I want to buy a new engine for my old homemade splitter. I currently have a old Kohler (10hp) engine that burns more oil than gas. What size engine do most run on there splitters? Today i found a brand new Honda GX270 (9HP) for $549.00 . Is that big enough?
What size engine for my splitter?
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383 Stroker nicely balanced should about do it. :bug: Seriously though, that honda is a great engine, & should be plenty of HP. Fifelaker is dead on with his numbers. A C
10hp Kohler? K series? Even a magnum I'd consider re-ringing it, hone the cyl and call it good for a couple decades. Old Kohlers were quiet and built better than most car engines.
amateur cutter said:
if you are going big might as well be a 528 hemi, fuel injection.................
agree with above re-ring it and go
although could need valves too...
still better/cheaper than a new one
IM done with the old tank. Been re ringed, rebuilt. Is a 16 gpm 2 stage the best pump for a woodsplitter. I want to make the splitter big enough for a four way wedge with fast recycle times. What is the optimum power/HP to GPM pump to accomplish this? Thanks
jimdeq said:
Need to know your cylinder diameter, stroke, and rod diameter to calculate approximate cycle time and force. Design pressure of the system plays a role but most splitters keep it south of 3000 psi. Bigger engines will push more gpm at higher pressures (on a given pump) and not have to kick down into the pump's "granny gear" so quick. IDK if there are pumps that allow adjustment of the kick-down pressure. Having a 22GPM pump and a 20HP v-twin will do little good if the pump unloads into the high-pressure stage (slowing to a crawl) as soon as the wedge touches the log.
Simply upping engine HP and pump GPM should have the effect you desire and you could always find a commercial splitter with the capability you want and copy the specs. Just make sure the cylinder sizes are similar. Smaller diameter cylinder = faster cycle but less force, larger cylinder diameter = more force but slower travel/cycle. The diameter of the cylinder rod will affect the travel speed on just the return stroke.
I'd get that Honda. Looks like it has the power, and I'm very partial to Honda power equipment. When it doesn't start, it's my own fault
jimdeq said:
Check out HF they have Honda clones for $259 you can get an 11 or 13 HP self starter and all.These are as good as Honda parts can be exchanged from one to the other and best part you can get two for the price of one.
No offense meant , but $259 for a 11,0r ,13 hp motor ,and Your saying that they are as good as a Honda GX ? Bull !Whitepine2 said:
Nixon said:
No BULL these people were making Hondas until law suite. Guys around here are using them in race car's boring them out and putting Chevy pistons in them over speeding and they have been doing this for years beating the snot out of them so no BULL. They are the ones that told me the parts are exchangeable Don't knock them unless you tried them,like I said you can have two for the price on one
Whitepine2 said:
So, I'm guessing that you've been running one for a while . How long,and in what ?
I've got several gx's that are well over 10 years old ,that get used hard (2 Winco construction gens ,and 2 Emglo compressors) . I doubt a Chonda will stand up to the abuse heaped on these engines. But , if you're pleased with your choice, so am I .
And while they were building them for Honda they were bound by Honda's quality specs. You think they still follow them to the letter now that they can build and sell 'em any way they choose? You get what you pay for in most cases. I agree that they will do the job and perhaps last awhile in a homeowners hands. But they never seem to hang in there as long as the genuine GX units.
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