not sure you would have to clear the ridge but just go straight up to clear the roof. The standard I think is a horizontal measurement from termination of 10' to the pitch of the roof if you are not clearing the ridge.. Even so it is costly,yes.

 

[EarthStove]

I think I calculated about another 800 or so to clear the soffit and roof.

 

[salt & battery]

Something like this vent cap should eliminate your wind direction problems ( there are many different configurations available). And yes an OAK helps too, along with lowering drafts in your house caused by the stove sucking in outside air that replaces the air it uses..

Best of luck with your P68 and let us know how it does for you ! You will have some extra horse power with the 68, as long as you don't mind feeding it to get it. And it will be perfectly controllable on output, especially in room Temp Auto, where it will shut down when up to temp and auto relight when heat is called for. So , yes it has auto ignition. You're gonna love it, I'd say a P61 would have covered your needs though but much depends on house condition and layout etc.
View attachment 189915

that vent cap did not work for me but the winds were up to 40 mph had to jump the low pressure vacuum switch to keep it running then I moved it

 

[alternativeheat]

I think I calculated about another 800 or so to clear the soffit and roof.

Ya it's expensive stuff and you have a pretty high run there.

 

[bogieb]

You might try aiming the vent cap to the side instead of straight down. I believe it changes the dynamics of the way the wind interacts with the house and thus the cap. That's why my 45 for my main floor stove is pointed southeast (if the ground was south)

 

[EarthStove]

Well I have another bit of a dilemma at the moment. The inside stuff ha got to be worked out very soon. I am going to try to pick up the stove either Tuesday or Wednesday. I'd love to install it this week, however there is the little issue of the pipe coming out of the existing wall thimble. It's sticking out into the room about 16 to 18" or so. I can either tap into this by moving the new stove forward A LOT or remove this pipe and replace it with a much shorter piece. This will require digging out the silicon and remove it from the T outside. This week is going to be pretty brutal. Wednesday highs in the low 20s and lows in the low teens, maybe even upper single digits! Perfect timing! AYE

What ever I do does not have to be a permanent solution since I still want to replace the wall thimble with the new one that has the OAK built in. But this will have to wait to warmer temps.

We have marble as the base for our stove it is 4ft x 4ft . If I use the existing pipe I will have to probably add something to the carpet in front of the marble because the stove will then be partially sitting on the carpet.

 

[alternativeheat]

You can get a short pipe, I think I have a 12 " in 4" diameter, that hooks to an adapter down to 3" to fit the stove outlet as I recall ( maybe it's 18", not measuring now but I remember that i had a little 6" piece I didn't use and returned to the stove shop) What about height off the floor for the connection, are the two stoves different in that way ?

I would think a wire wheel on a drill would make short work of removing the old silicone. A little acetone shower might help LOL ! You only need it so clean, if the pieces will twist together you're good, especially outdoors ( do you even need silicone outdoors ?).

FWIW, it was a 20deg day when we installed our stove, took out the coal burner, gave everything a sweep out, dropped the liner( actually stuffed it in from bottom up). Doors open around here, central heat turned way down. But by sunset we were firing it off.

 

[EarthStove]

Yes, we are at 17" OC height right now where the pipe goes out of the house. The P68 is 10" OC height....So I need to go up an then over.

 

[alternativeheat]

Yes, we are at 17" OC height right now where the pipe goes out of the house. The P68 is 10" OC height....So I need to go up an then over.

Or raise the stove/hearth.

 

[bogieb]

I had to do some creative stuff because my previous stove was a corner install and with a pretty good difference in the stove exhaust height. I've got the stove on 1" blocks, and then angled pipe using tow 90's. Got a pretty high ELV for such a short run (only another 2' straight out), but it works.

 

[EarthStove]

The earth stove output is HIGHER then the Harman.

I just picked the stove up and am trying to get it into the house. Once that is complete I will see if I can figure all these parts out.


Right now I plan to remove the 24" straight that goes to the outside T. It will be replaced with I hope either a 12" or a 6" pipe. I have 2 45s that I hope will get me up to the height I need and over to the new straight pipe. If this does not work I don't have many other options except move all of the pipe and the hole in the wall. I want the stove to still be centered in the room. It's gonna be close!

Will update later tonight. (I hope.) LOL

 

[alternativeheat]

The earth stove output is HIGHER then the Harman.

I just picked the stove up and am trying to get it into the house.

Will update later tonight. (I hope.) LOL

Not a whole lot of pellet stoves around hotter than a P68, I'm surprised.

45s will stand the stove out a bit from the wall.

 

[Tonyray]

Using an OAK,
my Outside pipe[avatar] faces the wind.. No house on that side to break any wind conditions but we never have any problems with smoke or whatever..

 

[EarthStove]

Not a whole lot of pellet stoves around hotter than a P68, I'm surprised.

45s will stand the stove out a bit from the wall.

What I meant was the earth stove is HIGHER in height with it's output it's 18" on center from the ground vs. 10" OC with the harman.

 

[EarthStove]

Does anyone know if I can have a sealed (silicon) joint inside the wall thimble? 6" pipe is a bit too short and the 12" is too long.

 

[EarthStove]

Forget about the above question. We managed to make this work with the 12" pipe. Not ideal because it's like a foot from the wall but it works.

I will actually have to fabricate some steel tubing tomorrow so that it lifts the stove off the ground exactly 1" This gives us the lift we need to make the two 45s reach the height of the existing hole in the house.

My wife wouldn't go for the blocks under it so I will weld some 1" square tube and that should do it. More work and will have to paint but in the end, she will be happy.

Pictures to follow.