Looking for advice

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Thanks for the info on the Drolet...very interesting. I will follow-up with Fyrebug.

I'll see if I can get some more info on the cast peice for the Harman. I actually didn't care for the dealer that showed it to me so I'm working with a different Harman dealer. Either way, if I buy a Harman, I'm most likely going back to purchase the cast unit so I'll let you know.

Thanks again!
 
jumpingin said:
VTrider-One of the reasons I was looking at the Maxx is because of the larger fan. I still may go that way as it can only help push the air through the ductwork if I go that route.

The 455cfm blower sure does move A LOT of air, this will definatley be an advantage if you plan on hooking it into any ductwork. Many here also have those 'in-line' duct fans which I hear pretty good results from.
 
VTrider said:
jumpingin said:
VTrider-One of the reasons I was looking at the Maxx is because of the larger fan. I still may go that way as it can only help push the air through the ductwork if I go that route.

The 455cfm blower sure does move A LOT of air, this will definatley be an advantage if you plan on hooking it into any ductwork. Many here also have those 'in-line' duct fans which I hear pretty good results from.

One word of caution if ducting to the Maxx. Vent temps will be pretty high. Yes its got the 455 CFM blower, But its variable speed in the heat ranges and most likely on the low side for ducting heat with. Take a look at my Omega mod thread. I had to double the blower size to reduce my duct temps. So in other words the Maxx has the large blower, They just don't crank the speed up intil the high speed. Don't want you to burn your toes!

Really for just a fraction more the Revolution or Endurance would be the ticket if you plan to duct the heat upstairs. The blower and its speed is higher to reduce the duct temps.
 
j-takeman said:
One word of caution if ducting to the Maxx. Vent temps will be pretty high. Yes its got the 455 CFM blower, But its variable speed in the heat ranges and most likely on the low side for ducting heat with. Take a look at my Omega mod thread. I had to double the blower size to reduce my duct temps. So in other words the Maxx has the large blower, They just don't crank the speed up intil the high speed. Don't want you to burn your toes!

Once again, there is 'good' advice and then there is the 'real-world', tried & tested advice as in the quote above from some of our well respected members here in this community - not that I know from first hand experience or anything, but I would definitely agree with the statement 'if your thinking about a ducting mod with the Maxx then...."

* when you think you might be interested, go back and read 'every' thread in Hearth.com regarding the subject
* pay close attention to the temperature tolerances of any material you will use (including duct insulation)
* the shortest route (and most efficient for heat transfer) between "A" and "B" in this relationship is a straight line
* make sure that you research duct diameter / air flow so as not restrict airflow and stress the stove / blower
* did I mention mastic, metal tape, insulation & mechanical fasteners?
* Any floor vents, registers, in-line fans or louvers should not contain ANY plastic whatsoever
* when you think you are ready, go back and read 'every' thread in Hearth.com regarding the subject
 
Jay-I just finished going through your Omega mod thread. Sounds like you did a great job moving the heat upstairs. I'm still doing a bunch of reasearch as I'm concerned about making this investment just to heat the basement....that's not the goal!! Thanks for the input! Question for you: if I'm ducting, do I still need to be looking at the high BTU stoves?


VTrider-Sounds like you're giving me some real world advice...thank you. You're absolutely right, I have a lot of reading to do before I make any final decisions. This is really an outstanding forum with great information. I have been reading many of the threads but there is so much information in this forum...it can take some time. Thanks for the help! Are you using the Maxx to heat the upstairs?
 
jumpingin said:
Jay- Question for you: if I'm ducting, do I still need to be looking at the high BTU stoves??????

I'd go straight to something you can just duct right to it. It should have a high cfm blower and less messing around to hook the duct up. If I had mine to do all over I would have just bought the furnace or a stove like the Drolet that excepts ducting.

I'm heating almost 2K sqft. and I haven't had the stove above medium since the duct install. But I like having extra horsepower just in case I loose power or forget to fill the stove. I can set it on 4 and raise the house temps faster if needed. Your heating a bit more so I wouldn't go to far below 50K BTU's JIC. But something larger will aslo work fine. Just don't under power or when it gets cold you might need to use other forms of heat to keep warm.

Keep us posted.
 
jumpingin said:
VTrider-Sounds like you're giving me some real world advice...thank you. You're absolutely right, I have a lot of reading to do before I make any final decisions. This is really an outstanding forum with great information. I have been reading many of the threads but there is so much information in this forum...it can take some time. Thanks for the help! Are you using the Maxx to heat the upstairs?

I am successfully heating my upstairs with the Maxx in the basement (so far) - This is all relatively new to me as well & my first year doing it with a pellet stove, I've heated the house from the basement for the last 7 seasons with a basement wood stove just fine and just decided to make the switch. It's weather has been really mild so far and Winter just started - this has been working out much better than I expected, hopefully I'll have the same opinion come April ;)
 
jumpingin said:
Thanks Dexter...No ceiling in the basement. Also, no issues with pipes freezing as it only get down to about 58 on the coldest days of the year...usually around 61 during the winter.

I will take a look at the furnace/boilers ironpony. They must go through some pellets??

Where in Maine are you living where it only gets down to 58 on the coldest days of the year????
 
I also agree with the 'go for more horsepower' route which Jay mentioned earlier. When I was planning this switchover, I wanted to cover all my bases as they say. Dealer thought I was crazy....heating 1,400 sq. ft house w/70,000 btu stove (I still might be), but i'm glad I didn't change my mind. Forgot to switch stove back on last night after a quick cleaning, woke up this morning and upstairs was 61 degrees - took just over an hour to get upstairs back to 66f, house was back at 70f before I even drank my coffee!

Coldest morning outside this year at the house (N. Vermont) read 7 degrees on my thermometer. Woke up at 7:00am to 70 degrees upstairs, Maxx was set to fire up at 4:00am at heat level #3 (60%). It's nice to know that I still have the two highest heat settings to play with when old man Winter decides to throw those -10 degree nights my way.
 
Jay-I'm going to do some more research on the Drolet. Smoke Show sent me a link, Dexter spoke very highly of them and now you bring them up. Sounds like they are considered a very good unit!! It sure would be easier to purchase a stove ready for ductwork. Thanks


VTrider-What kind of square footage are you heating and how are you moving the hot air?


Subsailor-Dexter had been talking about the temperature in his basement and pipes freezing. When I said 58 degrees, I was talking about inside my basement.
 
Thanks for clarifying that.
 
jumpingin said:
VTrider-What kind of square footage are you heating and how are you moving the hot air?

Heating area is 1,400sq ft and hot air is moved mainly from a passive duct system / registers.

When we bought/moved into our house - the central heating system relied on a large wood stove located in the basement. An oversized, metal 'hood' was located over the stove which branched out into two 8" ducts which then extended about 25-30 feet terminating to two 4x14 registers going into the main dining/living area. There was also a secondary 6" branch from one of the 8" ducts which then divided and terminated into two 4x10 registers into small bedrooms.

The entire setup was passive and worked incredibly well for the design. Although 'old school', this was the design the house only knew for over 25 years, up until this year when I decided to replace the wood stove with a pellet stove.

My situation is a little unique, in that the ducting and registers were already in place when I bought the home and although this has worked for over 25 years, I honestly would never think about cutting into the floors, adding registers and ducting just to 'mod' it into a pellet stove - I would've gone straight to the pellet furnace option. The thing is though, that all I really had to do was ditch the hood and attach a 6x14X8 duct boot which now extends to the front of the blower - very similar to Jay's Omega mod.

I should point out though, that although I feel that this was a relatively 'safe' decision on my part, considering all the factors, there are those who will whole heartily disagree and their opinion should be weighed into your decision if you want to follow this route.
 
VTrider said:
jumpingin said:
VTrider-What kind of square footage are you heating and how are you moving the hot air?

Heating area is 1,400sq ft and hot air is moved mainly from a passive duct system / registers.

When we bought/moved into our house - the central heating system relied on a large wood stove located in the basement. An oversized, metal 'hood' was located over the stove which branched out into two 8" ducts which then extended about 25-30 feet terminating to two 4x14 registers going into the main dining/living area. There was also a secondary 6" branch from one of the 8" ducts which then divided and terminated into two 4x10 registers into small bedrooms.

The entire setup was passive and worked incredibly well for the design. Although 'old school', this was the design the house only knew for over 25 years, up until this year when I decided to replace the wood stove with a pellet stove.

My situation is a little unique, in that the ducting and registers were already in place when I bought the home and although this has worked for over 25 years, I honestly would never think about cutting into the floors, adding registers and ducting just to 'mod' it into a pellet stove - I would've gone straight to the pellet furnace option. The thing is though, that all I really had to do was ditch the hood and attach a 6x14X8 duct boot which now extends to the front of the blower - very similar to Jay's Omega mod.

I should point out though, that although I feel that this was a relatively 'safe' decision on my part, considering all the factors, there are those who will whole heartily disagree and their opinion should be weighed into your decision if you want to follow this route.

VT, What temps you seeing off the floor registers?

What I got out of all this was install them such that its the same as a furnace duct system. Depending on local code. You'll need to use fire block sealers and such. Duct also needs to be sealed to the heating device and return air should be also used. Many rules and reg's on this. Smoke and CO detectors are also a must. If you install ducting properly, Whats the big deal?

Couple of things the OP needs to check on for a new install. One is a permit on the install and second is an inspection. Your insurance company will also have some concerns. I'd do some digging on whats proper code for ducting. You local fire marshal should have some info for you. Mine did and was very helpful and provided lots of tips and tricks.
 
Thanks for the help...Have a Merry Christmas!!!
 
j-takeman said:
VT, What temps you seeing off the floor registers?

What I got out of all this was install them such that its the same as a furnace duct system. Depending on local code. You'll need to use fire block sealers and such. Duct also needs to be sealed to the heating device and return air should be also used. Many rules and reg's on this. Smoke and CO detectors are also a must. If you install ducting properly, Whats the big deal?

I recently just picked up one of those K-type thermometers w/probe. Each register (4) stays within a few degrees of each other. I just started keeping track, but found airflow at registers upstairs were around the neighborhood of 120f - 135f - this is on setting #2 - #3 with Curran pellets which consist of the majority of my stash and are really nothing spectacular in terms of heat, just okay. House also came with a 16x14 grate which is pretty much right above the stove in the floor above, this acts as cold return. Basement steps located in center of house, door is always open - this acts as a cold return as well seeing that there is a 'river' of cool air at your feet moving down, just 5ft above exists a very warm airflow moving upstairs, i'm just waiting for it to rain and thunder one day on the stairwell!

CO detectors in all 3 bedrooms, each level of the house as well in each room w/combustion appliance, 8 or 9 smoke detectors in the house.
 
This is a previous post I had that explains my situation......

I know this forum has gone over this topic many times. And most would agree to put the stove in the room you want to heat. I decided to put my Englander 25 pdv in the basement of my raised ranch. Total square footage is about 1700 sf. This home is well insulated, built in the early 80’s. I installed it with an outside air kit as it said in the directions, and i would recommends this to anyone that has a “tight†home. As everyone has said, the main trouble is getting the air to circulate to the upstairs. While the stairway to the upstairs in a raised ranch help in this, I also chose to cut two holes in the floor upstairs. One in the kitchen, and one in the livingroom. (please be careful as to where your electrical runs through your home between levels, I came close. lol) I then installed two booster fans http://www.atrendyhome.com/durebofan.html. They hum a little, but you get used to them. As far as this setup working…I sit here in the basement in short sleeves, on a windy day in upstate NY, forecast is for 1 foot or more of lake effect snow. tempt is 16 degrees, 1 with the windchill. Its around 80ish down here, running the stove at #7 setting. I went up stairs and its 73 in the living room, and kitchen, and in the mid 60’s in the bedrooms. This home had only electric heat, and no duct work, so this setup is working out great for me. I use about 4 ton of pellets a winter. Life is cozy warm…....
 
Thanks to all for the input.

Wow, there's a bunch of good info throughout this forum!! I been doing a bunch of reading and I'm now leaning toward a main floor install. As I said earlier, the house isn't really best situated for a stove on the main floor but I think that's my best strategy for success. Over the weekend, I started looking into stoves with a small footprint but still some pretty good strength. I came across the Enviro Evolution which I like for several reasons. It's not very wide or deep and it has good clearances for a corner install. I'm still getting some good BTU's (45K) with the small footprint. It has an 80 lb hopper and an integrated hearth pad.

I'm interested in learning more about the operational aspects of the stove. I'm also interested in hearing general thoughts on the Evolution. I went to a dealer today but got the standard pitch. Hoping for some real world input...

Thanks!
 
Well, after a lot of reading, research and many "final decisions" I think I have made a decision on heating the house with pellets. When I didn't see any responses to my last post I figured the Evolution wasn't very popular. I did some digging around the forum and didn't find much info on them. Called the dealer again and he confessed that they aren't a production stove any longer but are special order only.

So...here are my thoughts..I'm at the P43 which will be located on the main floor. Roughly 1600 sq. ft. so I think that will be enough HP so that I don't have to push it hard??? If I need to throw something in the basement, I can do that at a later point in time. I'm interested in thoughts on the P43.

Also, being new to this, I'm looking for recommendations on pellets. Dealer is pushing Cubex but they seem expensive @ $300 a ton.

Thanks
 
I like the footprint just looking for more BTU's...thanks
 
Dont think you can go wrong with the P-43. Super proven stove and should handle that sq footage with ease.

Congratulations. When can we see some pics?
 
Hey Dexter...good to hear from you. I think I'm going to pull the trigger tomorrow with an install on Friday. Found a dealer I really like who's been around for 30 years. I talked to him about bumping up to the P61A but he said absolutely not as it wasn't needed for the square footage. I like someone who gives straight advice even when it means less money in his pocket.

I'll try to get some pics up Friday night or Saturday...pretty excited!!

Know anything about these Cubex pellets?

Thanks
 
A good dealer is as important as a good stove, sounds like your off to a good start.

Cubex get really good feedback on the forum. $300 seems a lil spendy with todays prices.
 
jumpingin said:
Hey Dexter...good to hear from you. I think I'm going to pull the trigger tomorrow with an install on Friday. Found a dealer I really like who's been around for 30 years. I talked to him about bumping up to the P61A but he said absolutely not as it wasn't needed for the square footage. I like someone who gives straight advice even when it means less money in his pocket.

I'll try to get some pics up Friday night or Saturday...pretty excited!!

Know anything about these Cubex pellets?

Thanks

I live in Ohio......................... The land of $hitty Pellets. (Compared to Okies, Turmans, Hamers, etc)

Like Smoke Show stated, they get good reviews here. But $300 is pretty high IMO.

I would want to test burn a few bags. Before I bought a ton. See if the dealer will throw a ton in on the deal???

Would be plenty worth it then.

Looking forward to pics......

(There is a P-38 thats 3 yrs old on Craiglist by me.. Guy wants $750 and includes very nice corner pad and venting/ Wife wont let me/ 4 Wood burning devices i the house and 1 in the shop is enough/ What does she know???)
 
Thanks Smoke Show. That's the way I feel. You can buy these anywhere but what really counts is what happens after the sale....especially if you're under warranty!!

I'm going to continue to look for a good pellet at a reasonable price.
 
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