New Fireplace insert (Newbie questions)

[myth83]

Hello everybody,

I am new here, been reading here for a long time digging for information (and lord, this forum is a wonderful source!) and finally decided to sign up and participate.

Well, I will go straight to it-

I have built a new fireplace in my house, this is basically a fireplace insert (cast iron Jotul I-400) that has brick dressing around it.

I am new to wood burning, this is my first wood burning appliance, I have burned a dozen times without any problem, but am pretty sure that it will take me at least a few years to learn all the tricks and become knowledgeable.

I have a few questions, I was unable to find a concrete answer with the search function (maybe I just didn't use it correctly?)

1. How to know what's the max load of wood a specific size firebox is capable of taking comfortably ? (I mean, log/split length is limited to the size of the firebox, but what about the amount of splits per load?), I want to have a long lasting fire with each load, especially the first load, but I do not want to stress the firebox and go over the limits.

2. How fireplace/wood stove over-heating/over-firing can be identified ? Our insert is made out of cast iron.

3. Is it possible, if using too much wood, or too much of a certain type of wood per load - that the fireplace insert will overheat?

4. I keep my bottom air vent fully shut the whole time, since I was told air from the bottom is more for coal burning and not wood, and I am using my top air control, when I first start my fire - I open it wide open, keep it that way (15-20 minutes) until my fire is hot, then I turn it down to about half open. is that optimal ? I want a long lasting fire, but I also want a hot burning fire.. and was told that closing the air vent almost completely, will make my fire to become weaker and burn colder (despite burning a bit longer), what's the sweet spot ?

5. Should I burn mixed splits (hard/soft) ? or is it better to stick to hard woods only, and use soft woods only for kindling?

6. I have bought kiln-dried wood that is already splitted and is advertised as "ready to burn", I have checked with my humidity meter and found it the level is below 15% which seem good. is that seasoned wood ? is it good enough to burn? I have had to problem with that wood, but have heard too many times about "dried wood" that was dry, but not really seasoned.. what's the difference in term of firewood for heating?

7. How long can seasoned/dry firewood can be stored before it decays? should I maintain a rack that contain wood only for a single winter heating, or can I say.. get a big load for 2-3 winters, and just store it properly ?

Hopefully not too many questions for a first post ;-)

Thanks in advanced!

 

[bholler]

Hello everybody,

I am new here, been reading here for a long time digging for information (and lord, this forum is a wonderful source!) and finally decided to sign up and participate.

Well, I will go straight to it-

I have built a new fireplace in my house, this is basically a fireplace insert (cast iron Jotul I-400) that has brick dressing around it.

I am new to wood burning, this is my first wood burning appliance, I have burned a dozen times without any problem, but am pretty sure that it will take me at least a few years to learn all the tricks and become knowledgeable.

I have a few questions, I was unable to find a concrete answer with the search function (maybe I just didn't use it correctly?)

1. How to know what's the max load of wood a specific size firebox is capable of taking comfortably ? (I mean, log/split length is limited to the size of the firebox, but what about the amount of splits per load?), I want to have a long lasting fire with each load, especially the first load, but I do not want to stress the firebox and go over the limits.

2. How fireplace/wood stove over-heating/over-firing can be identified ? Our insert is made out of cast iron.

3. Is it possible, if using too much wood, or too much of a certain type of wood per load - that the fireplace insert will overheat?

4. I keep my bottom air vent fully shut the whole time, since I was told air from the bottom is more for coal burning and not wood, and I am using my top air control, when I first start my fire - I open it wide open, keep it that way (15-20 minutes) until my fire is hot, then I turn it down to about half open. is that optimal ? I want a long lasting fire, but I also want a hot burning fire.. and was told that closing the air vent almost completely, will make my fire to become weaker and burn colder (despite burning a bit longer), what's the sweet spot ?

5. Should I burn mixed splits (hard/soft) ? or is it better to stick to hard woods only, and use soft woods only for kindling?

6. I have bought kiln-dried wood that is already splitted and is advertised as "ready to burn", I have checked with my humidity meter and found it the level is below 15% which seem good. is that seasoned wood ? is it good enough to burn? I have had to problem with that wood, but have heard too many times about "dried wood" that was dry, but not really seasoned.. what's the difference in term of firewood for heating?

7. How long can seasoned/dry firewood can be stored before it decays? should I maintain a rack that contain wood only for a single winter heating, or can I say.. get a big load for 2-3 winters, and just store it properly ?

Hopefully not too many questions for a first post ;-)

Thanks in advanced!

I am a little concerned about the comment that you have an insert with some brick dressing around it. Is the insert in a full code compliant firebox? What chimney is it hooked to?

 

[bholler]

Ok I read the install instructions and this "insert" doesn't need a real firebox. As long as you followed their instructions carefully for building the surround you are fine. My bad

 

[begreen]

Welcome. We don't see this insert in the US, so the advice is more general. It is very confusing that Jotul gave this insert the model designation of their existing F400 freestanding stove that has been sold for almost two decades. That is confusing. On the i400 insert, the lower vent is called the ignition vent. It is similar to a boost air vent and helps with fire starting. Have both vents open when starting the fire, then close the lower vent once the fire has started burning well and use the upper vent to control combustion air.

As long as the wood is dry, both soft and hard woods are ok to burn. Softwood will ignite and burn faster. This makes it good for fall and spring fires when you want a shorter fire and a quick burst of heat. Hardwoods can provide more heat over a longer period of time depending on the wood species.

You should be able to put a decent load of firewood in the insert. Jotul recommends a thermometer be placed on the upper face of the insert and to keep the temperature reading below 280ºC. Larger, thicker log splits will burn slower and longer. Turn down the air in steps as the fire is building strength so that it doesn't overheat. When the fire starts burning well, close down the air until the flames start getting lazy. Then wait until the flames get strong and turn down the air again.

Wood can be stored for a long time if it stays dry. How long depends somewhat on the species of wood. Some wood decays quicker than others. If the wood is not in a woodshed, covering the tops of the stacks can help keep it better. It is not unusual to have good hardwood like oak stacked and drying for 2-3 years. When testing wood for moisture be sure to split it open first and then test on the freshly exposed face of wood. Never test on the end grain.

 

[myth83]

Ok I read the install instructions and this "insert" doesn't need a real firebox. As long as you followed their instructions carefully for building the surround you are fine. My bad

Thank you for your reply.

Yes, this is a type of a „stand alone“ insert, which means that it could actually function fully even without the bricking.
Not the other type that requires to be retro fitted into a brick open fireplace.

It is connected to a brand new insulated brick chimney that has a 1mm thick stainless steel liner which is the actual flu, the whole system was built by a certified fireplace builder, then inspected and approved - here in Germany it is not allowed to operate a new wood burning appliance without confirming to codes and getting an approval from a chimney sweep.

I would be glad if I would get answers to my other questions as well

Myth

 

[bholler]

Thank you for your reply.

Yes, this is a type of a „stand alone“ insert, which means that it could actually function fully even without the bricking.
Not the other type that requires to be retro fitted into a brick open fireplace.

It is connected to a brand new insulated brick chimney that has a 1mm thick stainless steel liner which is the actual flu, the whole system was built by a certified fireplace builder, then inspected and approved - here in Germany it is not allowed to operate a new wood burning appliance without confirming to codes and getting an approval from a chimney sweep.

I would be glad if I would get answers to my other questions as well

Myth

Yes I realized what you had after my first post. I just wish they hadn't called it an insert. It just adds to the confusion that is already there between inserts fireplaces and stoves.

I don't know the stove at all so I really can't give you much in the way of details for operation. But begreen gave you some pretty good general advice.

 

[myth83]

Yes I realized what you had after my first post. I just wish they hadn't called it an insert. It just adds to the confusion that is already there between inserts fireplaces and stoves.

I don't know the stove at all so I really can't give you much in the way of details for operation. But begreen gave you some pretty good general advice.

Yes it is probably confusing.

There are such „inserts“ here, that are built either to be retro fitted into an existing fireplace as „cassette“, as well as operate stand alone, depending on installation.

Thank you, I appreciate your input in any case


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[myth83]

Welcome. We don't see this insert in the US, so the advice is more general. It is very confusing that Jotul gave this insert the model designation of their existing F400 freestanding stove that has been sold for almost two decades. That is confusing. On the i400 insert, the lower vent is called the ignition vent. It is similar to a boost air vent and helps with fire starting. Have both vents open when starting the fire, then close the lower vent once the fire has started burning well and use the upper vent to control combustion air.

As long as the wood is dry, both soft and hard woods are ok to burn. Softwood will ignite and burn faster. This makes it good for fall and spring fires when you want a shorter fire and a quick burst of heat. Hardwoods can provide more heat over a longer period of time depending on the wood species.

You should be able to put a decent load of firewood in the insert. Jotul recommends a thermometer be placed on the upper face of the insert and to keep the temperature reading below 280ºC. Larger, thicker log splits will burn slower and longer. Turn down the air in steps as the fire is building strength so that it doesn't overheat. When the fire starts burning well, close down the air until the flames start getting lazy. Then wait until the flames get strong and turn down the air again.

Wood can be stored for a long time if it stays dry. How long depends somewhat on the species of wood. Some wood decays quicker than others. If the wood is not in a woodshed, covering the tops of the stacks can help keep it better. It is not unusual to have good hardwood like oak stacked and drying for 2-3 years. When testing wood for moisture be sure to split it open first and then test on the freshly exposed face of wood. Never test on the end grain.

Thank you so much for the invaluable info!


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