Wood stove and backdraft

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Sorry if this is stupid but how is that much different than how mine is? In my photo isn’t it the two 45 degree corners at the top and bottom?
Each turn (elbow) is 90º in the current installation instead of 45º as shown in the basic illustration.
 
No, that is the stove pipe damper. It is very possible that you don't need one at all. It too will slow down draft a bit, even when wide open. I'd remove it when reconfiguring the stovepipe.

The stove has the bypass damper lever on the left side. I think the bypass is open on the Defiant when that handle is horizontal and closed when it is vertical.

Is there a 1.5" deep layer of sand on the floor of the firebox? This stove must have that before burning in it.
When I remove the damper won’t there be holes in the pipe? Also, do these pipes pull apart? It looks like where they’re connected they’re not screws and I vaguely remember seeing someone just simple pull them off

There is no, the only burn we’ve done was right on the grates, I will definitely do that
 
When I remove the damper won’t there be holes in the pipe? Also, do these pipes pull apart? It looks like where they’re connected they’re not screws and I vaguely remember seeing someone just simple pull them off

There is no, the only burn we’ve done was right on the grates, I will definitely do that
Yes, there will be holes. If the stove pipe is reconfigured, a new piece may be required.

The stove pipe is supposed to have 3 screws, 120º apart, at each joint. With them removed, it does just pull apart.

Do you have the manual for this stove?
 
Is the stove connected with 6" or 8" stove pipe? You can measure the diameter or maybe read the label on the pipe. It looks like 6" but that may just be the picture.
 
Yes, there will be holes. If the stove pipe is reconfigured, a new piece may be required.

The stove pipe is supposed to have 3 screws, 120º apart, at each joint. With them removed, it does just pull apart.

Do you have the manual for this stove?
Unfortunately I do not. It seems quite old. Okay cool so replace the middle pipe so there’s no damper, move the stove out so that the pipes have more of a 45 degree angle rather than the 90 degree angles, put sand in it, and remove the stickers then give it a go?
 
OK, I was concerned about this. The stove has been improperly installed. It requires 8" stovepipe. The manual says don't use a damper in the stovepipe and the stovepipe should have been screwed together.
 
Is it just a matter of installing a larger pipe or is the connection to the wall (the hole) going to be an issue? Here’s a photo before the owner installed it. Thank you again for all your knowledge.

42189DB1-D9BB-44F8-81E9-E54B2B7EDDDB.jpeg
 
Second thing, I just checked my invoice and when they installed my stainless steel chimney liner for my wood stove (from my basement up to the top of my roof) it says it’s a 5.5” stainless steel liner. Is that a problem?
 
Is it just a matter of installing a larger pipe or is the connection to the wall (the hole) going to be an issue? Here’s a photo before the owner installed it. Thank you again for all your knowledge.

View attachment 311424
Considering this is a new chimney liner, I'm sorry to say that this is a mismatch. If the chimney flue is large enough to accommodate an 8" insulated liner, then changing it may be possible. Or, it might be worth considering a stove that takes a 6" liner instead and selling the old Defiant. A new stove will burn cleaner, use less wood, and will provide a nice view of the fire.
 
Considering this is a new chimney liner, I'm sorry to say that this is a mismatch. If the chimney flue is large enough to accommodate an 8" insulated liner, then changing it may be possible. Or, it might be worth considering a stove that takes a 6" liner instead and selling the old Defiant. A new stove will burn cleaner, use less wood, and will provide a nice view of the fire.
You’re amazing. Thank you. I trust my chimney company and I believe they put the largest size my chimney accommodated.

Can I use a 6” pipe chimney with a 5.5” liner safety?

Also last questions I swear, haha.

Do you recommend a specific brand or model that would go well in my home and a recommendation where people sell these?
 
Second thing, I just checked my invoice and when they installed my stainless steel chimney liner for my wood stove (from my basement up to the top of my roof) it says it’s a 5.5” stainless steel liner. Is that a problem?
Yes, there are not a lot of stoves that say they connect to that. Regency is the only one that comes to mind. How tall is the liner?
 
I trust my chimney company and I believe they put the largest size my chimney accommodated.
They might have been able to put in an oval liner if the chimney has the typical 8"x12" clay tiles. But this is water over the dam now.
 
From our basement and up two more stories
Ok, so this could be a 30' liner. Did they cap the tee or extend the tee with liner down to the cleanout door, with a cap there?
 
Is having the 6” chimney pipe connected to a 5.5” liner okay if I get a wood stove that uses a 6” chimney pipe?
Perhaps. It's not as bad as connecting an 8" stove to a 5.5" liner. I think some Regency stoves permit 5.5".
 
Ok, so this could be a 30' liner. Did they cap the tee or extend the tee with liner down to the cleanout door, with a cap there?
I know they put a chimney cap on top of my chimney but that’s all I know, they told me to clean the clean out door because soot will fall down there over time
 
I know they put a chimney cap on top of my chimney but that’s all I know, they told me to clean the clean out door because soot will fall down there over time
Open the cleanout door and see if the liner ends there with a cap or not. if not, and the tee is open on the bottom, that is another part of the drafting issue.

Also what’s the significance of the height?
A tall flue often draws extra strongly, but there are too many moving parts right now and there is still some missing info about how the liner was installed. Thus the above question.
 
Open the cleanout door and see if the liner ends there with a cap or not. if not, and the tee is open on the bottom, that is another part of the drafting issue.


A tall flue often draws extra strongly, but there are too many moving parts right now and there is still some missing info about how the liner was installed. Thus the above question.
When I open the little door at the bottom here’s my views. One photo is behind the door, one is looking straight up not sure what this, the second is the farther back hole going up and you can see the bottom of the stainless see liner

DEA26F67-E7CE-4582-9249-61A1A873C050.jpeg 5FFEE3EB-B4DD-4DFD-AF17-68D517F59E4A.jpeg 34D5A47C-E425-46E2-BE58-38561B889C5F.jpeg
 
It looks like they didn't cap the tee and it's an 8x8 flue tile. The uncapped tee is hurting the draft. It's possible, you may not need an ERV or outside air, just a different stove. If you close the damper on the stovepipe. Then open the cleanout door and hold a burning incense stick or cigarette by the cleanout door opening, does the smoke get pulled up into the chimney? If so the draft is present, just leaky.

We're not going to answer all questions tonight. I'll pick this up in the morning. @bholler may have some thoughts on this too.