My Jotul is weak

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Angelo C

Angelo C

Member
Hearth Supporter
Apr 11, 2010
124
Peoples Republic of NJ
Have a full masonry fireplace that I resisted installing an insert into for 25 years. Broke down and purchased a c550V2 Rockland insert. And to say I’m disappointed is an overstatement. The permit process took weeks longer then it should, Scheduling the install was weeks longer than agreed upon and now that it’s in, it is so underwhelming I’m sad I wasted all this time and money. I cannot heat the room it’s in 12 x24 (Two stories) no less the rest of the house.
The wood is seasoned (half the time I run “fireplace bricks) with the 2 years old white and red oak ( set in fully south facing open yard with no obstructions)
It’s NOT the firewood. Please avoid that. There is something either wrong with the install, or the unit. If there is not a fully active flame there is little to NO heat coming out of the unit. Fans are on high, vent is fully open. if the forced hot air NG system is not set to 65* the Jotul will not keep that room at 68* under any circumstances. Called the dealer and have gotten many excuses and said “we’ll send a tech” but get nowhere waiting with repeated callings.
I hate this thing.
I asked for dbl wall flue and he said “no” it will be too hot in the terracotta flue. I asked for a block off cap to seal the unit off better, was told no it won’t need that. All they put I. Was a few bats of insulation. It’s an exterior wall and the stone face does seem to be very warm to the touch.
Need some help from some happier Jotul folks if there are any.
 
How tall is your flue?
Do you have a steel liner in the chimney (even if single wall uninsulated)?
If not what's the size of the flue? 8*12 or so?
 
Ok.
And how tall from stove top to chimney cap?
 
Hm.
I was wondering if your draft was too high sucking the heat out of the stove. But 20 ft is not too tall (given a short horizontal section) for that to happen.

Not ideal to not have an insulated liner. (And likely needed for safety and code too...)
A sealed block off plate will help a lot too

Your installer was wrong on both counts.

Can you post a pic of how full you load the insert?
And some of your burning cycle?
 
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Your running it with the air wide open? Try cutting it back so the heat stays in the stove and not up the chimney.
 
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Okay, I'll let folks with jotul experience take it from here.
Todd knows better.
 
stoveliker said:
Hm.
I was wondering if your draft was too high sucking the heat out of the stove. But 20 ft is not too tall (given a short horizontal section) for that to happen.

Not ideal to not have an insulated liner. (And likely needed for safety and code too...)
A sealed block off plate will help a lot too

Your installer was wrong on both counts.

Can you post a pic of how full you load the insert?
And some of your burning cycle?
Click to expand...
Loading and source have had no effect. I’ve used “ firebricks” as well as dead dry Ash and no net increases.
 
Angelo C said:
Loading and source have had no effect. I’ve used “ firebricks” as well as dead dry Ash and no net increases.
Click to expand...
Okay. I was asking because many folks starting with a stove don't load enough wood.
 
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stoveliker said:
Hm.
I was wondering if your draft was too high sucking the heat out of the stove. But 20 ft is not too tall (given a short horizontal section) for that to happen.

Not ideal to not have an insulated liner. (And likely needed for safety and code too...)
A sealed block off plate will help a lot too

Your installer was wrong on both counts.

Can you post a pic of how full you load the insert?
And some of your burning cycle?
Click to expand...
Have let a fully packed load go till embers and reload to no avail. Have cleaned out ash after 30-40 pieces burned and some improvements but not much to change my mind about the unit. The best I’ve gotten was lightly loaded with plenty of air gaps between firewood. Seems airflow is increasing with “space” . No real noticeable gains
 
stoveliker said:
Okay. I was asking because many folks starting with a stove don't load enough wood.
Click to expand...
I’m a slave to this thing and it just wants more wood.
I have 6 cords seasoned sitting and about 10 for next year. Wood is not a problem. The tree service guys I do repairs for are happy to supply logs. I have a TW6 about 40 saws and a dump truck…firewood is not an issue.
 
You are implying I said things about your firewood. I did not.
All I asked for was a pic of your load in the stove and of how the fire looks at different stages of the burn cycle.

If sawdust bricks behave similar to firewood, it's not likely the fuel.
 
Angelo C said:
It won’t warm 5’ in front of the box unless WIDE open.
Click to expand...
Do you have a thermostat on the stove? Running wide open will just waste heat up the flue and could damage the stove. Have you tried running the stove at a lower setting for the whole burn?
 
stoveliker said:
You are implying I said things about your firewood. I did not.
All I asked for was a pic of your load and of how the fire looks at different stages of the burn cycle.
Click to expand...
No, just wanted to make sure or get past the “fuel” being the issue.
Thanks.have fully loaded the box with “firebricks “ as well as all different sizes and lengths of fuel
 
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To get good help, pics will help.
People that have run the same or similar stoves may be able to see something that could help you.
 
Todd said:
Do you have a thermostat on the stove? Running wide open will just waste heat up the flue and could damage the stove. Have you tried running the stove at a lower setting for the whole burn?
Click to expand...
No thermostat
Don’t know where to place one.
Also the “automatic” fan is always running no matter how low the flame is. If that matters
 
A magnetic thermometer somewhere on the face may help guide you when to turn the stove air down. Preferably where you think it’s hottest. It’s hard with an insert but it may help.

Also check inside your firebox and see if the baffle is in place. Maybe it got out of wack during the install?
 
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Todd said:
A magnetic thermometer somewhere on the face may help guide you when to turn the stove air down. Preferably where you think it’s hottest. It’s hard with an insert but it may help.

Also check inside your firebox and see if the baffle is in place. Maybe it got out of wack during the install?
Click to expand...
Don’t know where the “baffle” is or where it should be.
Thanks.
I can see the two “air tubes” clearly
 
Pics
 

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Angelo C said:
Pics of what in particular? The loading / installation or a fully active flame pattern ?
Happy to provide any pics.
Thanks.
Click to expand...
Was this stove new or used?
 
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