Sorry for the delay. I have failed at growing heirloom tomato this summer and suddenly have some free time.
On the one hand I absolutely defer to @Woodsplitter67
for kilning east coast hardwoods, on the other, there is a ton of variation here within single zip codes.
I am about a mile from the nearest river on alluvial silt (flood plain) with my water table at about 20 feet. 2 miles away, in the same zip, is a co worker of mine up on a ridge that had to drill through 150 feet of gravel to find dirt to drill when he was putting in a well. I have a lot more ground water to deal with than he ever sees. My coworker has fabulous drainage, I don't.
When I built my kilns I put cinderblocks on subsoil after removing the topsoil, then ground contact rated pressure treated floor framing, then a thick layer of plastic moisture barrier, then not PT plywood for the kiln floors. For air inlet at the bottom I have a nominal 3/4 inch gap between the flooring and the membrane all around, and good results, in an area with a lot of ground water. Mine are 40 inches wide, 2 splits with an air gap in the middle.
IIRC woodsplitter's first kiln was a single split width, and open at the bottom. I have no idea how deep his water table is or how good his drainage is.
My biggest kiln holds 2.75 cords. With sealed floors, 3/4 inch airgap x 44 running feet and top vent sized roughly one cantaloupe per cord, standing green spruce in January that I split and stack in March is ready to burn July fourth.
I can't possibly know the conditions on your lot without several site visits. If you are willing to bring in a keg of Guinness and pay my airfare x 4 I will come take 4 looks and sleep in the garage next to the keg. Otherwise build with a sealed floor and let the chipmunks work on it. When your wood gets to be marginal for burning you got too many weep holes in your floor's vapor barrier.