- Jan 8, 2022
One has no power...one does!
NP,will be around for a bit.We are going to start with the hose...you have been very helpful sir. I thank you kindly.
Okay, once I exhaust the above option I'll order the jumper cable and give it a try. It is currently -23 with wind chill. I'm missing my stove, even though I'm glaring at it lol.By pass, jump, the vacuum switch and see if that gets it going....of course unplug if first when installing bypass or jumper wires.. Troubleshooting is a process, go thru the steps listed in the above service manual and you should be good.
Okay, I got the vacuum switch off and removed from the hose. There was some fine dust inside of it. I think I got the majority out, new on it and no click...however it does click when its being tapped or moved around...normal? Bad? It does click when I suck air out of it. Yay!If hose/nipple is open,you should be able to see dust moving inside stove burn area,with compressed air, but door would have to be open,it is a small hose and nipple.
If so,remove vacuum switch and tap nipple into your hand and see if ashes come out. If so,keep tapping. You can check switch by sucking on it,you should hear a click. If so,you can test with an ohm meter across the terminals, should have continuity when sucking on it.
How this works-- when stove starts, combustion motor starts. It draws a vacuum inside the stove. The stove senses this through the hose and switch, and allows the auger to function. If any of the gaskets are in bad shape,IE hopper,door, ash door, stove might not make enough vacuum to run, or cause intermitten problems.
The nipple is open. I'm able to get air inside the vacuum. It clicks when the stove is plugged in and reset to function.You will not "buy a jumper/bypass. It is simply 2 terminals crimped to a short wire.
You need to make sure that nipple is open.
Yes,the hoses get old and stuck to the nipples,you may have to ruin it to get it off,but I would twist/turn it with pliers a little,it will come loose,then can be pulled off.
All these switches are safety switches,although the hopper ones can be troublesome, so many leave them unhooked.Many stoves do not have them.
Putting in a "bypass" on any other switch is considered for testing,not long term,and stove should only be used when you are home.
I'll have to see if we have any of those kicking around the garage.You can take vacuum switch to any auto repair shop or parts store and they can help you test it. Also,any shop would make you a few "jumpers" for next to nothing, and a parts store,or home depot,harbor freight,hardware store can sell you a cheap terminal pack which includes the crimpers,and a bit of wire.
Heck,for testing,you could jump the wires with a paper clip, and tape it up well.
The terminals are this-
View attachment 289937
Okay, I did that and the auger started working! So at this point I have ordered a new vacuum switch. The stove is disconnected and awaiting a new switch. I pray this works. I thank you all for helping me.Take a pic of the wires connected to the vacuum switch for reference, unplug the unit, take a piece of wire preferably with male spades at each end, or as mentioned above a paper clip, or wire stripped at each end and pushed into the female wires ends, or even mini alligator clips, disconnect wires at vacuum switch connect the jumper wire to the two wires, wrap connection with electrical tape, that bypasses the switch, again this for testing mode only. The switches are safety switches for user safety..