Wood Insert: Century Heating CW2500 VS. Century CW2900 VS. Colonial by Vogelzang

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Awesome! I think I may go big. I can get the Osburn 2400 for $1750. You touched on my fear though of being too hot. If I load simply 1 or 2 logs is this thing going to burn them up super quick, or run so hot I can't stand it. I like the idea of being prepared for the cold days, and just loading less on the warmer ones. I just want to be sure I'm not backing myself into a blazing corner by buying the 2400. As long as I can dial it down as needed without causing harm to the unit itself then I may just buy it.

Also @PWash you have been super helpful. Thank you. You agree that simply putting in less wood or turning off the blower can help mitigate the heat in the room (if it gets too hot) without recorse.

It is far easier to load a few splits and get a rhythm going which depends on need, and even cracking a window, then to be maxed out and have no more oompf. Like most of us, after the initial wow wears down, it becomes a second TV, and you may find yourself getting used to loading full a couple times a day, and going about your day/night. But, on a real cold day or evening, it is nice to crack a brew, sit on the couch, and get lost in the fire show. Mesmerizing and therapeutic at the same time.
 
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Just to provide an update. I was wrong on the price of the Osburn 2400... it would run me minimum $2500 out the door. I think I'm going to land on the "Century CW2900". I just cant drop an additional $1500 bucks on the big one at this time.... I so wish I could. Thanks for all your advice and I learned a lot. Maybe I'll upgrade in the future but I realize now I was doing a little dreaming considering the Osbrun 2400.

I have a small fireplace in the front of my house... who knows I may just buy a small insert of there and run 2 at a time.
 
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image.jpeg So let me ask you the question, what stopping you from painting the inside of your fireplace flat black with stove paint, building a block off plate and sticking a englander nc30 free standing stove on a pedestal on there?
I helped my friend do that a couple years ago and it came out sweet.
 
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what stopping you from painting the inside of your fireplace flat black with stove paint, building a block off plate and sticking a englander nc30 free standing stove

That would be sweet if it fit. The 30NC is 30" high, fireplace opening is 28" high. It would take raising the lintel to fit.
 
That would be sweet if it fit. The 30NC is 30" high, fireplace opening is 28" high. It would take raising the lintel to fit.

On pedestal mount from ground to collar it's 291/16" from the ground to top plate is 27 9/16" he could get that in there by angling the stove the first 8 - 10" then the rest is easy
 
View attachment 182788 So let me ask you the question, what stopping you from painting the inside of your fireplace flat black with stove paint, building a block off plate and sticking a englander nc30 free standing stove on a pedestal on there?
I helped my friend do that a couple years ago and it came out sweet.

That would be cool, I'm on a raised hearth so not sure I have the space to put a stove. Even so I think it's a little more dangerous with babies and toddlers. I have to admit there is an aesthetic to the inserts that are kinda nice too. Although I'll show the idea to my wife. I like the. "Out of the box" thinking. I admit the picture you posted is really nice!
 
On pedestal mount from ground to collar it's 291/16" from the ground to top plate is 27 9/16" he could get that in there by angling the stove the first 8 - 10" then the rest is easy
Have you ever tried that? I have and you dont want to. You then also need to hook up the liner once it is in there. Not easy if at all possible.

Even so I think it's a little more dangerous with babies and toddlers.
Honestly I would not worry about that I grew up around a wood stove and never burnt myself as a toddler on it. My kids have been around one their entire lives and have yet to burn themselves. Kids get the idea of its hot don't touch pretty quick once they get close and fell the heat coming off of a stove.
 
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Having worked on many different brands of stoves I can tell you that most of the time there is a pretty big difference between the low end stuff and the higher priced stuff. Build quality and materials are generally better on the higher end stuff. And they are usually easier to work on as well. And yes there is allot that that can and does wear out. Now is that extra quality worth the extra cost? I cant tell you that you have to look at the stoves and make your own decisions.

This may be true and time will tell on this unit. I have only had my CW2900i for one season but the warranty is for five years. For me, it was the only way I was going to get into the wood stove game and I really wanted to play. I feel confident that it will hold up. Based on what...I don't really know. However, the tubes feel solid and along with the baffle are easy to remove for sweeping, the door is simple and seals well, the glass cleans well with just a damp paper towel and stays clean for about three weeks. I'm pretty anal about burning clean, not over firing and using dry wood so I'm sure this will make a difference in the performance and longevity of the stove.
 
This may be true and time will tell on this unit. I have only had my CW2900i for one season but the warranty is for five years. For me, it was the only way I was going to get into the wood stove game and I really wanted to play. I feel confident that it will hold up. Based on what...I don't really know. However, the tubes feel solid and along with the baffle are easy to remove for sweeping, the door is simple and seals well, the glass cleans well with just a damp paper towel and stays clean for about three weeks. I'm pretty anal about burning clean, not over firing and using dry wood so I'm sure this will make a difference in the performance and longevity of the stove.


I am not saying they are bad stoves at all but the cheaper ones have cut costs in places to keep the price down. There is nothing wrong with that in most cases most stoves out there are perfectly safe and will work fine with good fuel. But the higher end stuff given the same conditions will hold up longer in most cases. We typically sell regency stoves but will sell various sbi units or recommend englanders for people who cant or don't want to spend the money on a regency. And by the way regency has lifetime warantee on most parts and the body. You need to pick what works for your situation and budget.
 
I bought my Vogelzang Colonial last September and installed in October. I proceeded to burn the ever-loving snot out of it until April, actually may 2, as we had an unusually cold day. The only time I shut her down was to clean out the ash. There was a definite learning curve, as this was my first EPA stove. The Vogelzang fit my budget well at $600 from Northern Tool and $500 for a stainless flex liner with insulation. I did the install myself and haven't looked back. The stove heats my 1620sq ft house very well, even with 25ft vaulted ceilings. Just be cognizant of the fact that you are working with a small fire box and to get maximum heat out of it will require frequent feedings. The only thing to watch with this stove other than the requisite dry wood, is to be gentle with the insulator board that lines the top of the stove. The boards only are held in by the burn tubes. Be careful that the boards don't get knocked loose by large splits when loading to the gills.
The issue that other buyers have had with sub-par blowers has been rectified. My only gripe about the blower is that it is rheostat controlled, not temperature controlled.
All in all, this is a great little insert and truly can't be beat for the price point. Don't hesitate to pull the trigger on this one. I went from relying on a (highly efficient) Trane heat pump for all of my heat, with the $300+ electric bills in winter, to standing under $80 /month during the winter for electricity. I made up the cost of the insert and flue liner in my first winter alone. This year will be pure profit.
 
I am not saying they are bad stoves at all but the cheaper ones have cut costs in places to keep the price down. There is nothing wrong with that in most cases most stoves out there are perfectly safe and will work fine with good fuel. But the higher end stuff given the same conditions will hold up longer in most cases. We typically sell regency stoves but will sell various sbi units or recommend englanders for people who cant or don't want to spend the money on a regency. And by the way regency has lifetime warantee on most parts and the body. You need to pick what works for your situation and budget.

Yeah man I really understand your point. And I want to buy a Drolet, but the Century may just have to work for now. In 5 years if everything breaks down I'll take the $1500 I saved and invest in a nicer one. Regecy looks super nice, but that is a whole nother tax bracket lol.

@ThunderMedic Thanks for your advice. You are the first person to review the Vogelzang Colonial. Glad to hear it works well. I may end up with the Century CW2900 simply because it has a larger fire box.

You guys are awesome. Does anyone use a fresh air intake? Is it necessary?
 
I have not needed an extra OAK. Although my existing fireplace had an outside vent built in that I leave open. It's about a two inch opening. I've been getting the itch to burn lately. Can't wait for the cooler weather.
 
Hi BG and everyone- my this thread grew!! What I was referring to was a couple of century stoves (the s244 and fw2700) we stock and sell. They are good price point (599 and 799) stoves and their sec burn chamber is tacked in place, once they burn through, they are done. If sold and used properly however, they are great little heaters. I have come to learn that you can't always judge these stoves by price or MFR- SBI makes a bunch of good value stoves, along with Englanders.. I've sent people in their direction plenty of times, we all don't always have 3 bags of money to spend...Anyway think the OP will do well and be happy with the Century Insert. The bottom line is good dry wood always makes the difference.
 
I am not saying they are bad stoves at all but the cheaper ones have cut costs in places to keep the price down. There is nothing wrong with that in most cases most stoves out there are perfectly safe and will work fine with good fuel. But the higher end stuff given the same conditions will hold up longer in most cases. We typically sell regency stoves but will sell various sbi units or recommend englanders for people who cant or don't want to spend the money on a regency. And by the way regency has lifetime warantee on most parts and the body. You need to pick what works for your situation and budget.
Hey bholler...I've read many of your posts and they're always very informative! Didn't realize you sold Regency products, what do you think of the HI300. I just had one installed last summer
 
what do you think of the HI300.
They are good units basically the same as the I2400. Nothing fancy about how they work but they are very reliable and preform well. And all of the hampton stoves are beautiful.
 
They are good units basically the same as the I2400. Nothing fancy about how they work but they are very reliable and preform well. And all of the hampton stoves are beautiful.
Yes...we love the HI300, it's easy to operate and is quit the beautiful unit. Only complaint I had in my first burning season was I had a hard time keeping the house warm enough when the temps got really cold (20's and below). But since I have a 28ft exterior chimney with no block off plate I think that was part of the problem...that and my being a complete newbie to burning. I just recently had my Regency dealer install a block off plate (after telling me several times it was not needed)! I'm really looking forward to this burning season to see the difference with the block off plate, fully seasoned wood and more experience! Thanks for all of the guidance you provide on this site...it's always top notch advice!
 
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