Squisher
Minister of Fire
are you straight up off the stove or two 90's? What's your burning wood of choice? What do you use to monitor temps?
Pacific Energy failed baffle
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(2) 45's are included in that figure, wood of choice is Ash, Cherry, Elm, and a little Oak
Squisher
Minister of Fire
My summit is a b series pedestal and I have two 90's going up a 20' masonry chimney lined with a undersized uninsulated liner. Interior masonry chimney. With my configuration I can hit about 900 stovetop when a reload is neglected. But it won't go full on crazy overfire I find. I monitor stovetop and stovepipe temps, and I run hot. Clean soot, I'm burning efficiently and cleanly.
I would suspect you could be overdrafting with that much pipe and hotter wood. But to know for sure you'll have to measure your draft or at the least monitor your temps closely.
I would suspect you could be overdrafting with that much pipe and hotter wood. But to know for sure you'll have to measure your draft or at the least monitor your temps closely.
Final option shows a PE air control
http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm
http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm
Squisher
Minister of Fire
That's what I'd be looking to expirement with if I had a taller stack or was warping baffles or side rails.
Of course as a sweep I would never endorse modifying a certified appliance.
Of course as a sweep I would never endorse modifying a certified appliance.
I do burn hot, usually keeping my stove top around 750 deg. F, it sometimes creeps higher, but not by much, and this is at full shut down. I measure my stove top temperature with a magnetic thermometer and an infrared gun. I monitor my stack temp with a FlueGuard probe. One problem I have noticed over the years, is my stack temp is higher than I would like, usually around 500 deg. What that says to me is that I am sending too much heat up the chimney, and wasting it. After reading begreens article about bungalow syndrome, maybe I do need some sort of draft control, to keep the heat in the stove.
Squisher
Minister of Fire
Side note, I have already done that, when I noticed my stove never got to the lazy slow flame state. Rather than permanently modifying the stove I siliconed a piece of steel over the opening allowing almost complete shut down. This way it can easily be removed if necessary. The one thing I haven't looked into is the EBT valve to make sure it is functioning properly. All stuff I'll do tomorrow. Thanks all for the input, hopefully, I'll know more after I hear from PE, and Squisher, I'll probably have a few more questions for you since we have the same stove. 
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Do those stoves use tubes or baffles? Stainless steel or plate steel? Stainless while good, when spanning 20+ inches is going to sag. I think the newer baffles may have stiffeners, not sure, which seems to make them bow upward at front, when the old ones would sag at front. The all belly down a little at least in the middle.
I'm running 27' and while I have a strong draft, nothing that causes hard draft and premature burning of the fuel. If you're getting good burn times, and not pegging the thermo, then overly strong draft is not your problem.
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
Hogz those stoves had tubes, not sure if they were stainless or not, but they were beefy. My burns times are quite good, but I feel they could be better. Part of that may be the wood I'm using. I do know my door needs a new seal, can't find the right size locally (7/8" medium density) so looks like I'll have to order one.
Squisher
Minister of Fire
I would recommend getting a factory gasket and making sure the door is adjusted properly for a positive seal. You can tighten the door latch by simply 'whacking' the door catch tab with a rubber mallet.
Do you know of a place online that I can order an OEM gasket , or do I need to go to a dealer. Especially since mine (about 10 minutes from my house) is closing up shop.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Unless PE changed the gasket they use, they always used to be high density graphite boated 7'8" flat style gaskets. I found the materials at the local ACE hardware last time I replaced the gasket. Tom at chimneysaweeponline can get you one if you can't get it locally.
Here's what my manual says:
"DOOR GASKETS - The gasket used by Pacific Energy
(7/8"(22mm) medium density fiberglass rope) requires only light
pressure to seal. This will prolong seal life. It is important that the
door seal be maintained in good condition. Periodically inspect
seals and replace if necessary. Follow instructions included
in the DR31.WDGKIT, kit obtainable from your nearest Pacific Energy Dealer"
7/8" seems to to be an odd size that not many people carry" Will try OEM
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7/8" is also used on some Lopi/Avalon wood and pellet stoves, but it can be hard to locate, even in the PNW.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Hmm, they don't go into specifics in the A & B body manual. not even size. The C model insert states 7/8" but no density. They should get all the manuals inline with each other.
Agreed. Our T6 takes a 3/8" gasket. I tried low density (Rutland) and high density (Meeco) and neither worked well. Third try was the expensive PE factory gasket and that sealed correctly. I would call it a medium density gasket with more weaves in the core than the Rutland.
Update: finally received a reply from PE and they referred me to a Distributor in Kentucky, if I couldn't contact my dealer. While I was waiting for a reply from PE, I happened to see the dealer in his parking lot (his store is on my daily route to the grocery store). He informed me he was "getting a new job" which I took as a little odd coming from the owner of a private business, anyway that is irrelevant. He looked at my baffle and said it was shot, he took a picture with his phone, took down my name and address in his phone and said PE would ship a new one directly to me. From the look on this man's face he just wanted to get out of there. Anyone have any advice on how to proceed, as the baffle is clearly warped beyond factory specifications? I did email PE back asking them if I should be working through them or the Distributor in KY, will wait for their reply.
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Easy Livin’ 3000
Minister of Fire
Interesting story. His demeanor and words may be completely relevant. If it were me, I would trust my instincts, and get over to that dealer in KY, lest I be left waiting on some flake for my winter heat.
Fort Wisers
Burning Hunk
Agreed, this sounds just like what we're going through trying to get a warranty claim through on our stove. Claim is approved according to the distributor but finding a dealer that will actually work with us since our original dealer closed down has been a challenge. We're hoping this latest dealer we have contacted works out better then the last.
Good luck.
Thanks Ed, no real way of getting over to the distributor in Kentucky, I'm in Michigan. Here's where I see a real problem with only using local dealers as a way to get warranty work resolved. I bought a PE at the recommendation of the LOCAL dealer; stove looked good, had good reviews on hearth.com, and the dealer did the install, so I thought I had a strong support system. Fast forward to today, I have a part that has failed beyond specifications, not just according to the PE dealer, but by PE as well, according to their manual.
Here's the problem, my local PE dealer has gone belly up, and PE doesn't respond to emails in a timely manner; my local utility responds more quickly, so that should tell you something. First response took 5 days, my second question is on day 3, and with the weekend here, it will be another 5 days for a response, at best.
I guess I'll call the distributor in KY, due to the lack of response from PE. I have been given the number direct to PE, but my phone doesn't support calls to Canada. I like my stove, but hate their customer service. Given the opportunity for a do-over, I'm afraid I would choose a different manufacturer next time.
Easy Livin’ 3000
Minister of Fire
Ugh! Sorry to hear this. I didn't realize you were so far away from Kentucky. Real bummer that the customer service is so rotten from PE and that they referred you to a dealer so far away.
One day, hopefully not too far out, this whole internet thing will live up to it's potential. It'll connect us with the stuff we need and make our reliance on a few local dealers obsolete. It'll also make manufacturers take care of their customers or go out of business.
I can't stand my local dealer, which sucks because they are so close by. Which is why I took a flyer and ordered a stove online. Felt like a big risk, but it showed up on the back of a truck as promised. Since then, I've had two baffles crack in half, and they've sent me three replacements under warranty, including an upgrade to a better material. Seems that the company that plans to interact directly with their customer doesn't hide behind their dealer network.
Good luck getting this resolved. I'd be going nuts as winter rapidly approaches. I wonder if there is someone who has access to your part on this forum who could hook you up?
I got my Summit from my local dealer just west of Fort Wayne, IN. Don't know if they could help quicker than the Kentucky distributor. The guys here have good response time.
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