The mortar joints between the liners are shot. And thats an 8x8 so probably 6.75 or so square. I wouldnt install a stove in it.
raising the stovepipe hole in a masonry chimney
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EbS-P
Minister of Fire
That was my first thought. Breaking it out and drop a liner or new roof penetration. If DIYing the later is looking better. Now I get to choose the perfect location.
How can you tell ? By comparing the size of the chimney cap with the bricks ? You wouldn't install because immediate fire hazard, or just because there's likely to be a lot of creosote buildup because it's so un-smooth ? Were they full of it when they said "In good condition with no apparent issues" ?
Gonna be hard to sell either one to them. I think they're just gonna hook it up and hope for the best.
But I like the "new roof penetration" (aka. all-metal chimney) option. Maybe $2000 of parts (see attached shopping cart snapshot and assume I've missed a few minor items). Seems pretty DIY-able, the crux issues being: flash the roof penetration well (easier since it's shingles not metal), support the support-box firmly, and make sure there's no combustibles within 2" of the pipe.
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I can tell by the pics. Its square and by looking at the top it clearly isn't a 12x12. I would strongly recommend a liner for performance reasons. But refuse to hook a stove to it because there is no mortar between the clay tiles
BKVP
Minister of Fire
I have the opinion, warn them. If it doesn't work, they were informed. Sometimes some improvement can be achieved, but at an expense.
BKVP
BKVP
The stove they have there now works (see the pix in the doc I attached in post #24 above). But as we all know, the BK is a totally different animal from some thing picked up for $80; in particular, they're going to want to be able to take advantage of its ability to do a long slow burn. More need for a good strong draft and more potential creosote buildup.
I really think a new metal chimney is the answer. I'm going to start a new thread.
Yes but your just selling it. As the guy installing it i am liable if something goes wrong. So obvious safety issues I won't do it
Did a MODERATOR move this thread to DIY ? Doesn't seem like the right place; maybe I did it by mistake.
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Yes but as the guy doing the work I have liability issues to consider. If its just a performance issue sure i will hook it up telling them it may not work well. But im not hooking a stove to a chimney with a failed liner
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
I think that was the concern here when I asked about getting my original masonry chimney approved. The guy said he'd have to take it apart before he could say it was OK. Now I see that he was probably not able to approve the liners? That put an end to that idea. Now there is an electric fireplace covering the opening, and a new pellet stove install in the basement. I guess I could still get some sort of insert, but I don't hang around in the living room anyway.
Raising the breech hole in a masonry chimney is not as easy as it seems but is doable.
Ensure that whatever new breech height you choose that you still are 10" from the ceiling to ensure your cleearances are made on the double wall black pipe I suggest you utilize. Single walkl must be 18" from combustibles- so + a lower breech hole.
You will require to have the proper masonry cutting tools to get thru the bricka nd into the flue tile, then you will have to install a full stainless steel lienr to the 7x11 clay tile. so a 5.5 ss liner, tee and breech will do the trick. depending on the height of the chimney..
Or hire a skilled chimney and woodstove installer to do the job, less headaches down the road
Ensure that whatever new breech height you choose that you still are 10" from the ceiling to ensure your cleearances are made on the double wall black pipe I suggest you utilize. Single walkl must be 18" from combustibles- so + a lower breech hole.
You will require to have the proper masonry cutting tools to get thru the bricka nd into the flue tile, then you will have to install a full stainless steel lienr to the 7x11 clay tile. so a 5.5 ss liner, tee and breech will do the trick. depending on the height of the chimney..
Or hire a skilled chimney and woodstove installer to do the job, less headaches down the road
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Its for a princess they are not rated to.run on a 5.5. And the flue is not 7x11. Also the liner should be insulated (probably required by code) there is no room in that liner so the clay needs to be removed.
Why need to insulate the liner if it's inside a masonry chimney ?
So I gather you vote for new Class A system, in the fairly likely event that the existing setup (maybe 6" of rise out the top of the stove before the elbow into the chimney) is unsatisfactory ?
Does the masonry chimney have the required clearances from the outside of the masonry structure to combustible materials? 1" for external 2" for an internal one.? If not its required by code when you install a new liner. Even if it does currently meet code it will work much much better insulated. Especially with a Blaze King that has low exhaust temps. And no I would properly line the masonry chimney unless it needs tons of repairs
BKVP
Minister of Fire
All,
U.L. 1390 is published. Great news because manufacturers will be testing to solid fuel appliances that use masonry chimneys. This applies to hearth heaters and inserts.
Now, some deficiencies were found in the standard 1390 and it will be reviewed and updated. Specifically, it did not address block off plates. It also did not address the placing of an electrical connection behind a shroud. Both a fairly common and a few other issues were discovered by the safety labs.
The use of insulated liners has become vastly more common with the greater increase in wood heater efficiencies. When a mfg tests a wood heater to U.L.1390, they likely will try uninsulated first (cost is a hurdle to doing business) and an insulated liner if it helps with clearance.
However, bholler makes a great point about NFPA 211 requirements of clearances. I am certain he and very other sweep and installer has found 90% of chimney do NOT meet these requirements.
For the added cost of the insulated liner, the peace of mind and additional performance benefits make it worthy of consideration. Safety is #1.
BKVP
U.L. 1390 is published. Great news because manufacturers will be testing to solid fuel appliances that use masonry chimneys. This applies to hearth heaters and inserts.
Now, some deficiencies were found in the standard 1390 and it will be reviewed and updated. Specifically, it did not address block off plates. It also did not address the placing of an electrical connection behind a shroud. Both a fairly common and a few other issues were discovered by the safety labs.
The use of insulated liners has become vastly more common with the greater increase in wood heater efficiencies. When a mfg tests a wood heater to U.L.1390, they likely will try uninsulated first (cost is a hurdle to doing business) and an insulated liner if it helps with clearance.
However, bholler makes a great point about NFPA 211 requirements of clearances. I am certain he and very other sweep and installer has found 90% of chimney do NOT meet these requirements.
For the added cost of the insulated liner, the peace of mind and additional performance benefits make it worthy of consideration. Safety is #1.
BKVP
I can appreciate trying to save some money, but this is infrastructure. Safety is paramount. Also, BK stoves perform best with insulated flue systems due to the lower temp flue gases. The stove will draft better and the flue will stay cleaner, longer, with an insulated liner. Yes, this requires a larger up front investment, but like good home insulation, it pays off year after year.
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