10 Cord Wood Shed Finished!

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Nice!

I'd cross stack the edges of your stacks to avoid them leaning too much on the boards.

Also, screws are less strong than nails. (Hence no screws in e.g. framing of homes.)
 
Nice!

I'd cross stack the edges of your stacks to avoid them leaning too much on the boards.

Also, screws are less strong than nails. (Hence no screws in e.g. framing of homes.)
Do you think I should go back through and add some nails to each board? Or will three two inch screws per post, so 9 screws per board be enough?
 
Depends on how far the boards will bend; screws do fair when being pulled straight, but poorly when shear forces are present. If the boards bow out a lot, more shear forces appear.

I'd add a 3" nail every where you have screws there to take the shear forces

Maybe the boards would crack first then...
 
For my 2nd wood shed, I used formerly owned pallets for the floor. Just like the #1 wood shed, I put that black weed block down first. This provides some protection against ground moisture and keeps the weeds down.

Nice looking wood shed: Looking forward to seeing it full!
 
that was my first thought too
I can take a measuring tape out and take pictures if anyone needs proof 😄😁This weekend we moved about 5-5.5 cords in the right hand side, it is 10 feet deep, 10 feet wide, and 7-7.5 feet tall of firewood densely packed.

I have to admit, I never would have thought this would fit ten cords either, but its incredible how many cords fit into a dense cube.
 
I’m thinking about building something similar. Are there any concerns with the stuff in the middle not seasoning well because it’s not getting as much exposure to the elements?
Are your rows densely packed or are you leaving some space for air circulation?
 
I’m thinking about building something similar. Are there any concerns with the stuff in the middle not seasoning well because it’s not getting as much exposure to the elements?
Are your rows densely packed or are you leaving some space for air circulation?
I dense pack my 3 cords bays. Never had a problem with drying.

Having said that: My woods sheds get lots of winds plus the firewood I'm using now was put up by March 2016.
 
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Sorry I'm late to the thread but I built one that is very similar and the only thing I thought of right away was the sides have no bracing. In the rear you put in those diagonals, the sides would benefit from them too.

Then you could have painted the shed before filling it. I like stain or paint to protect the wood and keep it looking nice.

I do like how you added posts to the center of the three short walls. I spanned the 10 feet with 2x6 horizontals and I think intermediate posts would be a help.

Mine is the same shape too and to avoid side forces from the wood to the walls I stack a row down all four sides. then fill in the middle with 6 rows. All four corners get a cribbed stack. Wood shrinks a lot as it dries, you'll be able to see that now.

On edit, screws are very strong. No need to fret. Just like nails, you can buy strong screws or weak screws. To really worry or be critical of the screw choice you would need to know the specific screws and nails to compare. I used a lot of screws too. The reason they frame houses with nails is cost. Labor and materials cost is lower when spitting nails from a nail gun.
 
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Nice looking shed. I recently built one similar to this. Paint makes big difference in making it look nice. But you can do that in the spring when it's not as full.
 
Today we got the rest of the firewood moved into the shed, moved about a half cord onto the covered front porch too. Feels great to have all the wood under a roof! Also went through and added three inch nails to all the side cladding to strengthen it just in case in addition to the screws.

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As for using pallets that need to be replaced, a solution may be to use rocks. I live in a rocky area where this is easier, but I find flat or mostly flat rocks and put them on the ground. My first row of wood goes on the rocks. Think of it like laying pavers. Rocks do not rot after several years so will never need to be replaced!
 
Why did you sink the posts in concrete instead of using steel anchor plates? Your method seems more cost effective.
Was it hard to plumb the long heavy posts?
 
Why did you sink the posts in concrete instead of using steel anchor plates? Your method seems more cost effective.
Was it hard to plumb the long heavy posts?
No reason for the concrete other than that's what I was familiar with! It wasn't too difficult to plumb them, we laid out the grid with string and extra stakes (copied what we saw them doing when they built our pole barn) and were able to get it fairly square keeping the posts flush against the string. Then as we filled in the concrete dirt just kept checking the level. I am sure its not "perfect", but its so close you wouldn't notice and came out pretty square when we put the roof on.
 
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Looks great.
I have front and back open sides because my pile builds over time and the stuff in the back (so to speak) will be the first I will want to use as it has been drying the longest.
 
This just gives me more drive to get mine done. I was supposed to do it last year.....
I have also been looking at your pictures every few days. Looks great!
 
Very nice looking shed. I have similar, but 8x8 bays. Made 3 then added a 4th. I loosely stack enough wood for one season in 2, then have the other 2 for the following year. Always stay ahead 2 years that way. Wood dries pretty good but you have to stack it loose, lots of air gaps.
 
Very nice looking shed. I have similar, but 8x8 bays. Made 3 then added a 4th. I loosely stack enough wood for one season in 2, then have the other 2 for the following year. Always stay ahead 2 years that way. Wood dries pretty good but you have to stack it loose, lots of air gaps.
I notice with my shed I will stack right to the very top and 2 years later when I'm ready to burn it, everything has settled / shrunk a good 5-10" lower then the main beam on top
 
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Yes, same here. For the pine that I stacked last summer, I already gained about 3". (Pine going faster than the oak, of course, and possibly shrinking more in total too.)
 
A little air space in the stacks helps with drying in my shed but I don’t leave any space between the rows and can absolutely state for fact that it does not hinder the seasoning in the center of the shed.
I do the same thing. I'm not spending all that time, money and time to build an air shed. I want it to store firewood. I fill it to the brim. When I need it, it will be dry.

Caveat: Any wood I put up, I don't need for at least five years. :)

Looks good OP! 🍻
 
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A few updates - spent the past few days staining the shed with a oil deck stain, turned out nice! Also split enough wood to refill the shed for the two years from now. Now I just have to stack it all!

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Got all the wood I split stacked and put up, back to ten cords in the shed. Also staked out an area to put the rounds as I cut them until I split them next summer. Staying 1-1.5 years ahead right now.

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Great feeling, isn't it!!!
 
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Your shed looks awesome! I'm looking to build something very similar to yours. Did you happen to use any plans to build it?