Suggestions for wedgies

[PapaDave]

I've got a couple trees I'd like to get down this year that are leaning a bit in the wrong direction.
I'm thinking a wedge or 2 should help persuade these bastiges to go where I want em' to, instead of where they're already aimed.
Any favorites and prices? Found an Estwing at the local store with a couple "wings" that was about $18. I'll check Bailey's too, but was looking for ideas from the pros (and others).
Thanks.
Plan of attack to be forthcoming (in my own mind, at least).
Now I'm starting to regret my thread title. DOH!

 

[milleo]

Lol I thought the title was funny.

 

[Blue2ndaries]

Not sure whether to reply to this one...

Amazon has a bunch for under $10. Works great if you have Amazon "Prime" -- free 2day shipping.
http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_1?url=search-alias=aps&field-keywords=tree+wedges

 

[gac17]

Those plastic felling wedges in the above amazon post are the way to go, as opposed to a splitting edge. They are cheaper and if you hit them with the saw it's no big deal.

 

[swagler85]

Just don't let this happen

 

[PapaDave]

Sean, you've brought my worst fear to life.
We need a way to edit the thread title.

 

[ScotO]

In the infamous words of Larry The Cable Guy......"I'm sporting a thong right now...........but don't get too excited, they started out as boxer shorts this mornin'........."

Whatever you do, if they are big heavy trees, use steel or aluminum wedges and a sledgehammer.....you'll thank me....
Stihl makes wedges with little 'grabber' ribs on them, and they work great for keeping it in the tree. I also see other companies have mimicked the grabber teets on the plastic ones too (seems like smooth plastic ones like to 'kick' out on ya sometimes.....)
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[JustWood]

Longer wedges lift slower and easier. They will cross easier in the kerf also , to get extra lift if need be.
3 or more is the best scenario for felling trees with serious backlean.

 

[bigbarf48]

Ive got a pair from northern tool, the little one has the little fins on it. 3.99 and 4.99 if I remember correctly

 

[Backwoods Savage]

I've got a couple trees I'd like to get down this year that are leaning a bit in the wrong direction.
I'm thinking a wedge or 2 should help persuade these bastiges to go where I want em' to, instead of where they're already aimed.
Any favorites and prices? Found an Estwing at the local store with a couple "wings" that was about $18. I'll check Bailey's too, but was looking for ideas from the pros (and others).
Thanks.
Plan of attack to be forthcoming (in my own mind, at least).
Now I'm starting to regret my thread title. DOH!

Well Dave, so long as you are aware of the danger of doing this you might be okay. We can't sit here at the computer and say it should be done this way or that way as we can not know how much lean you are talking about. If there is much lean, then don't rely on wedges or you might get into trouble.

Ask yourself what will happen if the tree simply won't go that way. What will be the outcome? Maybe you need some help at the top of the tree rather than at the bottom?

 

[JustWood]

I wood definetly NOT use a sledge and steel wedge. I've seen guys bust a hinge right off and the tree came over backwards with a sledge and steel wedge.
Slow and methodical wins the race when wedging backleaners.
Ya cant pound apechit like the more-ahns on axe men. For every 1/8" you open the kerf the top has to move feet. More or less depending on the height of the tree.The top has to catch up with the kerf opening up before you hit the wedge again . Otherwise your stressing the strength of the hinge.

 

[PapaDave]

One big white pine is leaning ESE, and I need it to go more of a SSE direction....just a couple feet to avoid taking out the corner of a shed.
The other is a spruce that had the top break off and is leaning a little too close to the septic field. I might be better off taking it that direction, but I'd like to take it about 75 degrees west/opposite the lean.
Not a serious lean in my eyes, but I've been wrong before. 1972, I think. No, scratch that...1973.
I know, pics would help. When the yard doesn't have a foot of snow, I'll do that. Wondering if the snow would help cushion the fall?

 

[Jon1270]

It's already been said, but just to make sure it gets through: a splitting wedge is not the same tool as a bucking / felling wedge.

Also, (broken link removed to http://www2.dnr.cornell.edu/ext/bmp/contents/diy/wedges.pdf) of how to use the latter.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

One big white pine is leaning ESE, and I need it to go more of a SSE direction....just a couple feet to avoid taking out the corner of a shed.
The other is a spruce that had the top break off and is leaning a little too close to the septic field. I might be better off taking it that direction, but I'd like to take it about 75 degrees west/opposite the lean.
Not a serious lean in my eyes, but I've been wrong before. 1972, I think. No, scratch that...1973.
I know, pics would help. When the yard doesn't have a foot of snow, I'll do that. Wondering if the snow would help cushion the fall?

Dave, climb the tree to 40 feet then jump. If the snow cushions your fall, it might do the same with the tree. But you must go first.

 

[ScotO]

I wood definetly NOT use a sledge and steel wedge. I've seen guys bust a hinge right off and the tree came over backwards with a sledge and steel wedge.
Slow and methodical wins the race when wedging backleaners.
Ya cant pound apechit like the more-ahns on axe men. For every 1/8" you open the kerf the top has to move feet. More or less depending on the height of the tree.The top has to catch up with the kerf opening up before you hit the wedge again . Otherwise your stressing the strength of the hinge.

Yes, you are correct about not going ape-chit. When I said sledge, I should have specified a small 2lb hand-held job. Not swinging a 20lb monster hit after hit like you are busting a split.....my bad.

And yes, the top of the tree (depending on how high the tree is) can move FEET for every fraction of an inch the wedge moves into the kerf. I'm really skeptical to give much advice on dropping trees anymore on the site. you just don't know who will take the information as gospel (no information on dropping trees should be taken as the gospel). I'll say I use the stacked wedge method (plunge cuts) with great success in some heavy lean trees, but if you don't know what you are doing you can get killed so I will stop there. My best advice is if you don't have the experience to do it, and it scares you to do it, then you better not do it......it's easy to get killed in a heartbeat doing this kind of work....

 

[gac17]

The wedge is certainly a useful tool, but it is not a substitute for proper felling techniques. The way I've been taught throughout my career is that wedges are an insurance policy, and should never be your only way to get the tree to go the way you want.

 

[PapaDave]

That big white pine lost a branch about 1' dia. a couple years ago from about 30' up. Wrong tree.
Dennis, I agree and have been looking at this tree for 4 years. Can a leaner be cut to go slightly off course, or will that cause it to roll back in the lean direction.
If I take out the corner of the shed, I'll just rebuild. The smaller spruce trunk is less of an issue.

 

[gac17]

That big white pine lost a branch about 1' dia. a couple years ago from about 30' up.
Dennis, I agree and have been looking at this tree for 4 years. Can a leaner be cut to go slightly off course, or will that cause it to roll back in the lean direction.
If I take out the corner of the shed, I'll just rebuild. The smaller spruce trunk is less of an issue.

Depending on the lean, a leaning tree can safely be felled in a direction other than the lean, however it is a lengthy topic, and usually requires training. While there are many ways to skin a pig so to speak, aire on the side of caution. If you have some time look into taking a "game of logging" course. They cover directional felling procedures. Its a great resource and I bet about everyone here would get something out of it.

 

[PapaDave]

Dennis, u a funy guy.
I ain't jumpin' outta' no dang tree.
All sound advice, and will be taken as given. I don't jump headfirst into much of anything, so if I don't think I can deal with this, I won't.
"It's already been said, but just to make sure it gets through: a splitting wedge is not the same tool as a bucking / felling wedge." Thanks for that, Jon.
I'll check out the link.
If these were in the woods, I'd not hesitate as much.

 

[ArsenalDon]

Please be careful the the bottom does not kick out on you. If it is serious lean that can easily happen...kick out, then spin off the wrong way and disaster. I would approach it from up top first and take it in stages

 

[MasterMech]

Wondering if the snow would help cushion the fall?​

It'd have to be deep for sure to have any effect. I know on the golf course we wait until the ground freezes to drop trees in "sensitive" areas and that does help minimize damage to the turf. But if you have a big enough branch and enough energy behind it, it's still gonna tear chit up when it lands.

 

[savageactor7]

Thanks to rotor cuff and tendentious issues the number of 'pounds' I can deliver on target are limited so I too use a rope. What I do now to persuade a tree to fall against its nature attach a rope up as high as I can safely ladder and gently pull the tree. Usually about 20'

1 Tie rope
2 take up slack but don't tighten rope
3 make felling hinge cut
4 carefully tighten rope, observe top of tree for favorable lean
5 start back cut, observe lean, take up slack
6 keep repeating 4,5, as many times it takes until you get the lean, then you're good.

Important to note that your not pulling the tree down, do that and the rope will break, you're guiding the tree down as each incremental back cut reduces load. Some trees require 5 or 6 incremental back cuts and rope guiding.

Also the when using a rope for this kind of load use only round turns and half hitches that are separated by at least 10"...that way after the tree falls you can unravel the rope easily.

Back in the bronze age I also did this move with the aid of 2 cable ratchets but it was very time consuming. But it is another option.

Its a fact, a rope pulling on a tree 20' up unleashes powerful forces of nature, I don't know what they are exactly but it's an incredible mechanical advantage for the average tree cutter facing a challenging cut.

 

[KodiakII]

Steel wedges in my books are for splitting only! I prefer aluminum ( have two ) but also have 3 or 4 plastic wedges JIC. Get a line on it, if you can't get a vehicle on it (truck or tractor) use a couple of snatch blocks to get it to your vehicle or use a good stout hand winch like a Turfer.

p.s. for the wedgie problem I would suggest proper fitting undergarments.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

That big white pine lost a branch about 1' dia. a couple years ago from about 30' up. Wrong tree.
Dennis, I agree and have been looking at this tree for 4 years. Can a leaner be cut to go slightly off course, or will that cause it to roll back in the lean direction.
If I take out the corner of the shed, I'll just rebuild. The smaller spruce trunk is less of an issue.

Yes it can Dave but I won't tell you how on the forum.

 

[jeff_t]

I seem to break the super cheap wedgies in cold weather. I really like the K&H Red Heads. They seem to take a beating well, but they are a bit pricey.

I'll be in the 'hood in a couple of weeks, Dave.