My first barber chair

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Thistle said:
smokinjay said:
Woody Stover said:
chvymn99 said:
Interestimg read. But why do they call it a Barber Chair?
Maybe because there have been many "close shaves." :lol:

lol Your right. Nothing like a black locust or hickory cracking from a barber chair. I in no way want to be anywhere around the back side of it. (the crack alone will freeze you for a second)
Its scary stuff. Seen a couple that sounded almost like a shotgun blast,made me jump back about 10 ft lol.

lol If you are jumping in the right direction its all GOOD. (12 gauge magium load)
 
smokinjay said:
Thistle said:
smokinjay said:
Woody Stover said:
chvymn99 said:
Interestimg read. But why do they call it a Barber Chair?
Maybe because there have been many "close shaves." :lol:

lol Your right. Nothing like a black locust or hickory cracking from a barber chair. I in no way want to be anywhere around the back side of it. (the crack alone will freeze you for a second)
Its scary stuff. Seen a couple that sounded almost like a shotgun blast,made me jump back about 10 ft lol.

lol If you are jumping in the right direction its all GOOD. (12 gauge magium load)

lol right on.I'm still here today with all my fingers,toes etc because of dedication to safety & not taking any chances.If something dont feel 'right',I wont proceed.Even in the best conditions,things can change in a split-second.
 
RNLA said:
I don't know how to quote but cowboybilly has the technique nailed!

Yes. And, I'm told from students, most forestry instructors now advise and teach the "boring cut" method of felling. (You'll find lots of examples on YouTube, even.) And lots of USFS instructional material.

Make whatever face cut (notch) you wish.
Instead of making the back (felling) cut from the outside toward the face cut, bore in with the tip to, in effect, start the felling cut from the end nearest the notch. Leave a couple of inches of hinge. Continue the felling cut from the inside toward the outer edge. On nearing/hitting that edge, the tree will release.

This method is highly recommended in the case of forward leaners.

The side-cutting thing was advocated back in the '70s.
 
CTYank said:
RNLA said:
I don't know how to quote but cowboybilly has the technique nailed!

Yes. And, I'm told from students, most forestry instructors now advise and teach the "boring cut" method of felling. (You'll find lots of examples on YouTube, even.) And lots of USFS instructional material.

Make whatever face cut (notch) you wish.
Instead of making the back (felling) cut from the outside toward the face cut, bore in with the tip to, in effect, start the felling cut from the end nearest the notch. Leave a couple of inches of hinge. Continue the felling cut from the inside toward the outer edge. On nearing/hitting that edge, the tree will release.

This method is highly recommended in the case of forward leaners.

The side-cutting thing was advocated back in the '70s.

Yep I agree. If a professor is teaching a bore cut and not you tube, or many on here if you could learn from them first hand. Youtube not where you want to bet your life on. Lee or Billy would be perfect. IF I COULD GET LEE OUT HERE! (or get up to Billys forest) lol The 70's style still works and safer if your not a pro bore cutter.
 
+1 to the Bore/Plunge cut technique
+1 to being safe though and knowing when to get outta the pocket as Jay says.

Remember, the bore cut has you plunging the tip of your saw, which should be at almost full throttle, into the tree--nose sprocket first. This is not for the faint of heart or rookies. Practice on logs already down. It is a very handy felling cut though, especially if your heartwood is punky.



First thing for any fell is cut yourself an escape trail/route outta there.
 
Here a good question what size bar and tree's are the bore cut guys using. I am normally 30-60 inch tree felling with a 460 and 28 inch bar. I think the pro bore guys must be around 20 inch bars and much smaller tree's. The only time I will bore it is to see if its hollow and the bar is vertical.
 
I think it is good practice to always be cutting from the side of the tree (you almost have to be anyway). I am always on one side or the other but never really standing directly behind it. Also sound is your friend, when you start hearing cracking it is good practice to get out of the way and watch, exit at an angle, not behind the tree. Another good lesson is never cut the whole way through a tree, you should always leave an inch or two of wood attached, that is what controls the direction of the fall. I have never tried a bore cut myself. Jay you are dealing with some awful big trees if you are up to 60 inches. Cutting something that big is almost a sin. LOL
 
Black Jaque Janaviac said:
What's "the pocket"?

lol Right next too the the tree, But if everything right a safe place to be. I very rarely move or even stop the trigger other than feathering a little all the way down. This puts the log out in front of the stump with out a roll or twist. Just seems like a pocket to me. (unless its hollow and then I will let the winch handle it)
 
GolfandWoodNut said:
I think it is good practice to always be cutting from the side of the tree (you almost have to be anyway). I am always on one side or the other but never really standing directly behind it. Also sound is your friend, when you start hearing cracking it is good practice to get out of the way and watch, exit at an angle, not behind the tree. Another good lesson is never cut the whole way through a tree, you should always leave an inch or two of wood attached, that is what controls the direction of the fall. I have never tried a bore cut myself. Jay you are dealing with some awful big trees if you are up to 60 inches. Cutting something that big is almost a sin. LOL

Not around here there old with lots of damage...Trees that big are silvers not worth a dam(firewood only)! We have big pockets of old growth. Lots of home owners have old growth walnuts most are damged to bad but I will get some pic's in the A.m. Of a slab we just finnish it fricken AWESOME!
 
Wow 60"... I know our woods was mostly logged I think in the 80's. Most of the bigger trees are in the 20" range.
 
OhioBurner© said:
Wow 60"... I know our woods was mostly logged I think in the 80's. Most of the bigger trees are in the 20" range.

Thats what I find when in the woods for the most part. The big ones are in the yards with lots of stuff to crush. I will get some good pic's of two tulips coming up there in the 50 inch range (think it will be my new barn). There in a back yard. Garage behind them fence line on the side shed stright ahead and house on the other side. Going to 45 degree it towards the house. Its going to be very nerve racking to say the least.
 
Henry Stamper,family patriarch of Oregon independent logging family played by Henry Fonda in the 1971 movie classic Sometimes A Great Notion :
"Its gonna be a real ball-breaker,but I got an idea we can whup it!"

Oldest son Hank,played by Paul Newman: "OK Henry....you get 'em started,the rest we'll just stomp 'em down! ;-)" :coolgrin:
 
smokinjay said:
OhioBurner© said:
Wow 60"... I know our woods was mostly logged I think in the 80's. Most of the bigger trees are in the 20" range.

Thats what I find when in the woods for the most part. The big ones are in the yards with lots of stuff to crush. I will get some good pic's of two tulips coming up there in the 50 inch range (think it will be my new barn). There in a back yard. Garage behind them fence line on the side shed stright ahead and house on the other side. Going to 45 degree it towards the house. Its going to be very nerve racking to say the least.

My land has never been logged and I have several monsters on it, one that is down (big Oak) that I have to finish cutting this year. But it is defineatly rare to be cutting a 60 inch one, especially a leaner (something that heavy would probably have fallen over). I do have one ash tree that has five trunks that must be 8 or 10 feet at the base. If that one dies I do not think I will be able to cut the trunk.

The image I have attached is probably the tallest and nicest red Oak I have. I have had a few forest rangers look at it and they were quite impressed. A sawmill owner told me it would take special saws to cut, but I will never cut it down.
 

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GolfandWoodNut said:
smokinjay said:
OhioBurner© said:
Wow 60"... I know our woods was mostly logged I think in the 80's. Most of the bigger trees are in the 20" range.

Thats what I find when in the woods for the most part. The big ones are in the yards with lots of stuff to crush. I will get some good pic's of two tulips coming up there in the 50 inch range (think it will be my new barn). There in a back yard. Garage behind them fence line on the side shed stright ahead and house on the other side. Going to 45 degree it towards the house. Its going to be very nerve racking to say the least.

My land has never been logged and I have several monsters on it, one that is down (big Oak) that I have to finish cutting this year. But it is defineatly rare to be cutting a 60 inch one, especially a leaner (something that heavy would probably have fallen over). I do have one ash tree that has five trunks that must be 8 or 10 feet at the base. If that one dies I do not think I will be able to cut the trunk.

The image I have attached is probably the tallest and nicest red Oak I have. I have had a few forest rangers look at it and they were quite impressed. I sawmill told me it would take special saws to cut, but I will never cut it down.

As long as termites dont start in on it. It is a resource but a lot of people will let big tree's go to waste thinking thats the right thing to do. Its a fine line. Buddy has a 53 inch oak termites are in it with lots of lead as well. It will get wasted.
 
smokinjay said:
GolfandWoodNut said:
smokinjay said:
OhioBurner© said:
Wow 60"... I know our woods was mostly logged I think in the 80's. Most of the bigger trees are in the 20" range.

Thats what I find when in the woods for the most part. The big ones are in the yards with lots of stuff to crush. I will get some good pic's of two tulips coming up there in the 50 inch range (think it will be my new barn). There in a back yard. Garage behind them fence line on the side shed stright ahead and house on the other side. Going to 45 degree it towards the house. Its going to be very nerve racking to say the least.

My land has never been logged and I have several monsters on it, one that is down (big Oak) that I have to finish cutting this year. But it is defineatly rare to be cutting a 60 inch one, especially a leaner (something that heavy would probably have fallen over). I do have one ash tree that has five trunks that must be 8 or 10 feet at the base. If that one dies I do not think I will be able to cut the trunk.

The image I have attached is probably the tallest and nicest red Oak I have. I have had a few forest rangers look at it and they were quite impressed. I sawmill told me it would take special saws to cut, but I will never cut it down.

As long as termites dont start in on it. It is a resource but a lot of people will let big tree's go to waste thinking thats the right thing to do. Its a fine line. Buddy has a 53 inch oak termites are in it with lots of lead as well. It will get wasted.

I agree with certain trees. Cherry trees have a limited life and just start losing branches when they get too big. Oak trees though can live for centuries. I do have dozens that are dead from when the gypsy moths came through about 20 years ago.
 
GolfandWoodNut said:
smokinjay said:
GolfandWoodNut said:
smokinjay said:
OhioBurner© said:
Wow 60"... I know our woods was mostly logged I think in the 80's. Most of the bigger trees are in the 20" range.

Thats what I find when in the woods for the most part. The big ones are in the yards with lots of stuff to crush. I will get some good pic's of two tulips coming up there in the 50 inch range (think it will be my new barn). There in a back yard. Garage behind them fence line on the side shed stright ahead and house on the other side. Going to 45 degree it towards the house. Its going to be very nerve racking to say the least.

My land has never been logged and I have several monsters on it, one that is down (big Oak) that I have to finish cutting this year. But it is defineatly rare to be cutting a 60 inch one, especially a leaner (something that heavy would probably have fallen over). I do have one ash tree that has five trunks that must be 8 or 10 feet at the base. If that one dies I do not think I will be able to cut the trunk.

The image I have attached is probably the tallest and nicest red Oak I have. I have had a few forest rangers look at it and they were quite impressed. I sawmill told me it would take special saws to cut, but I will never cut it down.

As long as termites dont start in on it. It is a resource but a lot of people will let big tree's go to waste thinking thats the right thing to do. Its a fine line. Buddy has a 53 inch oak termites are in it with lots of lead as well. It will get wasted.

I agree with certain trees. Cherry trees have a limited life and just start losing branches when they get too big. Oak trees though can live for centuries. I do have dozens that are dead from when the gypsy moths came through about 20 years ago.



Agree. This one I am talking about use to be a back stop for fire arms. This let the termites in probally still live another 5-20+ years who know but the wood will be worthless and something else could be growing it the spot.
 
I use this method that was taught to me from someone with 20+ years experience.
Set your notch 1/3 of trunk use your sight line on your saw (this really helps), plunge cut, set hinge no less than 1 inch, cut 1/2 hold wood and set wedge, cut other hold wood and set wedge.....pound away.
I just practiced on a medium sized cherry that had a 4' lean where I did'nt want it to go. But with this method it laid down right where I wanted it. All my cutt'in is done from the sides.

WoodButcher
 

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I was watching Ax Men lastnight and they where talking about the Barber chair and that loud "crackle" that happens. Then they animated it, pretty impressive, if I say so myself. But I was able to follow after learning it from here. Thanks.
 
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