No fan on low manual setting.

[Ssyko]

One other thing i just thought of, have you ever looked at the cap on the chimney? Is there a screen or something that could get Clogged up? Maybe a damaged rain cap?

 

[green wood]

we will look......but i certainly wouldnt think so. All the pipe and cap and the roof it goes through is all new 2 years ago. ?

 

[kappel15]

You said the auger is turning, but not feeding. Is it turning backwards? This would indicate a bad capacitor. kap

 

[green wood]

ok so on the auger.....it was turning only when we had the vac switch jumped with the jumper i made........ but it actually wasnt feeding fuel.......
After pulling the auger.....the auger wasnt tight on spiral/rod? part itself...the keeper screw came loose. so now the auger is functioning correctly and turning clock wise. i would assume clock wize was correct. so that was ONE problem solved that was part of the mix. im goin to attempt the dollar bill test here in a bit. thanks for following this.....what a disaster!!

 

[green wood]

Well. Dollar stays tight all around the door..... except couldn't test the top...I'm assuming that's normal since there is no rope along the top. Can or should we jump the vac switch and snap disc 2 at the same time ? Sorry if that sounds like a dumb question....just wondering...... I only have one jumper wire....so I've only been able to either jump the snap disc and leave the vac switch hooked up....or vice versa
Does that matter? We're not sure how the snap disc work. When we jump the snap disc and leave the vac hooked up.....we get no auger. If we reverse.....we get auger and stove starts
How risky is it to leave the vac switch jumped. ????? What can happen .

 

[kappel15]

They are both safety features. If the stove gets too hot, like due to the conv. fan not coming on, it will trip Snap disc #2, shutting power to auger. The vac switch will shut power off to auger if exhaust is plugged, glass breaks, door is open. Anything that will cause the loss of vacuum in firebox. Leaving vac switch jumped is iffy, but (disclaimer inserted here), but doable. But I wouldn't make a habit of it. If door seals, and exhaust path is clear from stove to top of pipe, and nipple and hose are clear, that only leaves the vac switch. kap

 

[green wood]

Stove ran perfect on low all night.

This is orginal switch.....I just noticed some one hand wrote. Orange wire. Red wire by terminals. Does this matter????
Maybe that's the issue ....I never paid attention if they have to be a certain way ?


I was going to call the switch company where I bought the new one and check on warranty?

 

[Ssyko]

Shouldn’t matter which wire the switch is just completing a circut. Either the new switch is bad or its the wrong vac setting for it to close

 

[green wood]

Ok thanks......yeah. Our luck it's bad! Brand new! It's the exact switch that came out of it right down to the part number. We ordered it directly from the manufacturer thinking we did a good thing. Rather than buying aftmarket junk off line. We are calling them now. See if there is a warranty.

 

[green wood]

Ok we just got off the phone with cleveland controls. Confirmed doesnt matter which wire goes where coming from stove. Told us we could send it back for them to test if we wanted. they highly doubted we got a defective switch...... OR we could disconnect hose from fire pot....suck into that and crimp it tight....to see if the switch did its job. Kind of a crude test...but we will try that.

we noticed the similiar switch on a google ad price at Grainger for less than half of what we paid buying it directly from cleveland controls!

 

[green wood]

Question....when I cleaned out the rear exhaust pipe that goes into the outlet exhaust up thru the ceiling. .....should it be solid or does it have any wiggle to it.? Didn't seem to be solid..... don't know if thats normal. ? Thanks.

 

[Ssyko]

What your pointing to looks like a duravent appliance adapter, it should fit over the exhaust manifold fairly tight with a silicone sealant on the inside. I also use 3 self tapping screws but not everyone does

 

[green wood]

No I'm just pointing at the location of where I speak of.......the piece that the exhaust pipe slides over..... it's the .part of the stove I'm speaking of. It's not super tight. Has a lil play.... didn't know if that was normal. 23 is the part I'm speaking of in the pic below

 

[green wood]

Sorry....

 

[Ssyko]

Ok thats the manifold. Usually they are tight and have sealant around them along with screws or rivets.

 

[green wood]

Hmmm. Il have to get in there then and look. When I took off pipe. I grabbed it to vaccum it out and it moved. Maybe that s the vacuum problem???

 

[MalcolmH]

The entire manifold might have movement/flex depending on the stove, they don't have much support except where it connects to the fire box and you have a lot of leverage that far away to move it slightly, my Windsor moves a bit if you reef on it.

 

[green wood]

UPDATE.............................so called manufact or vacuum switch and they told me i could preform a quick crude test. disconnect vac hose at fire box and suck the vacumm hose to see if the vac switch is working. sure enough..we did that...and the stove instantly turned on and fired up. Been running for days now...just fine. I dont know if these vac switches need primed or what...but that fixed it!! so far so good................I WANT TO THANK ALL THE FOLKS ON THIS FORUM THAT CHIMED IN AND SENT ME PM'S TRYING TO HELP US............we really appreciate it. Thank you.

 

[kappel15]

Thanks for letting us know. Glad you figured it out. Stay warm. kap