Let's discuss my DW 2479 non-CAT

[BJE80]

So we just put up a cabin on our land in northern Wisconsin. We worked with a local fireplace/wood stove shop. They suggested the 2479 non-CAT for my place and they took care of everything including installation.

Now I come on here to read about log splitters and come to find out so many people have problems and hate the stove the experts suggested for me. Did I make a mistake? Why would the experts suggest something that so many people are having problems with?

I also keep reading about this Everburn system on here. I read my manual and there is nothing referenced about an everburn system. What is this about?

Here are some pictures of my set-up. So far, works great from my eyes but this is my first wood stove so I would not know any difference. And, other than one cold night we really have not used it.

So prepare me for the worse. Gulp.

Chimmney from the outside.

 

[fox9988]

"Why would the experts suggest something that so many people are having problems with?"

Because, that's what he sells.? I have no expeience with DW, sorry. If you're stuck with it, you may never have any problems and learn to love it. If not you'll be back to stove shopping. Nice cabin.

 

[Jags]

Please keep in mind that there are others that have had good success with the stove. The operations appear to have as much to do with the install as the stove itself. If your dealer knows all of this and has installed it for peak performance, you may just find yourself in love with this stove.

If they didn't, well.......

(and for the record it does have the neverburn technology)

 

[BJE80]

(and for the record it does have the neverburn technology)

Tell me more please. I know nothing about it and the manual says nothing.

 

[Jags]

Tell me more please. I know nothing about it and the manual says nothing.

The everburn tech is a refractory chamber above the burn box that is used as the "re-burner" (unlike tubes or a cat) for the high efficiencies required by the EPA. The chamber is known to have a problem with longevity and it is also known to be a biotch to get working correctly if the stars are not aligned properly. Many posts have been made on the inability of some users to get it to work as advertised.

This is not meant to scare you. Some users have had success. Some not so much.

 

[PapaDave]

I believe the flashing install is wrong. The bottom should OVERlap the shingles, not the opposite. Looks nice, but it's an invite for water problems.
The shop is going to push you into what he sells. Chevy dealer won't try to sell you a Ford. Sales is not always about what's good for the customer, but what makes the most money for the seller.
Having said that, looks like a nice install and a nice house. Open floor plan?
How's the firewood supply? Dry?

 

[BrowningBAR]

As others have stated, a sales rep is not necessary an expert in his field. The Everburn design in your stove is a system that has given many, many folks a hassle. It is the reburn technology that Vermont Casting uses, which owned Dutchwest, which is owned by Monessen Hearth Systems Co.

The main issues with the design was that it would either take off like an uncontrollable rocket or smolder the wood into a smokey mess. I have never used a stove that used the Everburn system, but it has a long, documented history of frustration.

That being said, there are those that get the stove running well for them. I would recommend a good stove thermometer for it and make sure your supply of wood is dry. Not seasoned, but dry.

That's a nice looking cabin and I hope the stove works out well for you.

 

[BJE80]

The everburn tech is a refractory chamber above the burn box that is used as the "re-burner" (unlike tubes or a cat) for the high efficiencies required by the EPA. The chamber is known to have a problem with longevity and it is also known to be a biotch to get working correctly if the stars are not aligned properly. Many posts have been made on the inability of some users to get it to work as advertised.

This is not meant to scare you. Some users have had success. Some not so much.

How do I know or what should I look for to determine if it is working properly? How will I know when or if the everburn thing goes kaput?



Sorry for the basic questions.

 

[BJE80]

I believe the flashing install is wrong. The bottom should OVERlap the shingles, not the opposite. Looks nice, but it's an invite for water problems.
The shop is going to push you into what he sells. Chevy dealer won't try to sell you a Ford. Sales is not always about what's good for the customer, but what makes the most money for the seller.
Having said that, looks like a nice install and a nice house. Open floor plan?
How's the firewood supply? Dry?

I will look at the flashing when I get up there this weekend.

Wood supply is coming along. Had a bunch drying since April that is getting pretty decent. Also been getting a few standing dead around the property that is dry. Will still probably need to buy some more dry stuff but I'm still trying to determine how much wood I will need being that it is a cabin and we won't be there except for some weekends come hunting season.

 

[Jags]

How do I know or what should I look for to determine if it is working properly? How will I know when or if the everburn thing goes kaput?



Sorry for the basic questions.

You WILL know. Good stove function will tell you if it is working properly. What does that mean? Controllable temps in the proper temp range 450/500 to 600/650. No runaway 800F stove tops, no smokey burns and reloads. A stove that DOES NOT sound like a freight train is gonna pull up in your living room.

BBar nailed two important things. A stove top thermo and nice, dry fuel. Both of those will get you going in the right direction.

 

[BJE80]

As others have stated, a sales rep is not necessary an expert in his field. The Everburn design in your stove is a system that has given many, many folks a hassle. It is the reburn technology that Vermont Casting uses, which owned Dutchwest, which is owned by Monessen Hearth Systems Co.

The main issues with the design was that it would either take off like an uncontrollable rocket or smolder the wood into a smokey mess. I have never used a stove that used the Everburn system, but it has a long, documented history of frustration.

That being said, there are those that get the stove running well for them. I would recommend a good stove thermometer for it and make sure your supply of wood is dry. Not seasoned, but dry.

That's a nice looking cabin and I hope the stove works out well for you.

Well not sure if it is a good sign or not but if anything it took off very well like a rocket. No problem keeping it going on the break in burns or the one night it was in the 40's when we tried it.

I ordered a thermometer this morning as I read about that. Learning on the fly but learning quick as I keep reading on here from past threads.

 

[Jags]

"Buying dry wood" is pretty close to "seeing bigfoot" or "riding a unicorn". Pretty much all fantasy.

We ain't joking here - if your fuel is not DRY you won't stand a chance with this stove.

 

[BrowningBAR]

"Buying dry wood" is pretty close to "seeing bigfoot" or "riding a unicorn". Pretty much all fantasy.

We ain't joking here - if your fuel is not DRY you won't stand a chance with this stove.

Or any stove.

Seriously, wet wood makes your life hell.

 

[BJE80]

"Buying dry wood" is pretty close to "seeing bigfoot" or "riding a unicorn". Pretty much all fantasy.

We ain't joking here - if your fuel is not DRY you won't stand a chance with this stove.

Great! So now most people that sell wood do not season their wood either hey? That was supposed to be my back up plan going in if we go through our dry supply quickly and I need more. Do you guys have any good news for me?

 

[BJE80]

"Buying dry wood" is pretty close to "seeing bigfoot" or "riding a unicorn". Pretty much all fantasy.

We ain't joking here - if your fuel is not DRY you won't stand a chance with this stove.

I'm guessing what you are saying is that if my wood is not really good dry stuff that this stove will compound the problem even more.


Symptoms that my wood is not dry enough when purchased is what? Smoldering and smoke? Inefficient burn?


Keep spoon feeding me. It tastes good.

 

[mellow]

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[Jags]

Do you guys have any good news for me?

If you vet out your wood monger and maybe even have the ability to test the wood - it is possible that a small percentage of the suppliers could actually have seasoned wood. If they can tell you that is has been SPLIT for year, you might stand a chance.

Get a moisture meter and something to split open a test subject (axe, maul, Chuck Norris). Split open one of the splits and test the new surface area. Your goal is 22% or less (less being a whole lot better).

 

[mellow]

Buy a moisture meter, that is the best way to gauge how seasoned your wood is.

http://www.harborfreight.com/digital-mini-moisture-meter-67143.html

 

[BrowningBAR]

Great! So now most people that sell wood do not season their wood either hey? That was supposed to be my back up plan going in if we go through our dry supply quickly and I need more. Do you guys have any good news for me?

Buy/gather two years worth of wood now. And I mean right now. This way you are all set for the following year with good dry wood. If this is a full time residence, plan on using 4 cords, which means you need eight cords on hand.

 

[Jags]

I'm guessing what you are saying is that if my wood is not really good dry stuff that this stove will compound the problem even more.

I think you are picking up what I am putting down. Get a moisture meter to go along with the Thermometer.

 

[BrowningBAR]

Symptoms that my wood is not dry enough when purchased is what? Smoldering and smoke? Inefficient burn?

In some/most cases you will hear and see the moisture sizzling from the split.

 

[Jags]

As a weekend cabin, I would take a swag at 1.5 to 2 cords per year consumption. You may find that you burn more in the summer with a camp fire then you do inside.

 

[BJE80]

I have 3 face cords dry sitting there right now. I probably won't be up there much after mid December. I have probably another cord of cut and split green stuff that won't be ready till next year but once the weather gets a little bit more enjoyable I'll get going more for next year. Probably will get 3 cords done by late fall. We have plenty of timber to cut up on our 80 acres. It's just a matter of making it through this first year.


I will stop and get one of those moisture meters on my way to the cabin this weekend. That way I can check my current wood supply as well.

 

[Jags]

You might be surprised how far your cord of wood will carry you if only burning on weekends. Still - get a moisture meter.

 

[BJE80]

You might be surprised how far your cord of wood will carry you if only burning on weekends. Still - get a moisture meter.

What would be the absolute highest moisture content you would burn in this stove? You mentioned a goal of 22%. But if I can’t find anything decent when I look to buy some then what?