Has anyone had any experience lifting the B/S engine off the pump on the TSC 22 ton splitter? What is involved in "uncoupling" them, other than unbolting the engine? I was thinking about trying this in order to change the oil.
TSC 22 splitter. Uncouple engine from pump
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I don't have a "vampire" not sure if it would fit down the dipstick tube. Are these available in like Walmarts?
I had the same thought as the oil drain plug is in such an awkward place that the oil goes everywhere except straight down. You can get a syringe like pump that you shove down the fill tube to suck the oil out. I had one at one time but it grew legs and walked away.
The next time I change the oil, I will put in a Drainzit.
http://www.drainzit.com/
BTW, this is what the drain looks like on my splitter.
![[Hearth.com] TSC 22 splitter. Uncouple engine from pump](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/100_0329-webp.209534/ "[Hearth.com] TSC 22 splitter. Uncouple engine from pump")
The next time I change the oil, I will put in a Drainzit.
http://www.drainzit.com/
BTW, this is what the drain looks like on my splitter.
I just looked at the Drainzit, seems like a good product, just don't really want to spend $23 or so to change the oil.
I'd still like to know what is involved in lifting the engine off the pump.
I'd still like to know what is involved in lifting the engine off the pump.
I haven't done it yet but I'm pretty sure the lovejoy coupling will just come apart. They are meant to isolate all except rotational forces. It's just four small bolts to free the engine to lift off and you can answer your own question.
The Drainzit is just a concept. You could simply use a length of pipe and a threaded coupler for a few dollars. I would look for brass fittings with wrench flats so that it won't unthread at the motor.
The Drainzit is just a concept. You could simply use a length of pipe and a threaded coupler for a few dollars. I would look for brass fittings with wrench flats so that it won't unthread at the motor.
Yup what LLigetfa said around here we call a ...'syringe like pump that you shove down the fill tube to suck the oil out.' a vampire kit. Sorry about the confusion.
On a homeowner splitter you're mostly gonna change the oil twice. early in the spring cause the oil sump accumulates water over the winter, and some time when you think you're half way done splitting for the year.
On a homeowner splitter you're mostly gonna change the oil twice. early in the spring cause the oil sump accumulates water over the winter, and some time when you think you're half way done splitting for the year.
I just wrap the pump and shaft with a garbage bag and duct tape prior to removing the drain plug. I also have a second garbage bag underneath the drain pan.
I do have a electric pump system to pump the oil out of the dipstick on my IB/OB boat.
I do have a electric pump system to pump the oil out of the dipstick on my IB/OB boat.
I realized what the vampire was, just don't think it would go down the dip stick tube. Might just unbolt the engine and see how it comes off the pump. That would also probably be a good time to install something like the Drainzit.
Thanks
Thanks
Yep, LL is using his bean. On any small engine equipment that has bastardized oil drain routes, I give 'em the same treatment as LL did.
And yes, once the engine is loose, you can just lift it from the love-joy.
Side note: if you do lift off the engine, it is VERY important that you get the two metal sections of the love-joy back into alignment, or you will wear the coupling out prematurely. If it proves difficult, a 4" wide by 8" long piece of tin can be wrapped around the connectors and held in place with two large hose clamps. This will secure them in-line while you tighten the engine bolts back down.
And yes, once the engine is loose, you can just lift it from the love-joy.
Side note: if you do lift off the engine, it is VERY important that you get the two metal sections of the love-joy back into alignment, or you will wear the coupling out prematurely. If it proves difficult, a 4" wide by 8" long piece of tin can be wrapped around the connectors and held in place with two large hose clamps. This will secure them in-line while you tighten the engine bolts back down.
There is a drain plug under the engine near the pump. When I purchased the splitter I asked them how do you change the oil without a bottom drain. The guy showed me the drain under the engine and it takes a 1/4" drive to turn, so a socket wrench with an extension will do the job. Take a look and see if you see it.
a large plastic syringe form the dairy section at local farm store could work. They are used for mastitus treatment. Add a length of tygon tubing that fits into your dipstick tube. It would be slow, but maybe faster than lifting the engine.
We use similar setups for backbleeding hydraulic clutches and brakes on trials motorcycles. the syringes cost a buck or so. oil may cause the rubber plunger to swell within a couple months. I know brake fluid does.
I'd add pipe nipples, or fitting and length of pushlock hose, to get the drain to the outside world.
Oil that is hard to change doesn't get changed.......
kcj
We use similar setups for backbleeding hydraulic clutches and brakes on trials motorcycles. the syringes cost a buck or so. oil may cause the rubber plunger to swell within a couple months. I know brake fluid does.
I'd add pipe nipples, or fitting and length of pushlock hose, to get the drain to the outside world.
Oil that is hard to change doesn't get changed.......
kcj
blel - what Jags said;
"Side note: if you do lift off the engine, it is VERY important that you get the two metal sections of the love-joy back into alignment, or you will wear the coupling out prematurely. If it proves difficult, a 4” wide by 8” long piece of tin can be wrapped around the connectors and held in place with two large hose clamps. This will secure them in-line while you tighten the engine bolts back down."
Shaft alignment is very important. You would in fact be able to separate the engine and pump without doing anything to the coupling. The rubber star in between the coupling halves is what transfers the drive torque from the motor coupling half to the pump coupling half. As Jags stated, without lining up the coupling (shafts) when assembling, you will notice increased vibration, and prematurely take out the star. In industrial settings on the larger pumps and drives that I work with (30 to 70mm shafts), I keep at it until the shafts are less than 0.002 out from each other in all planes. One way of doing this is with dial indicators strapped to the shafts. The couplings are slid back on the shafts, shafts lined up, and then the couplings slid back together. The closer to perfect it is, the longer seals, bearings, and everything else lasts. The love joy bodies are held on the OD when bored so they should line up just fine with the piece of tin and hose clamps for what we're doing here.
Steve
"Side note: if you do lift off the engine, it is VERY important that you get the two metal sections of the love-joy back into alignment, or you will wear the coupling out prematurely. If it proves difficult, a 4” wide by 8” long piece of tin can be wrapped around the connectors and held in place with two large hose clamps. This will secure them in-line while you tighten the engine bolts back down."
Shaft alignment is very important. You would in fact be able to separate the engine and pump without doing anything to the coupling. The rubber star in between the coupling halves is what transfers the drive torque from the motor coupling half to the pump coupling half. As Jags stated, without lining up the coupling (shafts) when assembling, you will notice increased vibration, and prematurely take out the star. In industrial settings on the larger pumps and drives that I work with (30 to 70mm shafts), I keep at it until the shafts are less than 0.002 out from each other in all planes. One way of doing this is with dial indicators strapped to the shafts. The couplings are slid back on the shafts, shafts lined up, and then the couplings slid back together. The closer to perfect it is, the longer seals, bearings, and everything else lasts. The love joy bodies are held on the OD when bored so they should line up just fine with the piece of tin and hose clamps for what we're doing here.
Steve
Thanks everybody for your advice. I just went ahead and changed the oil the messy way although the garbage bag idea (from flewism) helped cut down the mess. In the future I'll get a couple of pipe nipples and 90s and make my own Drainzit.
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