Size UPS?
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Most don't worry about it in my experience. You might get a little less heat off the stove but it will still heat
You can get by with a ups sized about 20-25% larger than the blowers draw for best performance and lifespan. You really only want to load a ups about 80% max.Most blowers draw anywhere from 150-500w. Most likely a 500va ups will be sufficient, or a 1kva.
A simple battery backup system with just a small inverter would work too. But would manually need to be switched over.
I am a ups field engineer so if u have any questions just ask. All i do all day is install, pm, and repair ups and battery systems
A simple battery backup system with just a small inverter would work too. But would manually need to be switched over.
I am a ups field engineer so if u have any questions just ask. All i do all day is install, pm, and repair ups and battery systems
Oh, i also agree that it really isnt needed. If we were talking about a pellet stove then that's entirely different.
No pellet stove, it's a Hampton HI400 hybrid. We don't often have power outages but when we do they can last a while. My upstairs can get pretty chilly w/o the furnace or stove running w/o blower. The air just doesn't move up there that well. I'm not really worried about the stove so much as I am keeping my better half and daughter warm. I was looking at an inexpensive 850va on Amazon last night but I also found a used 350va on Craigslist. I thought that one might be pushing it though. I'll have to pull out the blower and check what it's rated at.
Thanks for the input guys!
A UPS is not going to power the blower for days. Unless it is connected to a large battery bank it will only work for a few hours. If you get extended multi-day outages maybe put air mattresses in the stove room and camp out? Or maybe get a generator so that you can cycle the furnace too.
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Begreen has a valid point. Unless you buy external battery cabinets to go along with the ups your runtime will not be all that great. It all depends on the batteries being used and the size of the ups. you would be lucky to get 6-8 hours without ext batteries. If its justt a single desktop computer style ups you will be hard pressed to get over 3 hours.
As i already eluded to earlier, this isnt really the best option, but will work. If i were you I would buy a good deep cycle battery or two and an inverter big enough to run the blower, and a battery charger. If you lose power it would only take someone a few mjnutes to set it all up. Then you can either use a generator or your car to recharge the battery via putting the inverter in your car and using the charger to charge the battery back up. Or if you have two batteries just swap them out. This simple battery backup system is more versatile and will last longer than a cheap ups and provide a longer run time.
There are many ways to accomplish your goals if you really want to. If you want some assistance on how to build a small battery backup system i would be glad to help. I have a 4 80Ah battery system in my home that can run anything i need to as needed for several days before i have to run the generator or truck to recharge the batteries.
As i already eluded to earlier, this isnt really the best option, but will work. If i were you I would buy a good deep cycle battery or two and an inverter big enough to run the blower, and a battery charger. If you lose power it would only take someone a few mjnutes to set it all up. Then you can either use a generator or your car to recharge the battery via putting the inverter in your car and using the charger to charge the battery back up. Or if you have two batteries just swap them out. This simple battery backup system is more versatile and will last longer than a cheap ups and provide a longer run time.
There are many ways to accomplish your goals if you really want to. If you want some assistance on how to build a small battery backup system i would be glad to help. I have a 4 80Ah battery system in my home that can run anything i need to as needed for several days before i have to run the generator or truck to recharge the batteries.
BurnIt13
Minister of Fire
I relied on my blower constantly my first year as I was always having overfires due to bad wood. It would take forever and ever to burn off the moisture then the firebox would be a blazing inferno and I would use the blower to cool the stove down.
Since then I've been using seasoned wood and haven't needed to turn on my blower at all.
Since then I've been using seasoned wood and haven't needed to turn on my blower at all.
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
I keep a UPS on the blower mostly for during the middle of the night power outages, need something to last a couple hours if I sleep through the outage, I run a 1500VA unit that keeps it powered for a couple hours on low speed which is what I run my blower on at night. Just a CYA kinda deal, also have my Auber thermocouple unit hooked up to that same UPS so the alarm function will still work during a power outage.
If the outage will be a while I will hook up the gas generator.
If the outage will be a while I will hook up the gas generator.
maple1
Minister of Fire
"I have a 4 80Ah battery system in my home that can run anything i need to as needed for several days before i have to run the generator or truck to recharge the batteries."
Care to share more details?
Care to share more details?
Thanks for the input guy's. I'm just looking for something to get through 2-4hrs. anything longer and I'll lug out the generator. I work 24hr shifts so it would be nice if my wife had something that would kick in automatically w/o her worrying about it.
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
My blower's UL rating is 150 Watts, but as usual, the rated figure is conservative. My Kill a Watt says it draws ~75 Watts.
Even the rated draw is well within the continuous power ratings of most desktop computer UPS'es
As others noted, the limiting factor is the batteries, and unfortunately, UPS makers usually don't make the battery specs easy to find, and the batteries aren't as big as you might expect them to be. The general intention of a UPS isn't to get you through a long power outage, except maybe some of the big commercial units it sounds like TheRambler works with. It's to give you time to finish what you're working on at the moment, save your files, and shut down your computer without losing data.
However, between spec sheets and parts manuals that might list replacement battery specs, you can usually find the info you need.
So for example, this UPS, which is one of the larger consumer/small business types:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-B...e=UTF8&qid=1447453746&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+ups
I found a datasheet here:
http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1500G&total_watts=200
It looks like a 75 Watt load will run for not quite 1-1/2 hours. That's not long. They also sell an add-on battery pack that will triple that time, but the combined cost of the UPS and the add-on battery is over $300.
It would be more cost-effective to buy a deep-cycle battery (Available at some auto parts, RV, or boat stores) and a separate inverter. For example, a group 27 deep cycle battery usually holds at least 800 Watt-hours, and I think can be had for about $150. Hypothetically, that could run my blower for 10+ hours - maybe more like 8 hours since inverters waste some energy.
Add $50 for an inverter*, and you've got 3 times the run time for similar or lower cost. Unfortunately, it's a lot less convenient, because not only is it multiple devices that aren't neatly packaged together, but it also won't automatically kick in when the power is out**, and you have to keep the battery topped up manually every few months (or keep it on a battery tender). And a battery that big is heavy (50+ pounds)
* Cheap inverters are known as modified-sine wave inverters - they don't accurately replicate a smooth AC signal. Some devices, including many fan motors, may not run well or even suffer a premature death on these. UPS's usually use this type of inverter, too (modern computer power suppliers are able to deal with it). Unfortunately, so-called pure sine wave inverters are a lot more expensive - a name brand 300W model costs about $150. Generic units might be had for around $100.
Even the rated draw is well within the continuous power ratings of most desktop computer UPS'es
As others noted, the limiting factor is the batteries, and unfortunately, UPS makers usually don't make the battery specs easy to find, and the batteries aren't as big as you might expect them to be. The general intention of a UPS isn't to get you through a long power outage, except maybe some of the big commercial units it sounds like TheRambler works with. It's to give you time to finish what you're working on at the moment, save your files, and shut down your computer without losing data.
However, between spec sheets and parts manuals that might list replacement battery specs, you can usually find the info you need.
So for example, this UPS, which is one of the larger consumer/small business types:
http://www.amazon.com/APC-BR1500G-B...e=UTF8&qid=1447453746&sr=8-3&keywords=apc+ups
I found a datasheet here:
http://www.apc.com/products/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=BR1500G&total_watts=200
It looks like a 75 Watt load will run for not quite 1-1/2 hours. That's not long. They also sell an add-on battery pack that will triple that time, but the combined cost of the UPS and the add-on battery is over $300.
It would be more cost-effective to buy a deep-cycle battery (Available at some auto parts, RV, or boat stores) and a separate inverter. For example, a group 27 deep cycle battery usually holds at least 800 Watt-hours, and I think can be had for about $150. Hypothetically, that could run my blower for 10+ hours - maybe more like 8 hours since inverters waste some energy.
Add $50 for an inverter*, and you've got 3 times the run time for similar or lower cost. Unfortunately, it's a lot less convenient, because not only is it multiple devices that aren't neatly packaged together, but it also won't automatically kick in when the power is out**, and you have to keep the battery topped up manually every few months (or keep it on a battery tender). And a battery that big is heavy (50+ pounds)
* Cheap inverters are known as modified-sine wave inverters - they don't accurately replicate a smooth AC signal. Some devices, including many fan motors, may not run well or even suffer a premature death on these. UPS's usually use this type of inverter, too (modern computer power suppliers are able to deal with it). Unfortunately, so-called pure sine wave inverters are a lot more expensive - a name brand 300W model costs about $150. Generic units might be had for around $100.
There is no need for a pure sine wave inverter or generator. 99.9% of all electrical items convert the power to dc anyway. And for the items that dont, like an ac motor, the vast majority run just fine on a modiied sine wave, and i do mean the vast majority. It makes zero difference, and is all hype, bs, marketing, and general drama. Unless your running a mass soectrometer or some super crazy lab equipment in your house... Don't worry about it. Anything that a homeowner wants to power can be powered with a modified sine wave. Yes, manufacturers have that little blurb about how it may not work or cause damage. That is complete bs legal liability mumbo jumbo.
I test this stuff for a living. Believe me when i say it really doesnt matter.
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Our APC UPS systems will not work on modified sine wave power. They refuse to come on. Our microwave does not run too great either. With the inverter generator they run fine.
Its more about the quality of the inverter abd its ability to provide a steady 60hz +/- .5 and not the shape of the sine wave. All inverters are not created equal.
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