Length of Chimney

[Typ0]

What is better a longer run of pipe or a shorter run? I am reinstalling my chimney and am wondering if I want it to be 144" or 120".

 

[gzecc]

Longer, but that still may give you problems it there are other issues.

 

[mellow]

15 foot is the usual minimum, what does your manual call for?

 

[Woody Stover]

Is the stove to be installed in a house? Chimney straight up through the ceiling? The only height requirement I see in the linked PDF is on page 20, in the mobile home section. It says 8' but that is with an outside air kit, so that may reduce the required height from what you would need in a tight house, without outside air? Me, I would make the chimney as tall as possible to get good draft even if it's not real cold out. 15' should be enough for almost any stove, in case you get a different stove later. I would try to keep it under 5' out the roof so I wouldn't have to brace it but I would brace it if I had to, to get 15'. Of course, you must comply with the 3-2-10' rule at the top of the stack...

 

[Typ0]

I don't understand why the chimney pipe manual says to make it as short as possible but the people here seem to be saying longer lengths are better.

 

[Woody Stover]

I don't understand why the chimney pipe manual says to make it as short as possible but the people here seem to be saying longer lengths are better.

Maybe they are saying to minimize horizontal runs? Got a link to the manual you are referring to?

 

[Typ0]

http://www.selkirkcorp.com/supervent/lowes/downloads/SCSPR Installation Instructions - Lowes.pdf

2nd paragraph of pre-installation guidelines on page 4:

Plan the installation of your appliance and chimney in such a way that
both your chimney and your stove pipe run is as short and straight
as possible. By having too long and or multiple bend installations
you can reduce system draft which can affect the operation, and or
performance of your appliance and or chimney system. The chimney
should be located within the building so as to avoid cutting or
altering load bearing members such as joists, rafters, studs, etc. If
you require to cut or alter an existing load bearing member, special
reframing methods are required which often include doubling of
adjacent members.

 

[Woody Stover]

2nd paragraph of pre-installation guidelines on page 4: "By having too long and or multiple bend installations you can reduce system draft which can affect the operation, and or performance of your appliance and or chimney system."

Yeah, the wording isn't real concise but I'm thinking "too long" is referring to horizontal runs, as opposed to "too high" which would be total stack height. A taller stack is definitely going to draw better, so I would go with at least 144" vertical rise, but more would be better.

 

[Typ0]

OK. That's what I am going with a buddy is on the way and we are going to do this job ...

 

[kennyp2339]

Typo - what stove are you installing, certain stoves have minimum requirements for chimney heights, but as other members have said 15ft straight up seems to be the minimum standard with the majority of stoves

 

[maple1]

Run usually equals sideways. With rise equaling upways.

Usually...

 

[Typ0]

It ended up being a 14' rise from the ceiling straight up out the roof...the stove is 10' below. I am going to post a pic to get some input on how to configure the black pipe running to the stove.

 

[Typ0]

Here is where the stove is. I am still wondering if the bend angles should be just where the pipe exits the stove and enters the flue. I also was going to remove the damper ... but now I am wondering if a better choice would be to put it right at the point where the black pipe enters the flue. Then I could just pop the pin out for cleaning easily and remove the pipe.

 

[Woody Stover]

wondering if the bend angles should be just where the pipe exits the stove and enters the flue. I also was going to remove the damper ... but now I am wondering if a better choice would be to put it right at the point where the black pipe enters the flue. Then I could just pop the pin out for cleaning easily and remove the pipe.

So you've got better than 15' from the stove top to the top of the stack? That should work fine. It's better to have a straight rise out of the stove, with the bend at the top. I would take out that section of adjustable elbow (I don't like that stuff) and try to put two 45s up there instead of two 90s. It can be tough to get the lengths to match up though...
Yeah, I like having the damper at the bottom just above the stove top, where I can remove it easily, like you said. Another thing; Does the distance from the drywall meet the maker's required clearance to combustibles?

 

[mellow]

I hope you are installing doublewall, that looks to close for singlewall, but sometimes pictures are hard to read.

 

[Typ0]

It's actually not that close...from the back corner of the stove to where the drywall starts is 14" which is the minimal clearance.

The only place there is a problem is right at the ceiling where you see that 2x6 beam I put up. Well the stove pipe adapter is single wall that goes into the flue and right at that spot it's a little closer to the beam than code will allow. Not sure how I am going to deal with this either as that is a part of the kit to install the flue.