Yeah, pretty country there in NH, though I too can do without the snow. If I want to be in it, a short trip to the mountains is all it takes. In spite of growing up in NY and CT, we stumbled into WA almost 40 years ago and never left. My original plan was to live in the Appalachian highlands of NC, but my wife preferred the west and likes a city nearby.
i think the big lesson to be learned here is to not take shortcuts. as a manufacturer this type of thread is worrisome, it exposes potential issue which can happen when use of a unit is being done outside of the parameters we set forth to operate in a safe manner. use only the controls built into the stove even if they take a bit longer they do so for a reason.
funny thing about shortcuts , usually folks don't get lost on the "main road"
I agree about raking the coals +1The usual response to this procedure is to not spread the coals, but rather rake them forward, then put your load on top of that.
This should help avoid a fast outgassing of a lot of wood at once.
Glad you learned something here and are making the needed adjustments.
I had a smaller version of your situation early this season, before I adjusted my air control (much older stove). It's gooder now.
The usual response to this procedure is to not spread the coals, but rather rake them forward, then put your load on top of that.
This should help avoid a fast outgassing of a lot of wood at once.
Glad you learned something here and are making the needed adjustments.
I had a smaller version of your situation early this season, before I adjusted my air control (much older stove). It's gooder now.
The stove is built to take tremendous heat. 650-700 degrees a couple of times a day for many years. The issues that result from ashpan use are typically found at start up. When the stove is room temperature and the ashpan is opened to start a fire the extreme temp difference from one side of the base to the other is just too much and something has to give. more often then not its the base plate that gives.
Ok, I'm trying really hard to follow how this happened, I sure as heck don't want to experience this myself! I only use the damper to adjust the airflow, don't even use the ash door to empty ashes
however, I do crack the door with open damper to get it started and then close the door, wait for the flue temp to get about 400 and tap back the damper until I get a steady fire, eventually closing it most or all the way. If I cut off the air too quick is that when it can blow back? I just checked every section of pipe and have 3 screws but am freaked out about this post and the post from before about the same thing. Can someone try to explain this to me, like you are talking to a five year old? I'm far from dumb but I am not grasping this concept 
Thank you Brother Bart. My hubby thinks I'm paranoid as it is but when I showed him these posts and the one earler this month too, he heard me out. We have both had fires we strated (usually cold starts) where we think its going good only to come back in the living room a few minutes later to it going out, just smoldering. I then, usually pull the damper out to try to get it back up. If that can lead to this blow back, then what SHOULD I do if my fire goes out to prevent this from happening? Is it better to open the door? Sorry for all the questions but if this has happened to many of you long time burners, a year old burner can't be too careful
My installer was by far not the cheapest but is known as the best. Considering we had been told time and time again we couldn't install a stove because our steps were too close and open (literally blocks of wood bolted together) not to mention the floor and roof supports aren't even close to lining up, they did a beautiful job and the fire inspector was even impressed. Granted, everything but the 18" out of the stove is double/triple wall and that jacked up the price but I'm confident it is a good install, it's the operators I'm worried about!
