It's interesting how even "small" geographical changes affect firewood. I'm only a few hours south of you but looking at countless huge old red maples out my front window.Note there are different types of maple, sugar maple (AKA Rock Maple) from older trees is the best, red maple is probably next but they can be somewhat of a weed tree so finding wood from older trees is tough, silver and norway maple are neck and neck for last, they both tend to be fast growing and less dense, still good firewood but worth learning the difference..
I totally agree, especially the part about wood from older maple trees.Note there are different types of maple, sugar maple (AKA Rock Maple) from older trees is the best, red maple is probably next but they can be somewhat of a weed tree so finding wood from older trees is tough, silver and norway maple are neck and neck for last, they both tend to be fast growing and less dense, still good firewood but worth learning the difference..
This tracks with the land around me. The West side of my property is a swampy brook loaded with red maples and standing dead ash. The maples are often clump formations. The single ones are quite tall and thick. Across the street is a big spring fed pond about the size of 2 hockey rinks surrounded with pine, oak, and red maple. The woods behind that are almost exclusively tall, old, thick, single trunk red maple. That's where I sugar, I have 25 trees marked.Some trivia on sugar maple is it rarely will regenerate on land that has been farmed due to the presence of earthworms. Worms were extinct after the glacial period that covered most of New England. Any worms here now were spread by farming. Worms eat the organic leaf litter and convert it into casings that turn into soil. Therefore the "duff", the layer of dead leaves and other organic matter is thinner in areas with worms than in areas that have never been farmed. It is very obvious when I am tramping through areas in the woods that were never farmed that the duff is far deeper than in areas that were farmed. Sugar Maple seeds need deep duff to take root and start growing so they typically only regenerate in areas that have never been farmed. If they are planted like along a road or a property line they still will grow quite well but they rarely will spread. The other maples seem to be far more tolerant to thin duff with the Norway Maple probably the most prolific to spread to the point where it is regarded as an invasive, they seem to take seed in any hard soil. Sugar Maples also like dry soil while Red Maples seem to tolerate wetter soil although they seem to grow in clumps the wetter it gets.
The other maples are more tolerant of soil PH, sugar maples like "sweeter" soil than the others and acid rain really did a number on sugar maple regeneration. In many cases after the ice storm of 1998 red maples moved into areas that had previously been sugar maples.
There are treatments for ornamental Elm trees, its a fungicide injected into the trunk every couple of years byt need to be started while its still healthy. Not something that would work in a forest but if you have one you want to save its possible. Same with EAB, individual trees may be saved by injecting the right insecticide into the trunk.This tracks with the land around me. The West side of my property is a swampy brook loaded with red maples and standing dead ash. The maples are often clump formations. The single ones are quite tall and thick. Across the street is a big spring fed pond about the size of 2 hockey rinks surrounded with pine, oak, and red maple. The woods behind that are almost exclusively tall, old, thick, single trunk red maple. That's where I sugar, I have 25 trees marked.
All this land was originally an old farm then an apple orchard for 100 years until the 1980s when my street was made and houses built. You won't find a single sugar maple anywhere except in one guy's yard. He has 3 big ones he planted in 1980 but they are struggling health wise. He spends a lot of time trying to save them. The dominant yard trees are red oak, red maple, black birch, hickory, black cherry, and pines. It used to be ash trees too but they are long standing dead. I have some juveniles out back maybe 8-10" diameter but they'll eventually succumb to EAB. I also have a beautiful mature elm in my front yard but that's fairly rare too. Most are gone from Dutch Elm Disease. I'll be really sad when that tree goes, has a tire swing for the kids and just a really classic American yard look to it.
That's an interesting product. I'm not sure my elm is still healthy though. The leaves are definitely starting to wilt earlier in the season. Bark seems fine for now but there's definitely something going on with it. I'll share this with my wife and see what she thinks. Maybe have the arborist come take a look.There are treatments for ornamental Elm trees, its a fungicide injected into the trunk every couple of years byt need to be started while its still healthy. Not something that would work in a forest but if you have one you want to save its possible. Same with EAB, individual trees may be saved by injecting the right insecticide into the trunk.
A quick websearch reveals this product https://chemjettreeinjector.com/dutch-elm-disease-treatment/
I have heard that Sugar Maples do not do well as yard trees as the soil is typically compacted.
Id certainly consider just moving the stove 2 feet to make it a straight run. Or at least go with two 45s. Why two different pipes?
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