2021/22 VC Owner thread

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Have not tried either of these mods. When you take the secondary thermometer out, are you essentially closing the secondary air flap?
Leave the probe in, some people just unhook the linkage so the secondary air stays closed, or at a fixed position.
 
Leave the probe in, some people just unhook the linkage so the secondary air stays closed, or at a fixed position.
Think I might need to do this. Just cant keep the stove from creeping into the 1600s (sometimes 1700s). Any video or thread that describes the process? Never even taken the cover off the secondary air to be honest.
 
Think I might need to do this. Just cant keep the stove from creeping into the 1600s (sometimes 1700s). Any video or thread that describes the process? Never even taken the cover off the secondary air to be honest.
Remove the rear heat shield and it’a right there, you’ll see the linkage down to the door from the coil. Disconnect and tighten the screw so the door doesn’t open ( I stuffed some tin foil in mine before tightening the screw just to be sure it’s blocked).
 
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Can any one confirm if this is how their stove air control operates with the air door.


Mine travels the full distance but I had a similar situation. Try loosening the bolt on the door with the handle all the way open, push the door open by hand, pull the cable slightly and tighten the bolt with it open. At least I think that’s how I got the best travel out of it, it’s been a few years.
 
Mine travels the full distance but I had a similar situation. Try loosening the bolt on the door with the handle all the way open, push the door open by hand, pull the cable slightly and tighten the bolt with it open. At least I think that’s how I got the best travel out of it, it’s been a few years.
Thanks. My cable was pinched on the inside from the factory. The dealer fixed it but I don't think it's right. It feels like it's catching it or rubbing somewhere.
 
In think it looks fine
 
Looks good. I have to give you props for being able to get behind the stove each time !
 
Have not tried either of these mods. When you take the secondary thermometer out, are you essentially closing the secondary air flap?
Don’t take the secondary probe out because you will be left with a hole to plug. Just disconnect the little bar attached to the shutter. Leave the shutter fully closed. I put two round magnets on the bottom of the stove to keep the shutter in place. Also if you take out the pivot screw there should be a little round washer that keeps the shutter moving freely. Take that washer out. Reinstall the shutter screw snug.
 
You shouldn't have to do this. These stoves are something "special"
Special in the sense that they are the only stove on the market where you have to keep a toolbox on the hearth as well.
 
Hi all, I'm new to VC and wood stoves in general. Just got a Montpelier II put in 5 days ago, and we've had a fire every night. The installer warned that the first one or two fires might have some fumes from the paint curing, but we're still noticing it after 5. Additionally, yesterday at one point I turned off the blower and the carbon monoxide detector chirped. I put the blower back on, and a fan in the window (it was a relatively warm night anyway) and didn't hear from it again, but being new to this all I want to make sure that there isn't something wrong. Other than cardboard starter, I've only burned wood in it,

Additionally, the fire seems to like to crank up to full speed and just stay there. Any tips on how to keep it a little bit slower? I've been loading it East/West with 4-5 logs to start.

Thanks in advance, and other than the above, I've been enjoying this so far.
 
Hi all, I'm new to VC and wood stoves in general. Just got a Montpelier II put in 5 days ago, and we've had a fire every night. The installer warned that the first one or two fires might have some fumes from the paint curing, but we're still noticing it after 5. Additionally, yesterday at one point I turned off the blower and the carbon monoxide detector chirped. I put the blower back on, and a fan in the window (it was a relatively warm night anyway) and didn't hear from it again, but being new to this all I want to make sure that there isn't something wrong. Other than cardboard starter, I've only burned wood in it,

Additionally, the fire seems to like to crank up to full speed and just stay there. Any tips on how to keep it a little bit slower? I've been loading it East/West with 4-5 logs to start.

Thanks in advance, and other than the above, I've been enjoying this so far.
Is this a fixed air rate stove? (Not sure of the correct terminology). Is there an air control? And stop using cardboard to start your fire. You are going to clog up your cap with sh!$ if you haven’t done so already.
 
Is this a fixed air rate stove? (Not sure of the correct terminology). Is there an air control? And stop using cardboard to start your fire. You are going to clog up your cap with sh!$ if you haven’t done so already.
Oof thanks for the heads up. I saw the cardboard thing as a tip somewhere and it did definitely seem to help get things started but I’ll stop that for sure.

It is a fixed rate unfortunately. The only “adjustment” is there’s a startup timer that basically opens up an airway and then closes it when the timer finishes. From the reading I’ve done since I posted I think I’ll have to focus on the size of my splits and how I arrange them to try and control the burn rate. Alas.
 
I have a theory for the guys who are experiencing high griddle temps mid fire. I’m not convinced that you have an air leak. When you are mid fire and reading 700ish on your stove top get down next to your stove and look up through the doors. A few times I have noticed that at first glance it’s dark as could be looking into the stove but a closer look reveals crazy inferno blue flames between the top of the wood and the griddle top. Granted I fill my stove all the way up to the griddle top so not sure what you all are doing. When this happens my stove top thermo is reading in the 700-750 range.
 
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Oof thanks for the heads up. I saw the cardboard thing as a tip somewhere and it did definitely seem to help get things started but I’ll stop that for sure.

It is a fixed rate unfortunately. The only “adjustment” is there’s a startup timer that basically opens up an airway and then closes it when the timer finishes. From the reading I’ve done since I posted I think I’ll have to focus on the size of my splits and how I arrange them to try and control the burn rate. Alas.
There’s some diy treads on making fire starters here somewhere in this forum. In the past I would just buy a big box of fatwood from plow & hearth. Now I just use all the scraps from splitting wood. I also peel off all the splinters and stringy stuff from my firewood as I bring it into the house.
 
Is there an easy way to tell what is steam and what is smoke? I’m burning my flexburn for the first time this week I have the cat package and it is in the operation zone. I’m getting light smoke/steam out of my chimney with the cat engaged. I’m burning biobricks so I wouldn’t think that there is much moisture in them.
View attachment 283887
this looks like a clean burn.. clean burns look white ish and disappears quickly.. smoke is darker thicker
 
Hi folks. Thinking of getting a fan kit for my encore 2040 cat c. The vc fan seems kind of expensive. My question is: Are fan kits specific for each stove. Do I have to get a vc fan? If not does anyone have any recommendations?
 
Hi all! My name's Tim. I wanted to introduce myself and my stove and say thank-you. I have a Defiant 1975-CAT-C we purchased it new last spring and had it professionally installed. I've included a picture of the install. It was put in with more than the minimum clearances, but sometimes the walls got kind of warm, so we installed the tin siding on metal stud spacers for a little extra margin since the walls still got hot sometimes and there is a window really close to the stove too. You all greatly reduced my learning curve hence my thanks.

For reference we live near Omaha, NE. Our house was built in 1928 and has no insulation in the walls but a bunch on the ceiling. It is about 2000 sq. ft. when the basement, main floor and attic are combined. So far the stove is doing an excellent job keeping the house a comfortable temperature. I've been getting along pretty well with it thanks to the emphasis on wood quality on here, some people's stove operation flow charts have been extremely helpful as well, and other miscellaneous insights that I have read that have helped me think correctly about stove operation.

Thanks all and happy heating!
16369288523516739377405430314204.jpg
 
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Hi all! My name's Tim. I wanted to introduce myself and my stove and say thank-you. I have a Defiant 1975-CAT-C we purchased it new last spring and had it professionally installed. I've included a picture of the install. It was put in with more than the minimum clearances, but sometimes the walls got kind of warm, so we installed the tin siding on metal stud spacers for a little extra margin since the walls still got hot sometimes and there is a window really close to the stove too. You all greatly reduced my learning curve hence my thanks.

For reference we live near Omaha, NE. Our house was built in 1928 and has no insulation in the walls but a bunch on the ceiling. It is about 2000 sq. ft. when the basement, main floor and attic are combined. So far the stove is doing an excellent job keeping the house a comfortable temperature. I've been getting along pretty well with it thanks to the emphasis on wood quality on here, some people's stove operation flow charts have been extremely helpful as well, and other miscellaneous insights that I have read that have helped me think correctly about stove operation.

Thanks all and happy heating!
View attachment 285435
Do you have the rear heat shield on the stove?
 
Do you have the rear heat shield on the stove?
Yes, the heat shield seems to work very well. I don't think it is really even an option not too. I'm pretty sure it was already installed when the stove was delivered.

The hot spots were actually straight out from the sides, and we're never dangerously hot, but given 100 year old framing and the widow we decided that having a little more margin wouldn't hurt anything. It technically wouldn't work for reducing clearances because the sheet metal isn't thick enough, but I can run my hand up behind to the formerly hot place which is now cool to the touch. In fact the tin, while closer to the stove, never has gotten as hot as the wall used to.
 
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Welp this is my sign. Tomorrow when the stove cools down I am going to be closing the secondary flap for good. This is ridiculous. Wish me luck.

cat.jpeg
 
A bit on a high side. Seal it with aluminum foil.
 
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