I bought a Hudson River West Point pellet stove and let me tell you BEWARE BEWARE BEWARE this stove has only been here 2 months and it has a new control panel,high temp limit switch , and Auger. I cant burn it on any setting higher than 2 because it trips the limit switch and shuts the blower fan off...but thats not bad enough the auger continues to feed pellets to the fire...damn near burned my house down..The company wants me to put an adapter on the convection fan because they say that static electricity is causing the fan to shut off. I told them enough was enough to bring me something else,now they ignore my calls and emails..guess they wont ignore my lawyer and attorney generals office though
Terrible stove
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If you ever get that situation resolved (if it were me, I'd want them to take the stove back & refund all my $$), my suggestion is to go to the local Home Dep. & buy an Englander pellet stove. Lots of people on here have them, and one of the owners is a regular on the forum too. He is a great guy, and helps anyone that has issues w/ his stoves.
Just my 2 cents.
Just my 2 cents.
Pellet stove disaster said:
I notice this is your first post here. Welcome to the forum. Do you perhaps have some anger management issues? Sure got a lot of information from your post, like, how have you tried to resolve your problems w/ the unit? My first reaction is, if you approached your dealer this way, I don't blame them for ignoring your calls. BUT, that's just my opinion
Hey Hoss, no offense, but I think your statement that he has "anger management issues", coming from someone who has "screw OPEC and clueless dealers too" in his signature, a "rifle by the door", and a "shotgun in the bedroom" shouldn't be making any snap judgements about anyone....and it sounds like your sticking up for the dealer...imagine that.
From what I see in his post, he has had more than enough problems with the stove already to warrant at least a different stove, or probably his $ back.
I can just imagine what we'd be hearing from you on this forum if these things were happening to you and your stove.
From what I see in his post, he has had more than enough problems with the stove already to warrant at least a different stove, or probably his $ back.
I can just imagine what we'd be hearing from you on this forum if these things were happening to you and your stove.
If you paid with a credit card you can put the charges in dispute and will probably get your $$$ back... but you need to do it NOW...
macman said:
macman, all due respect, just seemed like walkin' in with an attitude, to me. Kinda like," made a bad decision w/ no research, now I'm gonna sue somebody. ".
Guess we do things different around here. As far as sticking up for the dealer, I don't know his dealer, and couldn't care less. And just re-edited, because I see no need to go there. I'm not trying to offend anyone here, but I just grew up shooting my own snakes.
hossthehermit said:
Interesting that you could deduce that from reading his post...seems to me that I'd be pretty pissed after all the problems he's had, but that might just be me.....I'm sure YOU would never get upset at a "clueless dealer" if those things happened to YOUR stove after it was just 2 months old.
And BTW, HOW do you know he did NO research?
Pellet stove disaster said:
ok guys cut the arguements and lets see what the actual problem is
ok wait a sec, the high limit shuts off the fan???? shouldnt it shut off the feed auger instead? is this thing wired right? as for the static thing , thats just static. if the control board has a grounded plug (3 prong) and the house circuit is grounded there should be no static i think there is a wiring issue possibly from the get go , i do not understand why a high limit would shut off either blower , and especially not stop feeding , if the stove is too hot you stop the flow of fuel , you dont take away the exhaust fan for ceratin and the last thing you should do is stop the convection blower in an overheat , it should max that blower to help cool the stove.
do you have a link to the manufacturer? hopefully they will have a manual which will have a wiring chart and other info , maybe i can pinpoint whats happening with this thing
Pellet stove disaster said:
I feel your pain. I'm over in the Boiler Room-- I've been fighting my fight since Feb. of this year. Sorry to hear of your problems. Is the company local? If so visit them, be persistent, and don't (sorry to use this word) burn your bridges.
If the company is not local be prepared for the most frustrating times ahead. Document calls/messages,gather sales receipts/brochures/ads, anything related to your stove. Be prepared/armed with more ammo than the seller. The Attorney General MUST be spoon fed any information you have--if they do not have it in front of them , it doesn't exist. I gave my seller the benefit of the doubt that he was an honest person who would deal with a paying customer. It sucks, but with my experience, assume the worst. I can't tell you enough, PREPARE NOW,NOW,NOW
!! Don't assume the seller is going to readily solve your issue/s. I'm still awaiting another response from the AG about my problem. (See Adobe Boiler in the Boiler Room)Good luck
!
i gotta tell ya , that manual is terrible, but thanks to macman for posting it, i did find what i was looking for quote from page 10 of the manual.
Your unit is equipped with a "high
temperature limit" thermo snap disc. This
snap disc serves to shutdown the auger in the
case of an over temperature situation (such as
convection fan failure). This disc has a
manual reset button that will have to be
reactivated once the unit has cooled down.
notice its supposed to shut down the auger , not the blower. this leads me back to believing that the stove is wired incorrectly if its tripping the high limit and killing the blower when it does and not stopping the feed. also, if the combustion blower is what is shutting down check out the next paragraph...
If the combustion fan malfunctions a vacuum
switch will automatically shut down the
auger (see also Open Door section above).
so if the combustion blower shuts down then the feed auger should be interrupted by the vacuum switch. so one or the other should be shutting down the feed auger and apparantly neither is doing so.
besides , if the high limit trips , here is the manual's explanation of how to troubleshoot the issue...
Condition 7: The 250° F high limit switch has tripped.
• Reset the switch and determine the cause.
thats it, there isnt anything in the manual which explains what could cause the overtemp.
the wiring chart was there as advertised , but its about useless as it doesnt show the interaction of the wiring , this means that if the high limit closes (note the book says they are normally open switches) the closed signal has to be recognised by the circuit board its apparantly not a direct circuit which is wired through the auger motor circuit. ditto with the vac switch. this means circuit board , or the wiring harness is not set up to the plug correctly. tell me this , when the board was replaced, was the wiring set where it connects to the "molex connector" not changed? its likley the wiring isnt set right to this connector, i'd suggest checking the color coded chart and see if the wires are indeed set into the molex the way the manual lays them out in the chart
Your unit is equipped with a "high
temperature limit" thermo snap disc. This
snap disc serves to shutdown the auger in the
case of an over temperature situation (such as
convection fan failure). This disc has a
manual reset button that will have to be
reactivated once the unit has cooled down.
notice its supposed to shut down the auger , not the blower. this leads me back to believing that the stove is wired incorrectly if its tripping the high limit and killing the blower when it does and not stopping the feed. also, if the combustion blower is what is shutting down check out the next paragraph...
If the combustion fan malfunctions a vacuum
switch will automatically shut down the
auger (see also Open Door section above).
so if the combustion blower shuts down then the feed auger should be interrupted by the vacuum switch. so one or the other should be shutting down the feed auger and apparantly neither is doing so.
besides , if the high limit trips , here is the manual's explanation of how to troubleshoot the issue...
Condition 7: The 250° F high limit switch has tripped.
• Reset the switch and determine the cause.
thats it, there isnt anything in the manual which explains what could cause the overtemp.
the wiring chart was there as advertised , but its about useless as it doesnt show the interaction of the wiring , this means that if the high limit closes (note the book says they are normally open switches) the closed signal has to be recognised by the circuit board its apparantly not a direct circuit which is wired through the auger motor circuit. ditto with the vac switch. this means circuit board , or the wiring harness is not set up to the plug correctly. tell me this , when the board was replaced, was the wiring set where it connects to the "molex connector" not changed? its likley the wiring isnt set right to this connector, i'd suggest checking the color coded chart and see if the wires are indeed set into the molex the way the manual lays them out in the chart
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