Looking for input on Blaze King

[AKnick]

Hello everyone.

First time poster here. Looking at getting my first wood stove for a cabin/house I’m building. I am building a 1,400 sq ft cabin, one story with a loft over the back half, 12 ft walls with open cathedral ceiling. Looking at getting a sirocco blaze king. Just not sure if I should go with the 20 or 30 size. I would like to use wood as my primary heat, but I’ll also have a toyo stove. I would also like to be able to burn in late fall and early spring without getting “burned out”. Would you guys with experience recommend the 20 and just burn on higher when cold out, or the 30 and burn on lower more?

Thanks in advance for any input, it’s greatly appreciate.

 

[bholler]

Go with the 30 it has pretty similar heatoutput but will give you longer burns.

 

[BKVP]

AKnick

Whether you are in SE Alaska or the interior might be part of your decision.

Also, R-value construction values will also play a role. Keeping in mind, spruce and birch are fine fuels, but our experience is the burn times will be shorter as a result.

As noted by bholler, the BTU output isn't much higher/lower between the two sizes, the 30 is just a bigger fuel tank.

 

[Highbeam]

Agree and will add that due to larger clearance requirements for the 20, there may be no physical space savings by choosing the smaller fuel tank 20.

Go 30.

 

[AKnick]

Thanks for the input guys. Sounds like a no brainer I guess. It’s going to be new construction and I’m gonna insulate it correctly, however it’s only going to be 2x6 exterior walls and 10” rafters with batt insulation. I live in Bristol Bay, it can get down to -30, but usually wont stay there for long periods.

Thanks again guys!

 

[sutphenj]

"Only 2×6"? Is 2x12 becoming the norm or something? Honestly don't know what builders are doing today?

 

[AKnick]

I am not a “builder” by any means. However I don’t believe 2x12 walls are becoming the norm... I am saying that R19 walls and R30 ceilings aren’t necessary considered super well insulated. Thanks for the constructive reply though.

 

[begreen]

In your climate zone are you also sheathing the house in seam taped 1" foamboard? If so, the 2x6 wall should work.

 

[AKnick]

No, not going to be using any foam board around the house walls. Just good vapor barriers and properly installed batt insulation. I’ll use foam board and spray foam around the skirting of my crawl space.

 

[moresnow]

In your climate zone are you also sheathing the house in seam taped 1" foamboard? If so, the 2x6 wall should work.

This made a significant comfort/savings difference in my place. Easy. Cheap. Made sense. My thoughts only.

 

[AKnick]

Nothing is cheap where I am located... haha

 

[moresnow]

Good point! Had not noticed/considered your location. I'd likely believe it would be of even more benefit there!

 

[AKnick]

Local “hardware store” prices...

 

[moresnow]

You are at +43% per sheet, compared to here. Ouchy Still would not write it off.

Side note. I heat my place with the 20 series Sirocco. Love that thing. My place is roughly half the size as yours however. Might be well served by the 30 up your way. Pics would be great as you proceed. Have fun!

 

[AKnick]

Yep looks like the 30 will be the best bet for me. Like previously stated we don’t have hard wood around here. And none of the trees are very big. Would be nice to get a little bigger “fuel tank”.

Here is what I have so far. Put the foundation post, wood shed, and driveway in last fall. My lumber to frame the house will be here on the barge in a couple week.

Here is what it looked like just 3 weeks ago on April 6th. We got about 14” of snow the previous day and a half.

Got about 4 cords in in here. About 60% birch, 40% spruce. Those are our two main types of trees here. I got an additional 2 cords outside. I am going to frame the place and weatherize it by fall. I’ll put the wood stove in and work on the inside through the winter.

Everything is more expensive off the road system...

 

[AKnick]

Here’s the wood shed when I was building it last fall. It’s 16’ wide, 8’ deep and 8.5’ tall in the back at the low point. Should hold 8 cords when full.

 

[Highbeam]

View attachment 226306
Here’s the wood shed when I was building it last fall. It’s 16’ wide, 8’ deep and 8.5’ tall in the back at the low point. Should hold 8 cords when full.

Holy smokes. I wouldn’t even build it that light down here in Washington. Don’t you get snow loads?

Maybe I’m overthinking/overbuilding!

 

[jetsam]

View attachment 226295
Local “hardware store” prices...

NINE BUCKS for a 2x4?? You can get a cheap chainsaw mill for the price of 16 of those...

At least the F250 owens corning is only double the price instead of triple like the 2x4.

 

[AKnick]

Holy smokes. I wouldn’t even build it that light down here in Washington. Don’t you get snow loads?

Maybe I’m overthinking/overbuilding!

We get some snowload, not as much as you would think though. My altitude is only 60’ above sea level. But I do plan on putting 4 more rafters in between the center ones. I guess I was building on a budget when I put this shed up, but better safe than sorry.

 

[AKnick]

Besides with a metal roof and a steeper pitch than appears I could always push snow off of it if it became a worry. I’m more concerned with wind out here to be honest.

 

[AKnick]

NINE BUCKS for a 2x4?? You can get a cheap chainsaw mill for the price of 16 of those...

At least the F250 owens corning is only double the price instead of triple like the 2x4.

If only we had trees that made sense to mill out here. And the styrofoam is a bit “cheaper” cause it’s light weight. Shipping is accounted into everything out here. And more often than not that comes down to weight.

 

[moresnow]

Fill us in on where you are at. What do you do for a living out there? If your ok providing that info.
Just curious here. Believe I'd add a bunch to that wood pile!

 

[Rearscreen]

I don't think a snow load would be a problem, the lack of front to back bracing might be a bigger problem.

 

[Ashful]

"Only 2×6"? Is 2x12 becoming the norm or something? Honestly don't know what builders are doing today?

Note OP’s location.

 

[KennyK]

View attachment 226310 I don't think a snow load would be a problem, the lack of front to back bracing might be a bigger problem.

As this thread has taken on the direction of wood sheds, I have a related question - does it matter how steep of a slope the roof of the shed has? Is there a calculation for this? I am building one and the slope on mine is fairly shallow - it goes down only a few inches over a 4 foot span... My thinking here was to maximize space for wood, but perhaps I should cut one side down to make a steeper slope.