Smaller trailer recommendations

[AK13]

I am looking for a small trailer to tow my lawn mower (a Simplicity Conquest). I'll probably be going with 5x8, 5x10, 6x8 or 6x10. I'm considering the Tractor Supply models just because they seem pretty affordable and are readily available. I've heard that the mesh decks are lousy so I'd probably spring for the wood deck vs. having to reinforce the deck. They don't even appear to sell the mesh decks in the larger sizes anymore.

I don't have any current plans to haul firewood with the trailer, but might if the farm where I bought wood sells cords really cheap again (pick up only). So I wish that the sides were closed, but I could deal with that later. In NH I don't have to have it inspected as long as the GVWR is less that 3000 lbs, so I want to keep to that size.

Here are the ones that I'm looking at:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/en/store/search/trailers-173-1?cm_mmc=SEM-_-Google-_-Towing-_-Trailers

The 5x8 is only $799. The 6x8 is $1000 (I think its on sale right now for $100 off). The 5x10 is listed at $1300 today but I'm pretty sure it was $1000 last week and will probably go on sale again soon.

I'd rather keep the cost to $1k, but am willing to pay more for better quality.

So can anybody vouch for the TSC trailers or recommend an alternative?

 

[mustash29]

A buddy has one of the 5x8 TSC ones with the mesh ramp. It's ok but cheap & flimsy IMO. Thin angle iron, but it has the nice Trex decking. I believe his is the 2000 lb variety. Hooked up to the truck, it will flex if you "bounce" on the balls of your feet on the corner of it.

IMO, if you have the SLIGHTEST idea of hauling wood on it, get one with a 2990 GVW rating. Better tires, axel, springs, frame, etc. Even though it may have a 2990 rating and be registered that way, it will most likely have a 3500 lb axel, springs & tires. Typically, 2000 and 3500 lbs are the catagories of axels found on allmost all smaller stuff.

 

[greg13]

Call a few rental houses in your area and see if they are selling any of their fleet, I bought a 6x10 Felling FT3 (3000#) for $400

 

[Warm_in_NH]

My buddy owns his own auto mechanic shop. He bought the 6x8 and modified it to haul his cow to slaughter.
I saw it when he bought a hot tub from me and we loaded it in.
Imo it seemed decent for the $$, and he liked it which says something since he spins wrenches for a living. This was a couple years ago, assuming they're unchanged?

 

[AK13]

It looks like the 6x8 is only 2400 GVWR and the 5x10 is the 2990 GVWR model. I thought more width would be better than length. But if my mower fits easily enough on a 5' trailer then maybe that's the way to go. Once it goes back on sale for $1k that is. No way am I paying $1300.

Good suggestion on the rental idea. I don't have any places in mind, but there must be rental shops around. That Felling looks like a very nice trailer for $400.

 

[AK13]

I also just noticed that the 5x10 has 15" wheels vs. 13" on the 6x8. If the 5x10 is wide enough that looks to be the better trailer when they are both priced at $999.

 

[gzecc]

Couple of good ones on CL (manchester) for under 1k.

 

[AK13]

This TSC 5x10 trailer is going to be on sale again this weekend for $300 off for $1k. I'll probably go check one out. I need this to mow a rental property so I'm debating between trailering my mower over vs. buying a cheap $1k or so lawn mower. Can't decide which way to go. It seems like a pain to have to trailer the mower every week or two. But on the other hand the trailer seems to have more use than a low end mower.

 

[semipro]

IMO a tilting trailer is the way to go for hauling a riding mower. I have a 4x8 that I use for that etc.
If you really want to haul firewood you'll need to get something with a bigger load capacity. It won't take much wood to overload a small trailer.
You can't really have too much trailer unless you can't tow it safely. A mower will fit fine on a bigger trailer. Overloading a small trailer is dangerous and problematic. I know from experience on that one.

 

[Highbeam]

The longer the trailer, the easier it is to back up.

 

[AK13]

The longer the trailer, the easier it is to back up.

Interesting. I didn't know that. I think the 5x10 is definitely the way to go vs. the 6x8. Its got the larger wheels and a higher load capacity.

Semipro I agree with you that it won't be much of a wood hauler. But the advantage of a small trailer (under 3000 lb GVWR) is that you don't have to have it inspected in NH. Just $10 or so to register it.

 

[Highbeam]

Yeah, those short trailers jacknife really fast when backing up. Big change when coming down from a thirty footer.

 

[semipro]

Placement of the axle along the length of the trailer also affects how hard it is to back up and how it handles on the road. Judging by the many small and sometimes larger trailers I see fishtailing down the road those towing them aren't loading them right. There must be a sufficient amount of weight placed downward on the vehicle hitch by the trailer tongue.

I'm sure that the trailers sold by TS have the axle placed well. Many homebuilt trailers don't.

 

[semipro]

Yeah, those short trailers jacknife really fast when backing up. Big change when coming down from a thirty footer.

Yeah, I gave up trying to back my splitter up with my truck -- just couldn't see it well and its so short that you can't recover from even a small error.
I put a hitch on my riding mower (and tractor) and its way better.

 

[Highbeam]

Proper loading is key to prevent sway. 10% on the ball. I trailer a lot of rolling items and odd bulk load, make sure that the loading is proper. A well built trailer can sway if you load a car backwards vs. Forwards. The engine is heavy.

My current trailer is a pj brand which i love. It weighs 2400# with 250 on the ball when empty. I was amazed at how well it was balanced. I mrked the deck where my tractor needs to set to maintain the 10% tongue weight. I suggest you do the same with your mower.

 

[maple1]

Keep your eyes open for a used snowmobile trailer. I've got a 4x10 single tilter. Have had all kinds of things on that, motorcycles, snowmobile, ATV, mower, miscellaneous stuff of all kinds. Towing & backing up is a piece of cake. One thing it won't be wide enough for is a side by side, if one of those is anywhere in your future.

 

[AK13]

Well I went and bought the trailer this weekend. I hope to bring it home today. I had a mission for it on Sunday but unfortunately they wouldn't let me take it on Saturday. I thought they'd slap 20-day plates on it and send me on my way, but I have to get it registered and get plates for it before they'll let me take it home! Oh well.

I thought it seemed to be a pretty solid trailer for the money. Hopefully it holds up. I think as long as you keep an eye on the paint and touch it up before it rusts that it should last pretty well. It sounds like I'll need to research how to properly load it for a good ride.

 

[mustash29]

Typically, you want to load 60% of the weight forward of the axel and 40% aft of the axel. Tongue weight should always be 10-15% of total load. For a 3K trailer, you would be looking at 300 - 450 tongue weight.

You also want a proper hitch (rise, straight, drop) that will keep the trailer tongue and frame as level as possible in respect to the tow vehicles frame. During breaking (panic stop) you want the trailer weight pushing the tow vehicle in a level straight line. If the tongue height is too high, it will tend to take weight off of the back of the tow vehicle and transfer it to the steering. If the tongue height is too low it will tend to add weight to the rear of the tow vehicle, which will tranfer weight off of the steering. Those things can turn bad scary in a panic stop, the heavier the load the worse it will be. An unlevel tongue also tends to make a trailer sway more at highway speeds.

 

[Highbeam]

Typically, you want to load 60% of the weight forward of the axel and 40% aft of the axel. Tongue weight should always be 10-15% of total load. For a 3K trailer, you would be looking at 300 - 450 tongue weight.

I'm with you on the 10-15% part but the 60/40 split is a bad rule of thumb. Sure it works for even loads but when you have two pallets of bricks that weigh the same you need to move them so that you get the 10% tongue weight and that has more to do with where you put the pallets than it does with how much weight is fore or aft of the axles.