With all the different splitter threads passing through the wonderful hearth.com, I don't believe I have ever seen one dedicated to designs and functions (good or bad). I have built a few splitters in my time and would like to throw out a few things to take into consideration. The following post is in no way affiliated to hearth.com and is the sole opinion of the writer. ;-)
I have personally found that I prefer the splitting wedge to be mounted at the end of the splitter on the I-beam. This will allow for the split logs to fall into a pile at the end of the splitter, not on my feet. This will also allow a large pile to accumulate without moving the splitter. Even better yet, as the pile grows, the next log split will often push into the pile and move the splitter backwards FOR me. Downside is: can't be used with a splitter that has both vertical and horizontal splitting positions. Splitting wedge on the cylinder: only upside I am aware of is for vertical position of the splitter, possibly one could consider the handy position of the "split" pieces if additional splitting is needed.
Vertical vs. horizontal: this is almost as hot of subject as cat vs. non-cat. Vertical- allows large rounds to be moved "on the ground" into splitting position without lifting. The obvious positive side is not lifting the logs. Obvious down side is moving each split out of the way to set up for the next split. Another thought (and this is important to me) always working at ground level, bending over to man handle the pieces, even if they are only 12" rounds. Some people would rather bend all day then to lift, I personally will lift, so that I can stand upright, this is a personal pref, I am sure. Horizontal - standing upright at a working height. Assuming that the wedge is at the end of the I-beam, wood will "pile" itself.
Loglifts - not needed on vertical/horizontal models, but for horizontal models I would highly suggest it. As you may have picked up from above, I am aging (not even gracefully, darn it), and a log lift is a great gift to the back. Vertical models aren't really an option for me (back won't take it) so horizontal it is. For large rounds, the lift is a god send. Also, most log lifts can second as a workstation platform when not actually lifting. If you don't split big stuff, or actually like lifting 250 pound rounds, feel free to omit it.
Electric start - personal preference, also may depend on the engine used. A 5.5 Honda may pull over pretty easy when cold, but a 12 hp Kohler pulling a large pump with cold hydraulic fluid may not.
Pump - one stage vs. 2 stage: unless you have a power plant with hp to burn, it is almost always best to use a 2 stage pump. This allows a small hp engine to produce high pressure when it needs to grunt and high volume when it doesn't.
Tonnage rating: tough subject - I think you will find that many of the home owner versions of splitters have some version of alien math applied to be rated at the tonnage they claim, some do not. So the following is referring to "real" tonnage applied. Basically I have found that a 24 ton splitter will handle the VAST majority of splitting needs, and a 30 ton will handle everything else (including engine blocks). This can raise heavy debate, we have seen reviews (from Elk and others) of the 4 ton splitters that do a fine job, but I doubt that you would roll a 45" elm round up on them and expect it to be graceful.
I know there are many other "hot" topics in log splitters like "is it street legal", how many gallons of hydro fluid, etc. that can be touched on here as well. Others will have opposing opinions to mine and these are very welcome. Hopefully this thread may raise ideas and thoughts and answer a few questions on the way.
What design of your splitter do you love/hate? Other opinions on design and usage? Bad design........Good design........
I have personally found that I prefer the splitting wedge to be mounted at the end of the splitter on the I-beam. This will allow for the split logs to fall into a pile at the end of the splitter, not on my feet. This will also allow a large pile to accumulate without moving the splitter. Even better yet, as the pile grows, the next log split will often push into the pile and move the splitter backwards FOR me. Downside is: can't be used with a splitter that has both vertical and horizontal splitting positions. Splitting wedge on the cylinder: only upside I am aware of is for vertical position of the splitter, possibly one could consider the handy position of the "split" pieces if additional splitting is needed.
Vertical vs. horizontal: this is almost as hot of subject as cat vs. non-cat. Vertical- allows large rounds to be moved "on the ground" into splitting position without lifting. The obvious positive side is not lifting the logs. Obvious down side is moving each split out of the way to set up for the next split. Another thought (and this is important to me) always working at ground level, bending over to man handle the pieces, even if they are only 12" rounds. Some people would rather bend all day then to lift, I personally will lift, so that I can stand upright, this is a personal pref, I am sure. Horizontal - standing upright at a working height. Assuming that the wedge is at the end of the I-beam, wood will "pile" itself.
Loglifts - not needed on vertical/horizontal models, but for horizontal models I would highly suggest it. As you may have picked up from above, I am aging (not even gracefully, darn it), and a log lift is a great gift to the back. Vertical models aren't really an option for me (back won't take it) so horizontal it is. For large rounds, the lift is a god send. Also, most log lifts can second as a workstation platform when not actually lifting. If you don't split big stuff, or actually like lifting 250 pound rounds, feel free to omit it.
Electric start - personal preference, also may depend on the engine used. A 5.5 Honda may pull over pretty easy when cold, but a 12 hp Kohler pulling a large pump with cold hydraulic fluid may not.
Pump - one stage vs. 2 stage: unless you have a power plant with hp to burn, it is almost always best to use a 2 stage pump. This allows a small hp engine to produce high pressure when it needs to grunt and high volume when it doesn't.
Tonnage rating: tough subject - I think you will find that many of the home owner versions of splitters have some version of alien math applied to be rated at the tonnage they claim, some do not. So the following is referring to "real" tonnage applied. Basically I have found that a 24 ton splitter will handle the VAST majority of splitting needs, and a 30 ton will handle everything else (including engine blocks). This can raise heavy debate, we have seen reviews (from Elk and others) of the 4 ton splitters that do a fine job, but I doubt that you would roll a 45" elm round up on them and expect it to be graceful.
I know there are many other "hot" topics in log splitters like "is it street legal", how many gallons of hydro fluid, etc. that can be touched on here as well. Others will have opposing opinions to mine and these are very welcome. Hopefully this thread may raise ideas and thoughts and answer a few questions on the way.
What design of your splitter do you love/hate? Other opinions on design and usage? Bad design........Good design........
