2015/2016 VC Owners thread

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I have been dealing with smoke out the cap even when the cat reads 1300 and GT at 450-500. Frustrating.
 
You sure it is steam?
 
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I can only imagine what some of you guys are dealing with on draft. We got somewhere near 0F last night. Rarely even go single digit here. Its amazing how much more draft I get. Like a vacuum up the chimney. More often I have the opposite problem if I try to start when its not cold enough or damp I can get an occasional back puff.
 
You sure ognia jot steem?
It could be but I'm not convinced it's completely steam. I know my damper gaskets needs some attention. doesn't quite pass the dollar bill test.
 
It could be but I'm not convinced it's completely steam. I know my damper gaskets needs some attention. doesn't quite pass the dollar bill test.
Sorry about the funny words, that is what happens when you use auto correct and you forget to switch back to English keyboard.

Is the smoke white or grey? You could tighten the damper screw.
 
Sorry about the funny words, that is what happens when you use auto correct and you forget to switch back to English keyboard.

Is the smoke white or grey? You could tighten the damper screw.
It's white for the most part. I plan on tightening the damper once I can give the stove a break.
 
It's white for the most part. I plan on tightening the damper once I can give the stove a break.
Then I would say it is steam. I get that too, even with cat going at 1500, gt550 and flue probe 400.
I would not worry about it. When it is around 32 or up and you get smoke with those stove temps then I would investigate the damper and others things.
 
It's white for the most part.
Are you seeing this on a fresh load? That's when I usually see steam, then it clears up once more of the moisture leaves the wood.
 
Then I would say it is steam. I get that too, even with cat going at 1500, gt550 and flue probe 400.
I would not worry about it. When it is around 32 or up and you get smoke with those stove temps then I would investigate the damper and others things.

Agreed, white that dissipates within 5-10 feet of the stack is steam. Smoke is grey or black and lingers.

On a cold day like today I get tons of steam. Drove through Boston today and every high rise had billowing plumes of steam. The cold does it.
 
Agreed, white that dissipates within 5-10 feet of the stack is steam.
I've noticed that steam will carry a good distance further than that if it's humid out.
 
It will smoke on a reload for a bit than it all disapates within 10'. It just seems thick at times. I'm burning ash around 16%mc
 
We finally got chilly enough to light up the stove this year!
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It was just a little guy, but it was nice to sit down and enjoy. I loaded it up again this morning and am curious how it is still going (i wish i was there).

we have someone who is going to be staying at our house during the day for a little while, and I wanted to give them a quick down and dirty on how to load, what to watch for, etc. I was thinking about making a quick instruction sheet for them, and wanted to include temps to look out for. I have an IR thermometer that lives near the stove, but I wanted to run through this and get verification before I printed off.

If i say, the following, is this pretty accurate?
- Flue temp should be >250º and between 250º and 450º
- griddle temp 450º to 650º
- close air to keep griddle temp around 450º
- Engage cat when 3-4" of coals on bottom
- Cat temp between 500º and 1700º (1100º ideal)
- close air when cat temp is around 1100º
- reload when griddle temp <300º
- freshen fire when cat temp is <500º
 
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I ran a quick one the other night. Got a new flex liner gonna put it in a few weeks.

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About time to start the new 16/17 thread. Where's Mr. Harkin @jharkin
 
I had one eve fire so far (two weeks ago). It has been a very warm Oct so far.
The temps are cooling off starting today, day highs in the 55 and night lows 40s. I believe I will have eve fires this week starting tonight!!
 
Only 52F in mid afternoon. My wife asked if we are going to have a fire tonight.
 
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Hello everyone. Just joined the forum today--I'm in the process of a partial rebuild of my 2550 (purchased in 1999) and have been following the excellent rebuild thread by jharkin and others posted back in 10/13. I have all the innards removed (and cleaned up), waiting for delivery of new refractory assembly and gaskets, cement, etc.
I have a couple questions as I start to think about reassembly, mainly concerning the upper FB: When I removed it, there was a spacer at the end of the damper rod, but I didn't see a washer. It probably helps with the action of the damper handle--seems like I should include one when I reassemble, right?

I'm going with gaskets on the sides of the upper FB and a heavy bead of stove cement on the top edge. The bolts that secure it pass right thru the gasket...just stop the gasket short on each side of the hole to allow the bolt to go thru? I think I saw an image somewhere showing that...

One other thing I was thinking about: On the fire back kit pdf it says to install the combustor and access cover on the refractory assembly before I install the upper FB...wonder why? Seems like the cover might just get in the way of an already tricky and tight motion getting it back in place--so easy to crush the lip on the cover!

Sure do appreciate any advice anyone can offer.

Danny
 

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I am a new owner of an Encore 2040.

Is there any use to the factory cat probe? Is there any easy way to hook up a digital thermometer to this probe? I am trying to get all my thermometers up, so that I can figure this stove out. Never sure when to open or close the bypass damper. This is my first wood stove.
 
I am a new owner of an Encore 2040. Is there any use to the factory cat probe? Is there any easy way to hook up a digital thermometer to this probe? I am trying to get all my thermometers up, so that I can figure this stove out. Never sure when to open or close the bypass damper. This is my first wood stove.
From the manual (p. 21,) "An optional surface thermometer tells you when to adjust the air control, and when to refuel...Take temperature readings with a thermometer located in the middle of the griddle. Surface thermometer is a valuable guide to operation
An optional surface thermometer tells you when to adjust the air control, and when to refuel. (Fig. 36) For example, when the thermometer registers at least 450°F. (230°C) after start-up you know the stove is hot enough and it may be time to close the damper. Note that the stove will warm up much sooner than the chimney, though; a warm chimney is the key to easy, effective stove operation. Please review the draft management information on Page 27 to see how the size, type, and location of your chimney will affect your stove operation. When thermometer readings drop below 350°F (175°C) it’s time to adjust the air control for a higher burn rate or to reload the stove. A temperature reading over 650°F. (340°C) is a sign to
reduce the air supply to slow the burn rate."
They go into how to use the cat probe in the following section. Not sure how easy it would be to hook up a digital probe, or if that is even necessary.
 
Well, now I don't really see a need for the washer on the damper rod (on my Encore 2550) so I think I'll leave it out. What they call a spacer on the fire back kit pdf http://www.intrepidcreativity.com/r...catalytic-replacement/encore2550-fireback.pdf, does it act as a bushing where the rod goes thru the hole in the side casting? If so the washer would be outside next to the handle--don't think I've ever seen one there...
Still waiting the refractory and a tube of stove cement but I've got my gaskets cemented in...probably won't need a fire for at least 2-3 more weeks, still I'm ready to get this mess all back together.


edit: OK now I see that the spacer doesn't need to go in with the upper fire back, it simply slips on from outside before you attach the handle...duh, sorry a greenie here...
 
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I am a new owner of an Encore 2040.

Is there any use to the factory cat probe? Is there any easy way to hook up a digital thermometer to this probe? I am trying to get all my thermometers up, so that I can figure this stove out. Never sure when to open or close the bypass damper. This is my first wood stove.

i use the cat probe that came with it, and it is helpful as it gives a quick glance. if you are going all digital, you can easily replace the cat probe with a digital, although I am not sure now necessary that is. I did have to poke pretty hard to get it through the back.

I just posted this above as a quick cheat sheet that I am making to put by the stove, it may be helpful for you:

- Flue temp should be >250º and between 250º and 450º
- griddle temp 450º to 650º
- close air to keep griddle temp around 450º
- Engage cat when 3-4" of coals on bottom and griddle temp 450º
- Cat temp between 500º and 1700º (1100º ideal)
- close air when cat temp is around 1100º
- reload when griddle temp <300º
- freshen fire when cat temp is <500º
 
Digital meteres are nice (no need to peek behind the stove). AT100 from Auber is what several members use, with different cat stoves.

Mine reads nice 72 right now.....
This is a strange shoulder season for sure! Calling for hot and humid tomorrow 80s and down to 40s on Thur.
 
A marker tells you where your stove has gone while you were out. ==c
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