LolYes, it was a pain and I think I drove family members nuts, but I took advantage of cold dry weather over Thanksgiving vacation to do some daytime burns over those days to get a feel of what I see on the flue probe compared to what I see out of the chimney at various stages of the fire. A seemed a good way to learn about my first year burning this new stove. Today, however, is cold and rainy - I was more than willing to just watch the flue probe temps.
(And I did even do some spot lighting of the chimney during the evenings, but yep, that was even more of a pain.)
Stove temps and creosote
- Thread starter Welderman85
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Ok I have burned twice now the first night I turned the air down and all was fine. Last night I put a few more splits on and watched the fire for a while, reset the air and went to bed but this morning the glass it all brown with soot. What did I do wrong
Different stove setting? Reduced?
Different fuel supply? Possibly wetter?
Calm still wind less night with reduced effective draft?
Many potentials. It's a moving target to a extent! Enjoy....
spudman99
Feeling the Heat
You are fine. Soot and ash on the door after a longer burn is normal, if not the expected result. As the firebox temperature decreases there is less draft and the emissions from the coals (which are heavier than air) tend to recirculate in the chamber. Since the glass will be a bit cooler than the rear of the box, they will settle there (simple thermodynamics). Do not worry or bother to clean unless you want to look into the stove at clear glass. They will likely disappear on the next startup when the fire is hot and strong draft is re-established.
You are doing fine and your education is progressing well. Soon you will be advising folks herein....
You are doing fine and your education is progressing well. Soon you will be advising folks herein....
250 is the absolute lowest you would want there. And that may be to low. 250 is about right 18" off the stove
Ok tank you and this is a dumb question but to get it back up just open the air up get togetbit burning more
Once it is in the coaling stage stack temp doesn't matter. You will not make creosote. And yes opening the air on coals will still increase temps
Thank you once again. I'm sure I'll have a bunch more questions but thank.you for all your help
if you burn hard woods let the wood season for 1 year
and keep the fire real blazing hot you should not have to much cresote in the chimney
Not true at all. For most people 1 year is not enough time to get hardwood below 20%. New burners really need to use a moisture meter to know if their wood is ready. With modern stoves you also don't need to keep the stove blazing hot. You just need to know how to run them properly.
Sorry to bug you but what happens when I pass that temp. I had a fire today and some company came over. The stove got a little warm and my liner was reading 550 -600 in my normal measuring spot. Thank you
If the thought is that the flue gas temp is 2x then I would agree, but that somewhat contradicts the prior statement.
This is an IR reading on flex, just above the collar. Is that correct? If so, a lower temp of 200 would be ok.
I did it again today reloaded got it to where I thought I was good went to the garage for 10 mins came inside and it was an inferno the flex was reading 550 again I'm afraid I'm going to burn my house down
Similar threads
