Lange #6302a BTU Rating?

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I have an old Lang 6302a that I am thinking about replacing with something new.

I know how it heats our beach cabin, but have no idea what that means for the BTU's.
Does anybody here know the BTU rating that Lang put on these old 6302's?

I'd also like some advice on what to buy. I'm not into sheet metal or modern looks.
I once had a Morso, and have heard that they are even better these days, but I
don't have any experience. Same with Jøtul.

Any advice or suggestions?
 
Not sure, but if I had to guess I would put the output around 40,000 btu/hr.. It can be pushed higher with both air vents opened. Is the old Lange in bad condition or in need of new innards like a baffle and burn plates?

Morso makes some nice stoves. The 2B classic is a bit smaller at 35,000 btu but might get the job done. In Jotul I would look at the F400. There is also the Hampton H300 that you might like. It's made close by in Delta, BC.
 
Not sure, but if I had to guess I would put the output around 40,000 btu/hr.. It can be pushed higher with both air vents opened. Is the old Lange in bad condition or in need of new innards like a baffle and burn plates?

Morso makes some nice stoves. The 2B classic is a bit smaller at 35,000 btu but might get the job done. In Jotul I would look at the F400. There is also the Hampton H300 that you might like. It's made close by in Delta, BC.

Thanks. Our stove i in great shape, except for the top baffle, which is sagging.
 
The baffle is expensive to replace, but a lot less than a new stove. If your stove is in good condition and you like it then I would bite the bullet and replace the baffle ($400). The Lange is a great stove and it may be worth the invest to extend its life another 10-20 yrs.. You might also want to order side burn plates if they are showing signs of age. That said, if the goal is for a cleaner burn and a bit less wood consumption, then a more modern stove can do the job.

http://www.woodmanspartsplus.com/68/catalogs/Wood-and-Coal-Stove-Manufacturers-Cross-Reference.html
 
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The baffle is expensive to replace, but a lot less than a new stove. I would bite the bullet and replace it. The Lange is a great stove and if yours is in good condition and you like it, then invest in extending its life another 10-20 yrs.

You are right, this is a great stove! And it looks great too.

Right now the baffle is a little inconvenience, as the sag means I can not let the ash build up for a long time before removing - and it means that I can not slide the shutter open & closed. The shutter is always closed, and those 2 pieces that stand upright in the back (left & right of the shutter) are lose enough that I could remove them if necessary.

Besides this small inconvenience, do you think it is safe with this sagging baffle? To me it "seems" safe, but what do I know?
 
The sag will only get worse and the baffle may burn out soon. As it deteriorates the flame path will not be as designed. If the baffle starts pulling away from the rear or sides, or if a hole develops, direct flame may bypass the baffle and overheat those areas where the flame is bypassing. That can cause spot overheating of the stove in those areas which could permanently damage it. Personally I would replace the baffle now rather than risk that happening. It's unlikely it will last another season if the sag is already pronounced.
 
The sag will only get worse and the baffle may burn out soon. As it deteriorates the flame path will not be as designed. If the baffle starts pulling away from the rear or sides, or if a hole develops, direct flame may bypass the baffle and overheat those areas where the flame is bypassing. That can cause spot overheating of the stove in those areas which could permanently damage it. Personally I would replace the baffle now rather than risk that happening. It's unlikely it will last another season if the sag is already pronounced.

Have you ever replaced a baffle? It appears that I would strap the upper part of the stove, remove the 2 screws then tap the underside of the top - upward, until it pops off. Does that sound about right?

If it is somewhat correct, will removing the top of the stove effect the cement running down top to bottom on each corner?
 
I haven't replace a Lange baffle before. On many stoves you don't need to pull the lid in order to remove. You tap it upward until one side is higher than the other. Then drop the low side past the side supports and take it out of the door diagonally. Not sure if you can do this with the Lange. Maybe ask Woodmans when ordering the baffle.
 
I haven't replace a Lange baffle before. On many stoves you don't need to pull the lid in order to remove. You tap it upward until one side is higher than the other. Then drop the low side past the side supports and take it out of the door diagonally. Not sure if you can do this with the Lange. Maybe ask Woodmans when ordering the baffle.

Good idea.

I found a guy on eBay who makes them out of 1/4" steel. I wonder if that would be better than this thin cast iron Lange used? Any idea?
 
Good idea.

I found a guy on eBay who makes them out of 1/4" steel. I wonder if that would be better than this thin cast iron Lange used? Any idea?


My mistake, the non factory baffle is 1/2" steel.
 
Does it have ribbing or stiffeners to suppress warping. Got a link?
 
Does it have ribbing or stiffeners to suppress warping. Got a link?

No, I think he makes them flat, no ribs or stiffeners. They'd have to be welded on and would be a weak link anyway. I think it's just 1/2" steel.
 
The Lange baffle has some stiff ribs cast in for a reason.
 
The Lange baffle has some stiff ribs cast in for a reason.

I thought about that. Maybe because the cast iron on the baffle is so thin?
I've heard this is a pretty common problem with them.
 
The current baffle is how old? Original?
 
The current baffle is how old? Original?

Yes, original. light use 1980 - 2013. 2014 to present 24 hr a day 7 to 8 mos a year.
 
That speaks well of the original baffle design.