Mansfield Operating Questions

[tryingtostaywarm]

We've got our new Mansfield installed for a few weeks now. We've been burning it to keep the chill off, it hasn't been REALLY cold yet (yeah). I finally figured out how to find threads about the Mansfield itself, I know that soapstone is "a completely different animal" I also have seen how different one seems to be w/out a cat like woodstocks have.
so I have some questions about our new stove

**1) It smokes us out! Smoke just rolls out of the top of door if its open. With start up its not so bad, I have noticed I have to get kindling REALLY burning before shutting door, but when we go to reload it the smoke pours out! The only time it doesn't is when there are active flames from wood itself, but that's not when I need to reload it. I think the flue temps are still OK but of course they are cooler when it needs reload.

2) I've noticed it leaves a LOT of ashes. The manual said you might only have to empty ash pan every week, but after 1 or 2 burns its Full.
3) which brings me to how the heck are you suppose to empty the ash pan? I Don't like shoveling out of the box too much smoke. You are suppose to burn it w/ great closed... So I'm guessing you have to move the grate around now and then to let ash in pan (I really miss exterior control for ash grate!!). You are NOT suppose to burn any fire w/ Ash door open! but to burn it 24/7 I cant let the stove get cold (a whole day w/out fire) when it gets below 0. So how are you suppose to get ashes in pan and empty it while keeping your house warm while not opening the door while there is a fire??

4)How exactly does the air flow threw this stove? I did find a thread and find out the 2nd air comes in threw the tubes in back, but where does the initial air come in. I can't tell where the source of air is to burn coals and logs, I could load around it easier if I knew where it was.
5)I'm disappointed that the box seems smaller than I thought. Its because it seems SHORT door is a few inches higher than bottom of box and baffle comes down low so Im having a hard time not hitting the baffle when loading it! Once I get the wood in there its good except watching the height of logs. Getting it in is going to take some practice I think (and a glove!)

6)I read a lot of suggestions to get a pipe damper and we did. When do you use it?? I'm guessing to keep it cooler when the real 24/7 burn comes in to play. It doesn't seem like it would help getting things started and it would complicate the smoking out our house problem. Or do you use it to keep the overnight burn longer? Not sure how to take advantage of it to control the fire better.

7)Should I have 2 Temp guages 1 for stove & 1 for pipe?

I don't have a meter, and the wood probably isn't as dry as ideal but its what we have, cant buy the "manufactured log" type stuff. $$ is why were burning wood. Of course were always working on stacking for future years but there is a good breeze most of the time headed threw the stacks and tops are covered.

Looking forward to "getting to know" our new stove.
Thanks in advance for the help!!

 

[tryingtostaywarm]

Oh yeah
1) It sais No Cardboard, That was my go to for between paper and kindling is it OK to use just a little like that, not as a heating fuel?
2) What's the best way to use a steamer with my new Mansfield, I have one on an old stoves grate now but its not steaming a bit even when the stove is 500 deg. I think its cause there is a full inch of space between it and the stove?

There are coals in this pic but it has been this full of ash after just one day of burning?

This is loaded on a small bed of ashes w/ only 2 logs high and its almost to the baffle, am I loading it wrong? I didn't load it FULL cause its not that cold yet.

Also we are doing some remodeling so we do have wood that is "seasoned" about 100yrs we can throw in now and then

Thanks

 

[webby3650]

The baffle doesn't look right in that last picture. It appears to have a severe angle to it and it shouldn't. Maybe it's just a funky camera angle or something. Are you sure the baffle assembly is in place?

 

[webby3650]

There could be a lot of issues causin the stove to smoke. What is the chimney set-up like? The wood should be loaded straight in the door. Not cris crossed like that, if loaded North/South you should be able to get 7/8 nice size pieces in there. The wood pictured doesn't look even close to seasoned, oak needs to be split and stacked in the sun for at least 18 months to burn efficiently in that stove. We should be able to figure the issue out with a little more info.

 

[Dairyman]

**1) It smokes us out! Smoke just rolls out of the top of door if its open. With start up its not so bad, I have noticed I have to get kindling REALLY burning before shutting door, but when we go to reload it the smoke pours out! The only time it doesn't is when there are active flames from wood itself, but that's not when I need to reload it. I think the flue temps are still OK but of course they are cooler when it needs reload.

I have no trouble so long as I open the air control & flue damper, wait a minute then crack the door for a couple of seconds then open slowly. It could be caused from many things as webby said so describe your set up.

2) I've noticed it leaves a LOT of ashes. The manual said you might only have to empty ash pan every week, but after 1 or 2 burns its Full.
3) which brings me to how the heck are you suppose to empty the ash pan? I Don't like shoveling out of the box too much smoke. You are suppose to burn it w/ great closed... So I'm guessing you have to move the grate around now and then to let ash in pan (I really miss exterior control for ash grate!!). You are NOT suppose to burn any fire w/ Ash door open! but to burn it 24/7 I cant let the stove get cold (a whole day w/out fire) when it gets below 0. So how are you suppose to get ashes in pan and empty it while keeping your house warm while not opening the door while there is a fire??

The ashpan is a joke. Just rake the coals into a pile and scoop the ashes out.

4)How exactly does the air flow threw this stove? I did find a thread and find out the 2nd air comes in threw the tubes in back, but where does the initial air come in. I can't tell where the source of air is to burn coals and logs, I could load around it easier if I knew where it was.

Correct....the secondary air comes in at the rear two holes. The primary comes in at the front. If you follow the air control you'll see one side of the entry there's also an inlet on the right side. The primary air controls the airwash and the doghouse.

5)I'm disappointed that the box seems smaller than I thought. Its because it seems SHORT door is a few inches higher than bottom of box and baffle comes down low so Im having a hard time not hitting the baffle when loading it! Once I get the wood in there its good except watching the height of logs. Getting it in is going to take some practice I think (and a glove!)

This isn't right as far as I know. The secondary tubes are level in my stove. I wear welding gloves to load or while emptying the ashes.

6)I read a lot of suggestions to get a pipe damper and we did. When do you use it?? I'm guessing to keep it cooler when the real 24/7 burn comes in to play. It doesn't seem like it would help getting things started and it would complicate the smoking out our house problem. Or do you use it to keep the overnight burn longer? Not sure how to take advantage of it to control the fire better

I use mine to help control flue temp trying to keep more heat in the stove. Until you get a better feel for the stove leave it open until the load is cruising.

7)Should I have 2 Temp guages 1 for stove & 1 for pipe?

Yes! I if you have double wall pipe you'll need a probe type for the flue.

 

[Dairyman]

Oh yeah
1) It sais No Cardboard, That was my go to for between paper and kindling is it OK to use just a little like that, not as a heating fuel?
2) What's the best way to use a steamer with my new Mansfield, I have one on an old stoves grate now but its not steaming a bit even when the stove is 500 deg. I think its cause there is a full inch of space between it and the stove?

View attachment 140601 There are coals in this pic but it has been this full of ash after just one day of burning?

View attachment 140602 This is loaded on a small bed of ashes w/ only 2 logs high and its almost to the baffle, am I loading it wrong? I didn't load it FULL cause its not that cold yet.

Also we are doing some remodeling so we do have wood that is "seasoned" about 100yrs we can throw in now and then

Thanks

I don't burn cardboard but don't know why you couldn't?

I don't use a steamer, they don't put out enough moisture if you really need it.

I find the ash to settle over time. In the shoulder seasons I might go for a month without emptying. Just clear a tunnel in front of the doghouse and burn.


Here's some pics of mine maybe it will help.

 

[mstoelton]

In the photo you show, it looks like the baffle is not in the right place (too low). I do not have a mansfield, but I have 2 clydesdales and it is easy to get the baffle in wrong if you don't know where it is suppose to sit. This could be the source of all of you troubles. If the baffle is sitting too low, then the smoke that is suppose to stay above it will just roll out the front. This will also cause your firebox to be reduced in size. Be careful when moving the baffle around. The ceramic board is soft enough to put a finger through it. Then you gotta replace. If you look at Dairyman's photos above you will see where the baffle is suppose to be (at the top of the firebox and you cannot see any space above it. NOTE: If the mansfield baffle is like the Clydesdale it will have 2 allen screws along the back horizontal baffle support that screw into the back frame of the stove..

 

[Highbeam]

I don't burn cardboard but don't know why you couldn't?

I don't use a steamer, they don't put out enough moisture if you really need it.

I find the ash to settle over time. In the shoulder seasons I might go for a month without emptying. Just clear a tunnel in front of the doghouse and burn.


Here's some pics of mine maybe it will help.

View attachment 140671 View attachment 140672

Holy crapola dairyman. Those are big splits and lots of ash. Must be dry wood for that to take off and burn clean being layed in there side by side.

 

[firefighterjake]

I'm just looking at these pics of a fully loaded stove and thinking how this much wood would drive me out of the house. This time of year I'm doing partial loads with pine and other junk wood . . . packing a stove like this with good wood would result in a lot of open windows.

 

[webby3650]

I have no trouble so long as I open the air control & flue damper, wait a minute then crack the door for a couple of seconds then open slowly. It could be caused from many things as webby said so describe your set up.




The ashpan is a joke. Just rake the coals into a pile and scoop the ashes out.




Correct....the secondary air comes in at the rear two holes. The primary comes in at the front. If you follow the air control you'll see one side of the entry there's also an inlet on the right side. The primary air controls the airwash and the doghouse.




This isn't right as far as I know. The secondary tubes are level in my stove. I wear welding gloves to load or while emptying the ashes.




I use mine to help control flue temp trying to keep more heat in the stove. Until you get a better feel for the stove leave it open until the load is cruising.




Yes! I if you have double wall pipe you'll need a probe type for the flue.

I have no idea why your quotes say that I said these things? Very strange, as if I'm the OP.

 

[BrotherBart]

Holy crapola dairyman. Those are big splits and lots of ash. Must be dry wood for that to take off and burn clean being layed in there side by side.

That is my favored night load in the 30-NC.

 

[Dairyman]

I have no idea why your quotes so that I said these things? Very strange, as if I'm the OP.

Strange, says it here to. I'll see if I can fix it.

 

[Dairyman]

Holy crapola dairyman. Those are big splits and lots of ash. Must be dry wood for that to take off and burn clean being layed in there side by side.

Burned great! 2 year CSS silver maple

 

[Dairyman]

I'm just looking at these pics of a fully loaded stove and thinking how this much wood would drive me out of the house. This time of year I'm doing partial loads with pine and other junk wood . . . packing a stove like this with good wood would result in a lot of open windows.

Still no fire here this year Jake. Those were the only pics I had shrunk on this phone.

Here's a normal 4 split shoulder load for me.

 

[firefighterjake]

Still no fire here this year Jake. Those were the only pics I had shrunk on this phone.

Here's a normal 4 split shoulder load for me.
View attachment 140695

Ah ha ... this looks more typical of a burn for this time of year.

 

[tryingtostaywarm]

1st of all, you guys are awesome! I think the smoking is the baffle, looking at it it's not in straight now I'm calling the dealer on that. The chimney is single wall, in ceramic housing threw wall and inside chimney stack. Has a bend inside house an extension from house to stack and is about 22ft.
Actually that may be the cause of most of my problems. Will have to figure out the ashes thing as I go. I have pictures I'll get up soon.

 

[tryingtostaywarm]

Baffle

 

[tryingtostaywarm]

Chimney

 

[Highbeam]

WTF is that? The external single wall from crock to crock?

Your stove is probably fine, that chimney is highly suspect.

 

[webby3650]

WTF is that? The external single wall from crock to crock?

Your stove is probably fine, that chimney is highly suspect.

I agree! If you get that baffle put back into place and a proper chimney on that thing, you should be fine.

 

[tryingtostaywarm]

WTF is that? The external single wall from crock to crock?

That is that the only way we could see to get pipe to chimney. That section might be double walled. I don't remember, I'm not the one who takes it apart and cleans it every year. We had to move the location of the stove, the prev location was not up to code. pipe used to enter @ wall directly attached to chimney but as I said that was not up to code and ins. co. would not let us have a stove in that location. They completely approved current set up.
So............. HOW exactly would you do it?? What would you do to fix the problem? moving and rebuilding the entire wall doesn't seam very feasible, especially since there is double tin plates cement/rock built up the entire length of the inside wall there. Is it the parallel section? do we need to angle it up??

 

[tryingtostaywarm]

How would you "properfy" the chimney?

OK so I busted out the manual. Cause I want to have things correct. The Masonry part of the chimney is w/in requirements of manual. We added extra pipe on top to fix a downdraft problem w/ our old stove and it did. I also got out the level and measuring yard... and I know that section of outside pipe looks level, but according to manual it needs minimum of 1/4" rise per foot. From Connection to connection there is less than 4ft. including to connection in masonry I was generous w/ length of section. So it needs at least 1" of rise. It has that possibly 2". It probably would be ideal to have more...

Or is it the possibility if its a single wall pipe section it will cool down to much and counter the draft pulling smoke up?

Trying to understand all these little intricacies.
Thanks for all your help and patients

 

[Highbeam]

I would tear that whole mess down.

At a minimum, that exterior single wall is illegal. You can't leave the stove room with stove pipe. Since they are taking that goofy outside single wall apart each year you know that it is also a leaky connection letting outside cold air in and spoiling your draft.

 

[begreen]

That is my favored night load in the 30-NC.

Likewise in the T6.

And +1 to Highbeam's comment. Get that chimney system safe and better performing by tearing out the jerry-rigged crap and putting up a proper insulated chimney system. Modern stoves are draft dependent to achieve a good clean burn.

 

[tryingtostaywarm]

That's the plan, it will be part of a MAJOR project replacing that whole addition.
Thanks for helping me figure out the baffle issue.

In the photo you show, it looks like the baffle is not in the right place (too low). I do not have a mansfield, but I have 2 clydesdales and it is easy to get the baffle in wrong if you don't know where it is suppose to sit. This could be the source of all of you troubles. If the baffle is sitting too low, then the smoke that is suppose to stay above it will just roll out the front. This will also cause your firebox to be reduced in size. Be careful when moving the baffle around. The ceramic board is soft enough to put a finger through it. Then you gotta replace. If you look at Dairyman's photos above you will see where the baffle is suppose to be (at the top of the firebox and you cannot see any space above it. NOTE: If the mansfield baffle is like the Clydesdale it will have 2 allen screws along the back horizontal baffle support that screw into the back frame of the stove..

Thanks mstoelton, Dairyman and Webby.