PE Summit gasket measurements?

[SKIN052]

Looking at making my own baffle gasket similar to Hog, while the stove cools down, any idea on the dimensions? Thanks in advance.

 

[begreen]

I would guess about 12". If you got a foot of 3/8" gasket you would be fine. If you got 10yrds you could go into business. lol

 

[Hogwildz]

3/8" rope gasket worked best so far. Your going to need about 16" to 18" of gasket material.
12" of this will be the actual gasket, the rest you will leave evenly extra on each end, to use to braid/tie the two ends together.

 

[madison]

As hog stated,cut it longer than you think once you start messing with tying the frayed ends you will need the extra length. If it is too long once tied, just leave the extra on the left and right side of the vertical channel. It takes a bit of squeezing to get the pin back in, or, leave the pin out for a bit and wait for the baffle weight to flatten the gasket enough to get the pin in.

if you see any flat gasket material, ie window gasket, it would be fun to try that material as well. and report back if the flat gasket can be tied successfully.

 

[SKIN052]

In my search for my spare rope gasket I remembered I had used it to fix up an old 12 hr burner at the cabin. Dang that plan. I did find an old welding blanket and said, why not Took out the baffle and measured the hole and added about 1/4" lip all the way around. Cut out a piece about 2 1/4" by by 3 1/2" with some tin snips and gave it a try, seems to work very well. Secondaries kicked in strong and being that it is a mild day, I was impressed. It's gotta be better than what was there before, nothing. The original gasket lasted half a season. Hopefully a little better with this one.

Pic of Gasket and welding blanket I cut it from,

Secondaries after a fresh reload,

Pardon the pic quality, new Christmas camera we are getting accustom to.

 

[raybonz]

Good idea Skin! Wish I had some of that blanket kicking around here as that seems like the perfect and easiest solution.. Hogs idea works but requires some braiding but your idea just requires scissors..

Ray

 

[oldspark]

So how much you selling them for? :lol: I installed 2 of the PE standard ones last summer and they are already broke and hanging down.

 

[raybonz]

So how much you selling them for? :lol: I installed 2 of the PE standard ones last summer and they are already broke and hanging down.

How much do those gaskets cost?

Ray

 

[SKIN052]

No idea of the cost of the original gasket but even if it were $1.00 it would be a rip off, the suck. Old Spark if you were any where near by I would make you a lifetimes worth. I have enough material to make at least 20 of these.

 

[Hogwildz]

As hog stated,cut it longer than you think once you start messing with tying the frayed ends you will need the extra length. If it is too long once tied, just leave the extra on the left and right side of the vertical channel. It takes a bit of squeezing to get the pin back in, or, leave the pin out for a bit and wait for the baffle weight to flatten the gasket enough to get the pin in.

if you see any flat gasket material, ie window gasket, it would be fun to try that material as well. and report back if the flat gasket can be tied successfully.

The flat window gasket does not hold up worth a crap. Tried it.

 

[Hogwildz]

No idea of the cost of the original gasket but even if it were $1.00 it would be a rip off, the suck. Old Spark if you were any where near by I would make you a lifetimes worth. I have enough material to make at least 20 of these.

The PE gasket are about $3 a pc, and worth crap.
To make OS a gasket or two and mail them would cost only postage.

 

[SKIN052]

Just checked after my second reload today and I was able to turn the draft all the way down for the first time this season. Maybe just wishful thinking but it seems to be making a big difference.

Old Spark, P.M. me your address and I will send you enough material to make 2 or 3. Suggest you cut them yourself though since it does tend to fray a little and it might get damaged too much during shipping.

 

[GeneralBill]

I did find an old welding blanket and said, why not Took out the baffle and measured the hole and added about 1/4" lip all the way around. Cut out a piece about 2 1/4" by by 3 1/2" with some tin snips and gave it a try, seems to work very well.

A welding blanket gasket might seem fine, but in the long run you may regret it. Any time anyone is within twenty feet, they will need to put on the goggles or risk eye damage.

Good luck! and good idea.

 

[Hogwildz]

While the baffle gasket is there for a reason I am sure. They do not seal that great due to the front area not having anything there to support then gasket. The gasket tends to sag there as there is nothing under it at the front.
These baffles, at least on the Summit, do have secondary burn holes in the back under that bent over lip on the back bottom of the baffle. So if you see secondary flames fanning out from the back, it is intended to be that way. Most likely to more evenly burn the load and burn the gases that accumulate in the back of the fire box.

As far as eye damage, maybe yes when tinkering with the gasket, but once it is in the stove, it really is not an issue.

Skin, if you have enough and can send me a pc to make 1 gasket, I have some ideas I have been experimenting with with the rope gasket, that I would like to try with the welding blanket material. If yuou have it great, if not, no worries. Shoot me a PM if you do and I will dens you my mailing addy.
And Kudos to you for helping OS out!
I sent someone a gasket I made for them, but can't remember who it was. Wondering how it is holding up?

 

[raybonz]

While the baffle gasket is there for a reason I am sure. They do not seal that great due to the front area not having anything there to support then gasket. The gasket tends to sag there as there is nothing under it at the front.
These baffles, at least on the Summit, do have secondary burn holes in the back under that bent over lip on the back bottom of the baffle. So if you see secondary flames fanning out from the back, it is intended to be that way. Most likely to more evenly burn the load and burn the gases that accumulate in the back of the fire box.

As far as eye damage, maybe yes when tinkering with the gasket, but once it is in the stove, it really is not an issue.

Skin, if you have enough and can send me a pc to make 1 gasket, I have some ideas I have been experimenting with with the rope gasket, that I would like to try with the welding blanket material. If yuou have it great, if not, no worries. Shoot me a PM if you do and I will dens you my mailing addy.
And Kudos to you for helping OS out!
I sent someone a gasket I made for them, but can't remember who it was. Wondering how it is holding up?

Hi Hogs,
I have never taken the T-5 apart as it was just installed this year but will next spring.. I was wondering what you think about using Roxul insulation to create a gasket.. It's easy to cut and should handle the heat so might make a good candidate for a gasket.. I don't mind paying $3.00 for a gasket but I do mind driving 45 minutes to get to the PE dealer.. I do like the welding blanket idea and will have see if I can locate any..

Ray

 

[Hogwildz]

While the baffle gasket is there for a reason I am sure. They do not seal that great due to the front area not having anything there to support then gasket. The gasket tends to sag there as there is nothing under it at the front.
These baffles, at least on the Summit, do have secondary burn holes in the back under that bent over lip on the back bottom of the baffle. So if you see secondary flames fanning out from the back, it is intended to be that way. Most likely to more evenly burn the load and burn the gases that accumulate in the back of the fire box.

As far as eye damage, maybe yes when tinkering with the gasket, but once it is in the stove, it really is not an issue.

Skin, if you have enough and can send me a pc to make 1 gasket, I have some ideas I have been experimenting with with the rope gasket, that I would like to try with the welding blanket material. If yuou have it great, if not, no worries. Shoot me a PM if you do and I will dens you my mailing addy.
And Kudos to you for helping OS out!
I sent someone a gasket I made for them, but can't remember who it was. Wondering how it is holding up?

Hi Hogs,
I have never taken the T-5 apart as it was just installed this year but will next spring.. I was wondering what you think about using Roxul insulation to create a gasket.. It's easy to cut and should handle the heat so might make a good candidate for a gasket.. I don't mind paying $3.00 for a gasket but I do mind driving 45 minutes to get to the PE dealer.. I do like the welding blanket idea and will have see if I can locate any..

Ray

I have never seen nor handles Roxul, so can't really say. If it looks like it will work, make a gasket and try it. Even if it fails, it won't hurt anything.
Changing and buying a new gasket every year is a pita, and bullshit as far as I am concerned. PE could make a better gasket any day of the week. It is nothing but a money thing on parts. Figure how many folks clean each year and order a new gasket each year x $3.00 = a good stack of dollars.

 

[raybonz]

While the baffle gasket is there for a reason I am sure. They do not seal that great due to the front area not having anything there to support then gasket. The gasket tends to sag there as there is nothing under it at the front.
These baffles, at least on the Summit, do have secondary burn holes in the back under that bent over lip on the back bottom of the baffle. So if you see secondary flames fanning out from the back, it is intended to be that way. Most likely to more evenly burn the load and burn the gases that accumulate in the back of the fire box.

As far as eye damage, maybe yes when tinkering with the gasket, but once it is in the stove, it really is not an issue.

Skin, if you have enough and can send me a pc to make 1 gasket, I have some ideas I have been experimenting with with the rope gasket, that I would like to try with the welding blanket material. If yuou have it great, if not, no worries. Shoot me a PM if you do and I will dens you my mailing addy.
And Kudos to you for helping OS out!
I sent someone a gasket I made for them, but can't remember who it was. Wondering how it is holding up?

Hi Hogs,
I have never taken the T-5 apart as it was just installed this year but will next spring.. I was wondering what you think about using Roxul insulation to create a gasket.. It's easy to cut and should handle the heat so might make a good candidate for a gasket.. I don't mind paying $3.00 for a gasket but I do mind driving 45 minutes to get to the PE dealer.. I do like the welding blanket idea and will have see if I can locate any..

Ray

I have never seen nor handles Roxul, so can't really say. If it looks like it will work, make a gasket and try it. Even if it fails, it won't hurt anything.
Changing and buying a new gasket every year is a pita, and bullshit as far as I am concerned. PE could make a better gasket any day of the week. It is nothing but a money thing on parts. Figure how many folks clean each year and order a new gasket each year x $3.00 = a good stack of dollars.

I agree this gasket should last longer than a year.. Aside from this I hope the T-5 doesn't need much else.. My CDW spoiled me when it came to part usage and this was one of the reasons I bought the T-5..

Ray

 

[oldspark]

Cool I will PM you my address now.

 

[Hogwildz]

Aside from the baffle gasket, you should not need anything else for years to come. I did the door gasket a few times, mostly my own doing. You know about my baffle gasket adventures. I did the glass gasket cause i scratched the original glass up and got tired of seeing it that way.
The only other mishap was the cracking of the welds etc. I have a feeling that was limited to those certain years productions.

 

[raybonz]

Aside from the baffle gasket, you should not need anything else for years to come. I did the door gasket a few times, mostly my own doing. You know about my baffle gasket adventures. I did the glass gasket cause i scratched the original glass up and got tired of seeing it that way.
The only other mishap was the cracking of the welds etc. I have a feeling that was limited to those certain years productions.

Yes I read all about the cracked welds and the most recent and best development was Sisu getting a new firebox.. Apparently all the cracked welds are in the inserts only.. I will replace my glass gasket in the spring as well as I know it has 2 small air leaks that cause 2 dark streaks but the stove burns OK as-is.. So far I love how easy it is to run the T-5 and it's very efficient plus very long burn times.. Thanx for all the info!

Ray

 

[madison]

As hog stated,cut it longer than you think once you start messing with tying the frayed ends you will need the extra length. If it is too long once tied, just leave the extra on the left and right side of the vertical channel. It takes a bit of squeezing to get the pin back in, or, leave the pin out for a bit and wait for the baffle weight to flatten the gasket enough to get the pin in.

if you see any flat gasket material, ie window gasket, it would be fun to try that material as well. and report back if the flat gasket can be tied successfully.

The flat window gasket does not hold up worth a crap. Tried it.

Interesting Hog, did it burn, disintegrate, tear or all of the above?

 

[iceman]

Is it possible to take hog gasket and wrap it with the blanket and sew it? It would best of both worlds and last forever.....

 

[Hogwildz]

As hog stated,cut it longer than you think once you start messing with tying the frayed ends you will need the extra length. If it is too long once tied, just leave the extra on the left and right side of the vertical channel. It takes a bit of squeezing to get the pin back in, or, leave the pin out for a bit and wait for the baffle weight to flatten the gasket enough to get the pin in.

if you see any flat gasket material, ie window gasket, it would be fun to try that material as well. and report back if the flat gasket can be tied successfully.

The flat window gasket does not hold up worth a crap. Tried it.

Interesting Hog, did it burn, disintegrate, tear or all of the above?

If I remember correctly, it disintegrated on one corner. It may have actually worn through from the baffle itself.
I used it on the baffle with the pre sticky side sticking onto the bottom baffle surface and flapped the folded edge into the baffle opening. I then put the 3/8" hog gasket on in place where the old PE gasket goes. The window gasket did not hold up, but the 3/8" did. I got 3yrs out of it I think. Only one side went bad on the 3/8" gasket. I thik more due to the baffle sliding around on it. The baffle even with the pin in place, will slide a little one side or the other in front, which prolly pinches and wear the gasket at rear.

 

[Hogwildz]

Is it possible to take hog gasket and wrap it with the blanket and sew it? It would best of both worlds and last forever.....

Kinda think that is over engineering. Not sure where to get thread that would hold up to the heat. and the added thickness will make it a pain in the ass to get the pin back in. I have 5/8" gasket in there now and that ain't working out so great. Still sagging down in the front where there is no support for that portion of the gasket.
Just looking to find a material that lasts the longest. So far, its 3 or 4 years for the 3/8" rope gasket.
Some kind of metal gasket wrapped in fireproof fabric would prolly be the way to go. Sort of like a car engine gasket.

 

[raybonz]

Is it possible to take hog gasket and wrap it with the blanket and sew it? It would best of both worlds and last forever.....

Kinda think that is over engineering. Not sure where to get thread that would hold up to the heat. and the added thickness will make it a pain in the ass to get the pin back in. I have 5/8" gasket in there now and that ain't working out so great. Still sagging down in the front where there is no support for that portion of the gasket.
Just looking to find a material that lasts the longest. So far, its 3 or 4 years for the 3/8" rope gasket.
Some kind of metal gasket wrapped in fireproof fabric would prolly be the way to go. Sort of like a car engine gasket.

This site may give you ideas..

http://www.allstategasket.com/index.asp

Ray