Mattox Energy Saver

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RedEyedRooster

New Member
Dec 18, 2015
9
Seymour, Indiana
My uncle gave me a wood stove for my barn and I wanted to find out if anyone knew anything about these stoves. The door says Mattox Energy Saver it's 50"H x 36"D x 30"W. Has six rows of @ 1" tubes (60 tubes) that go the length at the top and two slots on the sides that are @ 1.5"x3" that go the length. Has a large squirrel fan blower on the back that blows out the tubes and slots. Large ash pan that goes the length with 3 air vents in front. Don't know how old it is but I assume it's old, very heavy. Thought about having it reconditioned, just remove rust (any advise), polish black, and replace fire brick inside. Looks like it will take 30" logs, 27" would be ideal but my splitter does about 24" max.

Mattox sm.jpg Front-sm.jpg Side-sm.jpg
 
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Possibly hit it with a sandblaster first. Nifty looking unit!
 
That is a beast of a heater.
 
Out with the old and in with the new-old. Here is some shots of the inside also. Am wondering if I need to worry about a log grate sense the ash pan has the air controls and the the floor more or less is a grate. Also plan to put a 160f ceramic temperature switch on the back, run it to a standard plugin so I can run both my blower motor and my 30" pedestal osculating fan (amps may be a problem for the 30").
stoves-sm.jpg inside-look-sm.jpg Floor-sm.jpg inside-pan-open-sm.jpg
 
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Methinks with the blower pushing air through the tubes in that tank the other fan will be a non-issue.
 
Got the pluming done but it's going to be January before it gets cold enough for a decent test.
IMG_0892.JPG Installed-1.jpg
 
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Might just be the camera angle, is the flue pipe 18" away from the wood?
 
Pipe was there when I moved in, in 2009. I know it's closer than 18". Is that the distance you're supposed to be? I'll have to look into moving it, it's a single wall 7" stainless looking pipe with a black 8" single wall coming out of the stove. I know the 7" is thicker for sure. Funny you mentioned the distance because I was looking at it and thought I would put a heat shield where the two pipes connect.
 
The purlins can be shielded with a proper shields on spacers. I would investigate clearances all the way up for other possible issues. Does it transition to proper class A chimney at some point?
 
After doing some investigation on chimney pipes and how it's to be done I've decided to put in a new pipe in a better location with a proper class A chimney. Thanks for bring to my attention this important safety component I was over looking. I think I want the pipe inside just a straighter shot all 8" for the added heat but not sure how much hassle it will be to clean. House has external flue pipe which is a breeze to clean. Any thoughts.
 
The stove needs to be 36" from any combustible, unless there is proper shielding behind it. That may help locate the chimney. For easier cleaning the chimney can terminate above below the roof line and continue on as connector pipe with a tee on the bottom with its nose connecting to the stove and a cleanout cap on the bottom.
 
I found out why no one knows about these stoves, it's because their custom built by a man named Jerry Mattox in the Salem - Campbellsburg area here in Indiana. I didn't realize it but I have another uncle with a shorter-wider version in his basement for the past 35 years. I guess he makes them for a living but doesn't go commercial because of insurance. I'm guessing it's 35 to 40 years old, not as old as I thought.

I'm glad I got it but I don't like my original chimney that was here when I bought the place (7" single wall SS about 5" from the interior wall) so I'm going to put up a SuperVent class A stainless steel, double wall, thru the wall chimney pipe. I'll go out above the window, extend the base out with custom angle iron rectangle base frame to miss the 16" over hang using a 24" L horizontal and go 120" vertical (roof peaks about 12' away, about 102" from center of tee) supporting with two wall bands extended out. 8" SuperVent kit online at Menards with locking bands for each section and roof guy kit should be about $985.07 after tax. I'll hook up the interior with 8"single wall with damper. Sound like a good deal? or is there something better? have I missed something? Stove will be 30" from interior wall, I'll just put up a reflective wall spaced out 1". Thanks begreen for bring to my attention the safety aspects of this wood stove install. Better than replacing the barn and everything in it.
 
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I must say, it is nice seeing someone owning the shortcomings of their installation and taking steps to fix it right away. Most seem to try to make excuses and get angry at those offering advice before considering the potential ramifications
 
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That definitely will be an improvement. Keep us posted.
 
Wife isn't as excited to spend a $1000.00 on this project as I am, lol, but hey the stove was free. I never thought about the chimney pipe. I may have to stay in this barn, which is OK (it's got a beer fridge) if I can make it warm.
 
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Did a test run this evening and fired the stove up. Started at 8pm it was 31° in the barn, at 10pm it was 65° in the barn. I was really pleased with the amount of heat this stove puts out it's amazing. Back of the stove was warm but not hot (you could keep your hand on it). I was really shocked with how much wood you can put in this thing though. Probably put in 12-15 red oak splits 21" L was a little less than half way full. At 12pm I had about 6 or 7 inches of hot coals and the barn was at 60° so I'm happy with it. I'll do the the new chimney when it comes in just couldn't wait. Everything looked good though.
 
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Very impressive. A 34º rise in a couple hours in a cold building is hard to achieve with a stove. That heater is more furnace than stove.
 
Did a test run this evening and fired the stove up. Started at 8pm it was 31° in the barn, at 10pm it was 65° in the barn. I was really pleased with the amount of heat this stove puts out it's amazing. Back of the stove was warm but not hot (you could keep your hand on it). I was really shocked with how much wood you can put in this thing though. Probably put in 12-15 red oak splits 21" L was a little less than half way full. At 12pm I had about 6 or 7 inches of hot coals and the barn was at 60° so I'm happy with it. I'll do the the new chimney when it comes in just couldn't wait. Everything looked good though.
hi in reguards of the mattox energy its the best wood stove iv ever seen and its made in salem Indiana at mattox welding an fabrication I think its on cox ferry rd just ask anybody around there they most likely know where its at but they may not be in bizz no more just let me know I know someone who has three o these stoves
 
hi in reguards of the mattox energy its the best wood stove iv ever seen and its made in salem Indiana at mattox welding an fabrication I think its on cox ferry rd just ask anybody around there they most likely know where its at but they may not be in bizz no more just let me know I know someone who has three o these stoves
Yeah This is one good wood stove/furnace. Sense our first run we've had it colder outside and hotter inside. It's been a life saver for the boys working on vehicles this year. Plan to blast it this summer and give it a paint job, probably custom. Uncle said stove was sold $1.00 per pound. @ 700+ pound stove.
 
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