Wood Insert Recommendations

[Ovationcs257]

I think I’m looking for an insert (I think but can be easily swayed) for my brick fireplace. This will likely mostly be used as a secondary source of heat most of the time but we get a lot of os snow and inevitably lose power once/ twice a year so I want to have a backup plan for these times.

My preferences are below in no particular order. I have zero wood stove experience but have been lurking around the forum trying to learn.

• I think I want an insert that is sticking out as far into the room as I can get it. I would consider a stand-alone stove but I don’t know if it would work with my setup as I’m not sure that I have the height or hearth width to make it work.
• I want a non-catalyst stove that is simple to operate and is high quality

The house is a 1975 1200 sqft ranch with a 1000sqft basement. But the insulation and air sealing have been completed so even with a leaky fireplace my blower door test blew a 1200cfm so it is relatively tight for the age of the house. the fireplace is located down about 4' from the first floor in the Den room and this room is a concrete slab on grade so I can always remove the carpet in front of the hearth if needed for clearance.

Attached are some photos, a floor plan, and some measurements.

The flue is a 12x12 clay tile. From what I have read I want a medium or heavy-weight liner that is insulated. There is a nice SS extension on the flue, can this still be used once the liner is in place?

Below are the inserts that are on my list but open to any others or if there is a reason to stay away from one on the list let me know. I would

• Osburn 3500
• PE Summit (limited supply and may not be able to get it in this year for the tax credit. Both suppliers in my area have questionable reviews)
• Montlake 230 (top end of my price range
• Lopi Evergreen

Thank you!

 

[stoveliker]

Others will be better able to help with the choices.
SOme advice that I can give is: make sure (indeed) the liner is insulated. Better performance and safety.
Get an insulated block off plate so cold chimney air from outside the liner can't drop down on your insert.
Insulate the firebox behind the insert; otherwise you're heating a lot of brick that nicely radiates that heat to the great outdoors.
Do you have dry wood. As in split, stacked, covered, for 2 years or more? Modern inserts want dry, DRY wood. "seasoned wood" sellers don't sell dry wood, in general. If you already have wood, get a moisture meter, then get a split, bring it inside the home, let it get up to room temperature for a day, then split it in half, and measure on the freshly exposed surface parallel to the grain.

 

[Ovationcs257]

Others will be better able to help with the choices.
SOme advice that I can give is: make sure (indeed) the liner is insulated. Better performance and safety.
Get an insulated block off plate so cold chimney air from outside the liner can't drop down on your insert.
Insulate the firebox behind the insert; otherwise you're heating a lot of brick that nicely radiates that heat to the great outdoors.
Do you have dry wood. As in split, stacked, covered, for 2 years or more? Modern inserts want dry, DRY wood. "seasoned wood" sellers don't sell dry wood, in general. If you already have wood, get a moisture meter, then get a split, bring it inside the home, let it get up to room temperature for a day, then split it in half, and measure on the freshly exposed surface parallel to the grain.

Thank you, I do have one face cord of 3-year seasoned wood that I need to use up I will check the levels. I have ordered 2 more cords and I'm looking at building a klin for both firewood and slabs for woodworking.

 

[stoveliker]

That face cord should be good if it was stored off the ground.
Whatever you order won't be good this winter.
Kilns: that's good. There is a solar kiln thread by @Woodsplitter67 (I believe) on here; he seems to be the person with most (and most systematic) data as a function of kiln design parameters.

It should be possible to kiln wood during the coming warm season and have it ready by next burning season. Better start that kiln too early than too late.

 

[Dix]

Welcome to the Forums !

Put the biggest fire box you can afford in there. You can build a smaller fire in a bigger box, but not a bigger fire in a smaller box.

Heat flow to the bedrooms / office might be an issue, some strategically placed small box fans might help, ceiling fans are a plus as well.

I second the getting on your firewood NOW Dry, seasoned wood is a huge part of the success.

 

[john26]

I would cross off the Lopi for the fact the firebox is only 13.5" deep making north south loading not possible with normal size cord wood. I never want to go back to east west loading.

 

[EbS-P]

Personally I’d hold out for the PE. That baffle system is just really good. I have a Drolet. It’s not frills and throws heat well. But to have one this winter the Osborn would be tough to say no too. Haven’t read much about the Montlake

Look into saw dust bricks for this winter.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Id go with the Lopi.. My friend has a large next gen and loves it its run flawlessly for him.. hes heating a 2 story colonial with it.. Hes running oak and cherry through it and is purchasing kiln dry wood from me

The newer stove run bertter with dry wood so if you want the best experience, you need to get your wood supply together. Your a little north of me. Id start getting deliveries of wood now and start stacking.. In my signature are 2 links of how to do a basic kiln. Id ask for green fresh split as it will be cheaper then the not seasoned wood they will sell you.. or see if you can get log length and if you have the capability, process it yourself.. If your not sure about the kiln, just ask.