Moisture Reader Rookie Questions

[teekal]

Hey guys, I just got my General Moisture Reader from Amazon today and I'm excited to stockpile my garage with the wood that is seasoned from outdoor stacks. Everything I have right now is borderline because I'm a first-year wood stove owner and I've used up everything that the previous owner left when we bought the house. All of my stacks right now are from fallen trees that I have harvested in the past months.

I have a couple of self-admittedly very ignorant question from a Rookie:

a) What is the recommended % to be able to burn the wood, and does it vary by type of wood? I have a large stack that I know is elm, the rest that I harvested I have no idea what type of trees they were. My brother-in-law thinks ash but he does not really know what he's talking about.

b) I know that to get a true reading you need to split the wood and check the split side, but is it a worthwhile preliminary test to check the end of a piece in the stack (before actually splitting it) or is this not going to give any real information.

c) lastly, does the fact that the stacks are sitting outside in -25 celsius weather (most with snow on top or around the stack) going to affect the test?

Thanks so much for being patient with us newbies around here and our brutal questions! You guys have been nothing but awesome in sharing your knowledge.

Ty

 

[fire245]

Hey guys, I just got my General Moisture Reader from Amazon today and I'm excited to stockpile my garage with the wood that is seasoned from outdoor stacks. Everything I have right now is borderline because I'm a first-year wood stove owner and I've used up everything that the previous owner left when we bought the house. All of my stacks right now are from fallen trees that I have harvested in the past months.

I have a couple of self-admittedly very ignorant question from a Rookie:

a) What is the recommended % to be able to burn the wood, and does it vary by type of wood? I have a large stack that I know is elm, the rest that I harvested I have no idea what type of trees they were. My brother-in-law thinks ash but he does not really know what he's talking about.

b) I know that to get a true reading you need to split the wood and check the split side, but is it a worthwhile preliminary test to check the end of a piece in the stack (before actually splitting it) or is this not going to give any real information.

c) lastly, does the fact that the stacks are sitting outside in -25 celsius weather (most with snow on top or around the stack) going to affect the test?

Thanks so much for being patient with us newbies around here and our brutal questions! You guys have been nothing but awesome in sharing your knowledge.

Ty

Wood should be 10 to 20, wood must be thawed or you will get a inaccurate reading. 20 is on the high side but there is such a thing as too dry. The wood will off gas too quick and could over fire the stove not to mention it goes poof.

 

[Seanm]

Room temperature is best, cherry pick some from your stacks and take them inside for the day and then split them. Remember that wood from the bottom of your stack will likely have a higher moisture content then the stuff that is higher up that gets more wind and sun. If you have any pine you will have to do a calibration as your readings will be off. I wouldnt bother checking the ends as I dont feel that will tell you much but thats just me. Not advocating burning wet wood but if your readings are a little above 20% and thats what you have to burn then you should be ok, just keep an eye on your chimney.

 

[claydogg84]

A - 15-20%

B - Don't bother with the ends, it's what's on the inside that matters.

C - Bring a few pieces indoors for 24 hours to get to room temperature, then split and check.

Anytime you're not sure on a species of wood, feel free to ask. Some of the guys around here are really good.

 

[Poindexter]

-25C is about -13dF yes? Other than suggesting you wait 48 hours before you take your MM reading to the bank I agree with all of the above.

If the meter is showing you 16% or less with the wood at +55dF (~+12.8C) you don't have to correct for species, it is dry enough to burn. Above 16%, yup, do the math.

Frozen water doesn't conduct electricity very well, your meter will think the wood is very very dry - until it thaws.

I don't bother measuring end grain, at my house end grain readings just don't correlate well to doing it right. Sometimes they are close, sometimes they are not, just a waste of time with birch and spruce.

 

[Seanm]

If the meter is showing you 16% or less with the wood at +55dF (~+12.8C) you don't have to correct for species, it is dry enough to burn. Above 16%, yup, do the math

I would agree with that.