Question about replaced glass panels in my wood burning insert

[Svxcess]

Hello All,

I was hoping to pick the community's brain on proper install for some replacement glass inserts I just had made for my older wood burning insert (1979 Phoenix Manufacturing wood-burning insert). I had Robax inserts made as I understand these resist more heat than ceramic or tempered (which aren't even really used in this application anymore?).

My questions relates to actually putting the inserts back into the doors. The existing inserts were "set" into metal frames that had white fibrous material (fire insulation?) packed into the frames (between the glass and metal). The new glass was cut a little too large so I'm unable to fit it back into the frames.

Is it possible to put the glass inserts directly into the doors without the frames or will I have an issue with dissimilar materials being in contact (IE: the glass touching the metal frame)? Should I go get them re-cut and try to cram them back into the frames with the old fibrous material?

Also, some of the small screws snapped when taking out the old inserts due to the age. I went and bought stainless steel screws but they are longer than the old ones so they could potentially overlap into the glass area (may or may not actually touch). Would this be an issue?

Any thoughts / input would be appreciated!

 

[ShawnLiNY]

The white stuff is gasket material and you need to have gasket , it’s very cheap and available at hardware or online , if there is any chance the screws can contact grind them to right length , or buy proper size . They make self adhesive gasket but I just use painters tape and allow it to burn off . Use never seize on screws or make your own pencil lead dust and some Olive oil

 

[Svxcess]

Great info ShawnLiNY. Quick question on the gasket material, any specific fire rating or type I should buy (brand-wise)? Also, knowing I'll need a gasket now, likely need to get the glass cut down a little to fit back into the small frames, correct?

Will likely have to grind the screws down unless I can find the shorter ones (they are only about 1/8" to 1/4" in length.

 

[ShawnLiNY]

Great info ShawnLiNY. Quick question on the gasket material, any specific fire rating or type I should buy (brand-wise)? Also, knowing I'll need a gasket now, likely need to get the glass cut down a little to fit back into the small frames, correct?

Will likely have to grind the screws down unless I can find the shorter ones (they are only about 1/8" to 1/4" in length.

All the brands are the same material just match the shape and width of what you had in previously , or try to look up the schematic for your stove on woodsman partsplus.com or similar did you have the new robax cut to the size of original? If so no need to grind

 

[ShawnLiNY]

Great info ShawnLiNY. Quick question on the gasket material, any specific fire rating or type I should buy (brand-wise)? Also, knowing I'll need a gasket now, likely need to get the glass cut down a little to fit back into the small frames, correct?

Will likely have to grind the screws down unless I can find the shorter ones (they are only about 1/8" to 1/4" in length.

Lay cardboard down with a towel when working on gasket and glass , be very careful with screws and screwdriver ( my experience is thermal glass ) will crack with the slightest impact from anything hard like dropping a small screw or excessive tension . You’ll be fine just go slow , sometimes it’s better to remove the door ( but this is a last resort in your case as I’m sure screws are seized, if it has pins definitely lay flat ) Good luck bro

 

[Svxcess]

Thanks again! Will get my glass ground down this weekend and then will start looking for the gasket