New cape cod insert installed today

[JASFARMER]

i am like a little kid at Christmas! Had my new cape cod insert installed today with new insulated liner. Doing the low/slow curing burn now. It is already putting out more heat than my old indoor camp fire I used to have. The dealer told me that it will run me out of the room if I want it to. I can see already it will take some getting used to though. I've never had bypass doors or secondary burns. I have to wire in a plug in closer to cords, but for now I have a drop cord running it because I couldn't wait to get burning
Thanks to everyone that helped in my decision making process

Here are some pics. I will try to keep updated thru the week with what I've noticed.

 

[claydogg84]

Looks great! I'm STILL learning how to use my new EPA stove, so try to be patient.

 

[prezes13]

Looking good. So far you are the only one I know about other than myself who has a cape cod insert. I have no block off plate and about 13-14' of unisulated felxible ss liner and my living room dining room kitchen combo with a vaulted ceiling gets warm really quick. It is a very capable heater, but wants primo dry wood.

 

[JASFARMER]

Looking good. So far you are the only one I know about other than myself who has a cape cod insert. I have no block off plate and about 13-14' of unisulated felxible ss liner and my living room dining room kitchen combo with a vaulted ceiling gets warm really quick. It is a very capable heater, but wants primo dry wood.

I put in white oak and cherry first. Moisture was 15/16. On a side not the moisture meter I had and the one that it came with were within a point which I thought was interesting

 

[Woody Stover]

the moisture meter I had and the one that it came with were within a point which I thought was interesting

Sweet. Looking forward to hearing how this unit runs, burn times etc. Do they give instructions for use of the meter they give you, like "test on a freshly-split face?"

 

[JASFARMER]

Sweet. Looking forward to hearing how this unit runs, burn times etc. Do they give instructions for use of the meter they give you, like "test on a freshly-split face?"

I didn't see it in the directions but i thought it was common knowledge

 

[begreen]

Wish it was. Lots of people test on the end grain, getting a false reading, yet thinking their wood is dry enough.

 

[Grisu]

Sweet looking install. Does the surround not get hot? I don't think I could have mine as close to the mantel as you have it.

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Looks great...enjoy.....

 

[JASFARMER]

Sweet looking install. Does the surround not get hot? I don't think I could have mine as close to the mantel as you have it.

The surround gets warm, but you can still put your hand on it without burning. I made sure to check and the minimal to combustible measurements were from firebox itself. It had me worried at first. And it was luck the surround fit so nicely with old mantle

 

[Ram 1500 with an axe...]

Yeah, I was worried when I saw that but it looks great.....

 

[begreen]

Top, non-combustible facing is supposed to be 39" from hearth to the wood. 41.5" to mantel. Though maybe the top frame lip of the surround is acting like a mantle shield?

 

[prezes13]

Grisu and Begreen top of the surround never got hotter than 200 degrees of Fahrenheit. I have stockings hanging from my mantel, they never got even warm and I checked when stove was hot running full bore.

 

[prezes13]

I am sorry I couldn't resist.

 

[JASFARMER]

I am sorry I couldn't resist.
View attachment 147880

About how big of splits are you using. Does the insert show a lot of flame when burning wide open. Played with mine a little and am not getting a good flame, also don't think it's putting out the heat it should. I did get an overnight burn, which is something I've never experienced. I think my splits are a little large and I cannot get firebox full. Moisture is 15-16 on fresh split face of cherry. I checked about 5 pieces and all were in range. Also do you stack your firebox both directions?
The room it's in didn't get over 71 last night when I was on high. Turned it low for overnight and was about 69.

 

[Matt93eg]

Nice looking stove! Can't help you with anything on it though cause I know nothing about it.

I will say this, I went from an old Non-EPA stove last year to an EPA stove and frustration was regular for the first while. Being new to the stove was enough but not having good wood just compounded it. This year I am loving it, have figured out what it likes and what it doesn't and have a lot better wood. You will get the hang of it, just be persistent and don't let it frustrate you to the point you throw your hands up.

 

[JASFARMER]

Nice looking stove! Can't help you with anything on it though cause I know nothing about it.

I will say this, I went from an old Non-EPA stove last year to an EPA stove and frustration was regular for the first while. Being new to the stove was enough but not having good wood just compounded it. This year I am loving it, have figured out what it likes and what it doesn't and have a lot better wood. You will get the hang of it, just be persistent and don't let it frustrate you to the point you throw your hands up.

About what percent moisture are you considering good wood ? All mine has been split and stacked for over a year. All of it so far is 16 and under. I am burning it at my moms in her daka wood furnace and it's really putting out. I know comparing the furnace to the insert is like apples and oranges but I thought this wood would be dry enough.

 

[prezes13]

You have to get the stove hot I can't inmplement it enough. If I get the stove going good sometimes it's scary to look at it. I like to load S/N but due to its shallow box it doesn't happen to often. Usually I can fit 4 large splits E/W or I will put two big ones on the bottom E/W and four Eco Bricks N/S. But you have to get the stove hot. You will know when it's hot. Glass will radiate a lot of heat.

 

[JASFARMER]

You have to get the stove hot I can't inmplement it enough. If I get the stove going good sometimes it's scary to look at it. I like to load S/N but due to its shallow box it doesn't happen to often. Usually I can fit 4 large splits E/W or I will put two big ones on the bottom E/W and four Eco Bricks N/S. But you have to get the stove hot. You will know when it's hot. Glass will radiate a lot of heat.

I think that's the problem getting it hot. The glass does radiate heat but I think it should be hotter than it is. Almost like it's not getting enough air. When running wide open should it be flaming up good or just a glow from coals

 

[prezes13]

A lot of flame. You should always have a bit of flame going. When you setting for a long burn you have much less but you should have a little bit.

 

[JASFARMER]

A lot of flame. You should always have a bit of flame going. When you setting for a long burn you have much less but you should have a little bit.

See I'm not getting much flame at all. I have to open door to get flames. Does it draw air from front or back of insert. I've tried moving ash to back maybe I'm going the wrong way. I've looked in the manual but it doesn't say

 

[begreen]

Grisu and Begreen top of the surround never got hotter than 200 degrees of Fahrenheit. I have stockings hanging from my mantel, they never got even warm and I checked when stove was hot running full bore.

Your install has more than the minimum requirement for face clearance. It looks like your install has around 50" before the mantel wood starts.

 

[Matt93eg]

About what percent moisture are you considering good wood ? All mine has been split and stacked for over a year. All of it so far is 16 and under. I am burning it at my moms in her daka wood furnace and it's really putting out. I know comparing the furnace to the insert is like apples and oranges but I thought this wood would be dry enough.

I am by no means an expert but going off what the knowledgeable guys say here, good seasoned wood will be 20%MC or less. I saw before I posted earlier that you said your wood was at 16%MC so I wasn't implying your wood was your problem. Was just giving insight into my first year with an EPA stove was rocky at first due to not knowing how the stove wanted to be operated plus I didn't have wood below the 20%MC level. Most of mine last year was 25% and higher.

This year I have the stove figured out and good wood and love the stove. But even with dry wood you have to get the stove hot enough before you crank the primary air down. I typically turn the air down in stages after a reload. I find that I can judge when to turn the air down by just looking and seeing what the fire is doing through the glass door. I do keep an eye on temp once it settles in but I think some "over focus" on the temp. I use the temp kind of as a secondary measure of how the stove is doing, visual is my primary.

Your wood is good so once you figure out the stove you will be well on your way to good heat and happiness.

 

[prezes13]

You have that dog house in front, middle on the bottom. Don't block it with wood. Maybe your wood is not as dry as you think? I know it's very sensitive to quality(moisture conten) of wood. With a nice dry wood I can take my house from 60 to 70 on a single load if the temps outside are no lower than mid 20. Get IR gun and see what you are getting for temp on your stove.

 

[JASFARMER]

You have that dog house in front, middle on the bottom. Don't block it with wood. Maybe your wood is not as dry as you think? I know it's very sensitive to quality(moisture conten) of wood. With a nice dry wood I can take my house from 60 to 70 on a single load if the temps outside are no lower than mid 20. Get IR gun and see what you are getting for temp on your stove.

I'll see if I can get one. It seems more like an air flow issue because when I crack open the door it takes off really good. When door is shut and air is wide open it just makes lazy flames and they eventually go away