Multiple chimney fires

[ERP]

We have a Majestic BR series fireplace https://www.manualslib.com/manual/97875/Majestic-Fireplaces-Bc36.html#manual which was installed in 2004. It has a double wall SS chimney pipe which goes straight up the chimney chase after a 45 degree bend just above the firebox. The chimney is always cleaned and inspected annually just before wood burning season and we also burn a creosote sweeping log a couple of times during the season. We have been getting wood from the same vendor for many years, it is all split and seasoned hardwood with a moisture content of 7% - 15% .

Within the past several years (starting around 2016), we have had 4 chimney fires . None of these fires resulted in any damage to the house (everything was contained to the pipe) however one of the fires caused buckling of the chimney pipe which required a complete replacement of the chimney (2017) . Another fire in early 2021 caused some warping of the pipe but did not require replacement. An inspection around this time revealed extensive creosote build up in the chimney (even though it had been cleaned just before fire burning season) and we ended up hiring a company (July 2021) to apply a PCR treatment (Poultice Creosote Removal) to the chimney pipe.

Since then, there have had no issues until January 2024 when we had yet another (small) chimney fire. The chimney was inspected after this most recent fire (it had been cleaned in late August 2023) and the sweep found 3 areas where the pipe had buckled and said it needed to be replaced (again!) My wife and I are now considering converting to a gas log insert (although we would much rather stick with wood) if we can't pin down the cause of these fires. Recently, it occurred to me that we started having these chimney fires around the same time that we began burning a fire every night of the week during fireplace season (prior to that, it had only been 2-3 nights /week). Could this have something to do with all the chimney fires? Some further research online has also suggested that our type of fireplace is not well suited to burning every night of the week.

 

[webby3650]

If you burn more often, it needs cleaned more often. You will not be able to convert to a gas log with the chimney liner in disrepair. It needs to be a functioning fireplace.

 

[EbS-P]

Do you have a moisture meter? Of so are to check the MC on a fresh split face at room temp?

 

[stoveliker]

You are producing more creosote than you should, per average fire.

So either youa re burning wood that's too wet (how was the 7-15 pct measured?) or you're choking down the fire too much.

 

[ERP]

If you burn more often, it needs cleaned more often. You will not be able to convert to a gas log with the chimney liner in disrepair. It needs to be a functioning fireplace.

Our sweep recommends cleaning after burning 3-4 face cords which is what we currently use with nightly fires during the season.

 

[ERP]

Do you have a moisture meter? Of so are to check the MC on a fresh split face at room temp?

I'm using this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q5TFB74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I check the center of a split log both in the garage and on logs that have sat inside for a day or so.

 

[kborndale]

Sounds like your wood isn't as dry as you think. How did you come up with 7-15% wood?
7% wood is extremely difficult to achieve anywhere in New York State. Was it checked on a piece of wood that was resplit just before checking? You have to check the moisture on the inside of the wood, not the outside. It's very rare that you can buy wood that is ready to burn.

 

[ERP]

You are producing more creosote than you should, per average fire.

So either youa re burning wood that's too wet (how was the 7-15 pct measured?) or you're choking down the fire too much.

I'm using this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q5TFB74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I check the center of a split log both in the garage and on logs that have sat inside for a day or so. I always have the external air intake in the open position.

 

[ERP]

Sounds like your wood isn't as dry as you think. How did you come up with 7-15% wood?
7% wood is extremely difficult to achieve anywhere in New York State. Was it checked on a piece of wood that was resplit just before checking? You have to check the moisture on the inside of the wood, not the outside. It's very rare that you can buy wood that is ready to burn.

I'm using this - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07Q5TFB74/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I check the center of a split log both in the garage and on logs that have sat inside for a day or so. I get my 1st load (2 face cords) delivered in late summer and the second load (2 face cords) after I have used 1 face cord from the 1st load (I only have room for 3 face cords in my garage).

 

[stoveliker]

The point is did you resplit the log right before measuring and then measure on the freshly exposed surface?

(On a split that has been in 65-70 F for 24 hrs so it's acclimated to room temp, pins parallel to the grain, pushed as deep in as possible?)

7 percent is highly improbable period, let alone on wood one bought. I get 13 percent at best.on hardwood that sits.under a roof for four years .

 

[mellow]

You have no secondary reburn in that fireplace so all that junk is just going up and collecting on the cool chimney till you get enough that a spark lights a fire to it.

 

[Eman85]

A stopped clock reads correctly twice a day, borrow another meter and compare. dry wood or not it's obviously creating creosote and a hot fire is lighting it off. I have a zero clearance fireplace in our den, it has gas logs in it. It's just for a backup and I light them once a year to be sure they still work. It was here when we moved in and I have other projects or I'd tear it out. I wouldn't try to burn wood and get heat from it.

 

[ERP]

The point is did you resplit the log right before measuring and then measure on the freshly exposed surface?

(On a split that has been in 65-70 F for 24 hrs so it's acclimated to room temp, pins parallel to the grain, pushed as deep in as possible?)

7 percent is highly improbable period, let alone on wood one bought. I get 13 percent at best.on hardwood that sits.under a roof for four years .

The wood is already split on delivery. I push the pins in as far as I can and I get around 15% +- on the logs that are stacked in the garage. I usually bring a small pile of logs inside so they can dray out a bit more before I burn them. I got readings from 7% to 9% on these logs which I just tested prior to posting my reply.

 

[ERP]

A stopped clock reads correctly twice a day, borrow another meter and compare. Dry wood or not if you're damping it down for a long burn it's obviously creating creosote in your chimney. If you want to burn wood I'd buy the tools and clean the chimney a few times a year. I have a catalyst stove and clean before burning for the year and a couple of times during the season just to be sure.

What do you mean by 'damping it down'?

 

[stoveliker]

The wood is already split on delivery. I push the pins in as far as I can and I get around 15% +- on the logs that are stacked in the garage. I usually bring a small pile of logs inside so they can dray out a bit more before I burn them. I got readings from 7% to 9% on these logs which I just tested prior to posting my reply.

Yes, and it's been drying (a bit, say a few months) like this.
Wood dries from the outside in. The outside will therefore be drier than the inside.

Therefore you have to split the biggest piece you have again, and measure on (in the middle of) the freshly exposed surface
I suggest your wood may be above 20%, which would explain a lot here.

 

[ERP]

You have no secondary reburn in that fireplace so all that junk is just going up and collecting on the cool chimney till you get enough that a spark lights a fire to it.

What do you man by 'secondary re-burn?

 

[mellow]

The wood is already split on delivery. I push the pins in as far as I can and I get around 15% +- on the logs that are stacked in the garage. I usually bring a small pile of logs inside so they can dray out a bit more before I burn them. I got readings from 7% to 9% on these logs which I just tested prior to posting my reply.

You need to test a FRESH split piece of wood to check the moisture content INSIDE the piece of wood, just checking the outside will not yield the correct results.

 

[ERP]

Yes, and it's been drying (a bit, say a few months) like this.
Wood dries from the outside in. The outside will therefore be drier than the inside.

Therefore you have to split the biggest piece you have again, and measure on the freshly exposed surface
I suggest your wood may be above 20%, which would explain a lot here.

OK, I'll have to check that.

 

[Eman85]

What do you mean by 'damping it down'?

I edited my post after reading your linked manual, I thought you had an insert with controls. You only have a box to burn wood in, not for heat but for ambiance.

 

[ERP]

I edited my post after reading your linked manual, I thought you had an insert with controls. You only have a box to burn wood in, not for heat but for ambiance.

Correct, the outside air damper is either open or closed.

 

[mellow]

What do you man by 'secondary re-burn?

Think of a fireplace as an open pit, you keep throwing wood at it and all that heat and lost energy goes up the chimney.

With a newer woodstove it captures that energy and reburns it creating more heat and longer cleaner burns.

 

[mellow]

If you are wanting to upgrade to burning more and love the look of a fireplace then I would recommend getting a High efficiency fireplace, here is a sampling of some:

High Efficiency Wood Burning Fireplaces | Woodland Direct

Bring the authentic beauty of a real wood fire to your home with our quality assortment of High-Efficiency Wood Burning Fireplaces, Inserts, & Stoves. Shop today!

www.woodlanddirect.com

 

[ERP]

Think of a fireplace as an open pit, you keep throwing wood at it and all that heat and lost energy goes up the chimney.

With a newer woodstove it captures that energy and reburns it creating more heat and longer cleaner burns.

OK, thanks for clarifying that.

 

[qwee]

What kind of wood - oak? I'm guessing your wood seller is seasoning hardwood for one year on the ground and then selling it. This is a common practice for wood sellers. No fault, they don't know any better.

Without using your moisture meter, look at the splits. Is there cracking on the ends? When hit together do the splits clank (dry) or thud (moist)? The wood you are receiving might need several years to season. Maybe buy extra this year and let it season a couple of years before burning it.

 

[ERP]

What kind of wood - oak? I'm guessing your wood seller is seasoning hardwood for one year on the ground and then selling it. This is a common practice for wood sellers. No fault, they don't know any better.

Without using your moisture meter, look at the splits. Is there cracking on the ends? When hit together do the splits clank (dry) or thud (moist)? The wood you are receiving might need several years to season. Maybe buy extra this year and let it season a couple of years before burning it.

It's a mix of Ash & Oak, I'll take another look at the wood for splits & cracks. I'm trying to figure out how I can re-arrange the garage so I can store 4 face cords and order early. Thanks for the tips.