switching to wood on a serious budget

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WoodBoringBeetle

New Member
Oct 6, 2026
10
Minnesota
Hi all, I've been using a wood boiler to heat my house and attached garage for many years and its not feasible anymore. I plan to keep it for heating my garage and possibly my hot water and utility room above garage, but would like to install a wood stove to provide most of the heat for the main house. I also have a fairly new oil furnace, which has become too expensive to use for anything but backup. It was purchased for me by a low income assistance program; I didn't have the option for propane, unfortunately.

So I am looking for tips on how to get a low cost wood stove system, which is all I can afford. This will almost certainly mean mostly used parts, but I will not take risks with badly worn or damaged parts. I don't need to hurry, I can take my time collecting what I need and maybe install next year. I can probably do most of the inside work myself, but with an 8:12 roof I will need someone to install (or help install) the chimney. I don't mind starting with an older stove temporarily but certainly would prefer something UL listed and EPA approved for the long term. My first floor is about 41 x 21 so I'll need something good sized, heat drifting up the stairs from living room has always been enough to heat the master bedroom above to a comfortable chilly sleeping temp.

Helpful tips on how to source and inspect used stuff, and what too look for?
 
I'm wondering about the typical winter temps. What state is this in? How well insulated is the house? If possible post a sketch or two showing the basic floorplan and proposed stove location.

Unfortunately, installing a wood stove these days has become very expensive. Prices have skyrocketed in the past 6 yrs.

If possible, running up the chimney straight up through the house is usually less expensive for parts and better performing. Beware of used chimney pipe with an unknown history. This is one area where safety is critical. If buying used chimney, it must be modern Class A pipe rated for wood stove service - UL 103HT (HT2100). It should be in excellent condition. Chimney pipe that has been exposed to rain may have its insulation soaked with water, rendering it unusable. Be fussy.
 
I'm wondering about the typical winter temps. What state is this in? How well insulated is the house? If possible post a sketch or two showing the basic floorplan and proposed stove location.

Unfortunately, installing a wood stove these days has become very expensive. Prices have skyrocketed in the past 6 yrs.

If possible, running up the chimney straight up through the house is usually less expensive for parts and better performing. Beware of used chimney pipe with an unknown history. This is one area where safety is critical. If buying used chimney, it must be modern Class A pipe rated for wood stove service - UL 103HT (HT2100) should be in excellent condition. Chimney pipe that has been exposed to rain may have its insulation soaked with water, rendering it unusable. Be fussy.

Northern MN, but I often work in the south during the worst months of the winter. I don't plan to spend too many full winters here and if I do I expect I will need to burn oil too. I'm really thinking of this as supplemental heat for the living room area to cut down oil costs. Its also a thought experiment that may not turn out to be worth it.

The upper level was winterized a few years ago with I dunno, 12 inches or more of cellulose and the foundation in the crawlspace was taped and insulated with foam planks. But the house is 50 years old and has mostly original 2 track slider windows that have seen better days.

I thought about a straight-up chimney but I am not interested in doing that myself. And it would probably drive the cost way up if I hired someone to do it. Thanks for the tips, that's the stuff I need to know
 
While return on investment will be a long time, your comfort and security of having a backup source of heat will be priceless. Finding the chimney pipe cheap isn’t impossible, there’s lots of good used available, keep an eye on craigslist and Facebook marketplace. Just be sure to educate yourself on pipe brands as some have chimney lines that are interchangeable while others are not even though they may look alike.
 
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Yep I've already been scanning FB and CL for a couple weeks to see whats out there, problem is I don't know what I'm looking at or what is compatible with what else. The stoves are easy to figure out because I can search up reviews on this site and others, and all of them so far are either too old or too expensive but I'm sure something will crop up eventually. The pipe is still a mystery to me, and that's primarily what I need to figure out so I can jump on a good deal if I see one.
 
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I'm not sure why but I've seen some really expensive used wood burning stoves --on the other hand I've seen some really cheap used wood fired cook stoves. It's the same heat. The last cook stove I saw was in really nice shape/lightly used and it was only $400! The next stove we get will be a cook stove. We can cook on our Hearthstone but it only has one surface--cook stoves generally have stove-top, warming oven, bake oven and a possibility for hot water. So don't limit your search to just wood heaters...
 
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Yep I've already been scanning FB and CL for a couple weeks to see whats out there, problem is I don't know what I'm looking at or what is compatible with what else. The stoves are easy to figure out because I can search up reviews on this site and others, and all of them so far are either too old or too expensive but I'm sure something will crop up eventually. The pipe is still a mystery to me, and that's primarily what I need to figure out so I can jump on a good deal if I see one.
If you find something interesting post it here and we can point you in the right direction
 
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So what's wrong with the wood boiler that you already have?
 
If possible post a sketch or two showing the basic floorplan and proposed stove location.
[Hearth.com] switching to wood on a serious budget


Sorry for the poor quality but here they are. Not perfectly to scale lol.

[Hearth.com] switching to wood on a serious budget


The first thing I'll note is that the stove is not going to go in the best places for it to. IMO the best places from the standpoint of function, heating and installation would be either in the middle of the living room across from the front door, or in the long hallway between kitchen and living room. But neither of those are going to happen, period. It needs to be in the living room. My preferred location is "A" with the chimney exiting the wall over the deck and then going up. It could also go up behind the knee wall, but like I said that would probably be too costly. And it would probably need to be boxed in that unfinished space too.

B is not really preferable because most of the heat would go up the stairs, but otherwise it is the same situation as A except there is no tree nearly. The tree can be trimmed if it grows too close.

BTW, I have never needed heat in the downstairs bathroom. I don't use the first floor bedroom much but leaving the door open has always kept it tolerable. During extreme cold spells I have shut it.

I would presumably have to move heat to the kitchen with a fan(s), and I'm not sure how well that would work. There is a ceiling fan in the kitchen and hallway, although the latter doesn't work well. The kitchen has one of the 3 first floor boiler radiators in it, so its never been cold.
 
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ahhh, that's another topic but its just not working for me anymore. If you want to come load it 2 or 3 times a day I might reconsider. ;)

Must be a good story. You'll be loading any of the typical noncat wood stoves at least 2 or 3 times a day as well if you want to keep it burning.
 
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Yeah, but if that boiler is outside (in MN) I would prefer to load a stove inside...
 
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Thanks for the sketches. It looks like a stove will work pretty well there.

Here is the first interesting stove I have seen, and I've looked at a bunch. I don't intend to buy this one but just for the sake of discussion...

https://www.facebook.com/marketplac...e_general&referral_story_type=general_listing
This looks like the original model from the 1990s. Still, it may be ok. If it's serviceable, the price is ok. Be sure to get a good picture or two of the firebox and baffle assembly. Also, ask for a sharp, full picture of the UL label on the back of the stove.
 
That looks like the original model from the 1990s. Be sure to get a good picture or two of the firebox and baffle assembly.
I don't plan to buy that one, its too far away and I don't have $500 at the moment. I was just submitting it for feedback on its suitability for my purposes, having now provided a diagram of my house. I did a little reading on them here and the Super 27, even older ones, seem well respected.
 
Is stove pipe or chimney pipe brand-specific?
No, but the sizing is. Try to stick with stoves that take a 6" flue system. This is the most common size and less expensive than other sizes.
 
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I don't plan to buy that one, its too far away and I don't have $500 at the moment. I was just submitting it for feedback on its suitability for my purposes, having now provided a diagram of my house. I did a little reading on them here and the Super 27, even older ones, seem well respected.
Yes, it's a good stove and choice. The nice thing is that parts are still available for all but the oldest version.
 
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Stoves do dictate a minimum height of the flue system (stove top to chimney cap). Most stoves are at 15 ft but some can go lower.
While your stove pipe set up will likely be the same regardless of what stove you get, the amount of class A outside of the stove room needed may be different.
Given the price of class A, it'd be a shame if you get enough for 15 ft when 12 would be sufficient for the stove you're able to get.
 
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Given the price of class A, it'd be a shame if you get enough for 15 ft when 12 would be sufficient for the stove you're able to get.
Good point. The chimney pipe will likely be the most expensive purchase. Regency, PE, and Drolet stoves work well on shorter flue systems.
 
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Given my roof pitch, wouldn't any legal chimney be plenty long for any stove on the market? Now that I think about it my roof might actually be 9:12, I measured it once but don't remember for sure. So I will need 126 inches or 10.5 feet of chimney above the roofline if my calculation is correct.
 
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Do you have a L&M Supply nearby? They carry Drolet wood stoves, probably the best bang for your buck. I believe they also have class A chimney but it’s expensive. I’ve seen class A pipe on marketplace around the Duluth area for cheap, keep an eye out.

If you’re close to Brainerd this popped up recently with a big price drop, maybe he’ll take even less?