Moving a Woodstock Soapstone Keystone

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mmcc

Member
Dec 12, 2016
71
Northeast Ohio
I've just arranged to buy a Woodstock Soapstone Keystone off Craigslist. Now I'm faced with the prospect of moving 440 lbs of cast iron and stone.

Can this thing be disassembled? Are there any instructions around for doing so?
 
No need the disassemble, just get a good dolly and a couple of moving blankets. My sister just bought and two friends of hers picked it up and rolled into place. 440,S not that heavy for a stove.
 
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I can't get the Keystone part of this page to display on my phone to give you the direct link, but link to Keystone diagram is on this page.

(broken link removed to http://woodstove.com/parts-manuals)

Door, ash pan, and ash grate should all come off easily. Maybe the small stone that covers the flue collar too.
 
Take a short piece of 2x4 and some furniture sliders. Use the 2x for a fulcrum, put the sliders under the feet and you can move it around pretty easily. Some cribbing and a good hand truck will make it possible.
 
Thanks for the advice, all. I'll rent an appliance dolly and give it a go.

Is there any problem with putting the dolly on the side of the unit instead of the front or back? I think the front/back legs are farther apart than the dolly platform is wide. Plus that should make it easier to get it through doors.
 
The side is fine, as long as the stove is fairly upright.
 
I wrap the stove in a moving blanket then ratchet-strap it to a heavy duty dolly with a plywood board under the legs. This worked well for moving out the Castine and moving in the 600# T6.
 
rent a dolly and buy a 24 pack, dolly saves your back, 24 pack splits nicely with 3 other friends
 
Split the beer - after - the stove has been moved and is in place.
 
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And only a 24 pack, you don't want your friends loitering around to long, once they feel the heat of a good woodstove they'll want one to which means you'll have to help them, also they'll increase the competition when free wood deals come around.
 
I made that mistake once with a house repair party to fix a wall with carpenter ant damage. The work was so bad I had to tear it all out and redo it the next day.
 
With help from my bother in law, teenage nephews and an appliance dolly, I got the thing successfully moved this weekend. I need to build hearth extension before hooking it up, but I'm really looking forward to it. Thanks!
 
Good to hear, my sister loves her Keystone so hope you do too. Pics after install or it didn't happen.
 
I, for one, would like to hear all the juicy details! How old is it (should be on the tag,) what color, got any pics of the inside/outside? How many seasons on the cat? How cheap did you get it? ==c
my sister loves her Keystone so hope you do too.
Pretty much guaranteed. >>
 
Pics after install or it didn't happen.

Pics shall be provided. It might take a couple weeks.

I, for one, would like to hear all the juicy details! How old is it (should be on the tag,) what color, got any pics of the inside/outside? How many seasons on the cat? How cheap did you get it? ==c
Pretty much guaranteed. >>

It was made in Februrary, 1995. It came with the house of the person I bought it from. The seller never used it, but I have no idea how much it was used before he took possession, and ergo how much time was on the cat.

What color? Soapstone and cast iron colored :) I just looked at the color chart on Woodstock's web site - I guess it is matte black.

Condition is good - some scratches in the stone that I'll need to sand out, a couple spots of rust, but nothing major. The interior is pretty gunky, but I'm hoping that will burn out with a nice hot fire. The biggest problem I've seen so far is that there's a gap between the bypass plate and the bypass frame. It seems like a consistent gap, so I don't think there's warping - I'm hoping it just needs adjustment to close snugly.

How cheap? I gave $800, which seemed like a good deal given that they are $2600 new right now. Even if it needs a new cat a a few other parts I think I'll come out OK. We shall see.
 
Condition is good - some scratches in the stone that I'll need to sand out, a couple spots of rust, but nothing major. The interior is pretty gunky, but I'm hoping that will burn out with a nice hot fire. The biggest problem I've seen so far is that there's a gap between the bypass plate and the bypass frame. It seems like a consistent gap, so I don't think there's warping - I'm hoping it just needs adjustment to close snugly.
You can copy and save all the manuals from the website. They say 0000 steel wool for any scratches, but I don't worry about 'em much. You can scrape most of the creo out of the box with a putty knife, if it's dry, crusty stuff like I usually see. Really, I don't mess with that either. I guess I'm kinda lazy, and this is a great stove for me. ;lol I don't have to load it very often, and ash-handling is the easiest ever devised. >>
As far as the bypass door, you can get to it through the top flue outlet. The cat heat shield is fastened with one bolt at the back...the front seats in a groove or something. The cat can then be turned, and removed. From your description, I'm wondering if the bypass gasket is missing. When properly adjusted, at the end of the lever throw you should encounter a little resistance and you'll have to press a little harder to cam it down.
I gave $800...Even if it needs a new cat a a few other parts I think I'll come out OK. We shall see.
Yeah, I'd say that's a deal. >> I'm assuming it has a ceramic cat, and the cast iron combustor scoop. If the cat is intact, not crumbled apart or cupped badly, dust the face and gently blow through it (no compressed air!) If it seems sluggish, or drops out too soon, you can try to simmer it out. (broken link removed to http://www.condar.com/combustorcleaningmanual.pdf) If you have the cast combustor frame, you'll need some interam gasket to wrap the cat, which prevents smoke from going around the sides of the cat. There is also a rope gasket that the cat frame sits on, to seal it there.
Did I mention that we like pics? ;)
If you need a new cat, one option is to go with the Woodstock DuraFoil steel cat, and you could also put in the stainless combustor scoop...the screen will catch some of the ash, instead of it getting on the cat face. Even if you end up buying a few parts, Woodstock prices are probably the cheapest you'll find.
When you begin running the stove, don't hesitate to ask questions...we can get you up to speed pretty quickly. :)
Now, the most important question....how long has your wood been split and stacked in the wind, with a top-cover?
 
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The cat heat shield is fastened with one bolt at the back...the front seats in a groove or something. The cat can then be turned, and removed.

I'll probably pull that tonight and see how it is looking. From what I could see through the back, it was covered in black crud like everything else, but I didn't see any crumbling.

From your description, I'm wondering if the bypass gasket is missing. When properly adjusted, at the end of the lever throw you should encounter a little resistance and you'll have to press a little harder to cam it down.

The gasket seems to be there, though, of course, covered in black crud. I might just need to lean on the lever a little more..

Now, the most important question....how long has your wood been split and stacked in the wind, with a top-cover?

Not nearly long enough. I didn't build up my inventory soon enough. I've got 2 1/2 cords or so that'll be ready for next winter, and hope to put up some more. I have enough for a few more fires this winter, but that's about it. So... next winter will be when it gets its true test.

Thanks for that advice!
 
I moved a Progress in, then out, then in again by myself. No help. Oh yes there were stairs. It's doable.
 
I moved a Progress in, then out, then in again by myself. No help. Oh yes there were stairs. It's doable.
How's your back?

Woodstocks cats are reasonably priced, might worth it to replace the gaskets, they're cheap too.