2020/21 VC Owners thread

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Yea I saw that and changed out the connectors that you crimp over the wires with new ones. The setting is still on "k type" so its got to be the probe right?
Double check the wire, do you own a multimeter? You can check the wire for continuity to make sure you didn’t break it somehow.
 
Double check the wire, do you own a multimeter? You can check the wire for continuity to make sure you didn’t break it somehow.

Thanks for the help!
My multimeter is old but I put it on the ohms scale and the wire seems to have continuity. I'm assuming its still fine and the connector went bad for whatever reason. It's only $1.60 so I ordered 3 since shipping was like six bucks either way.
Although I spent the first two and a half seasons burning without a CAT probe, its awful going from having one to not. Especially after installing a brand new cat. Really hoping I don't over fire it too much.
 
Thanks for the help!
My multimeter is old but I put it on the ohms scale and the wire seems to have continuity. I'm assuming its still fine and the connector went bad for whatever reason. It's only $1.60 so I ordered 3 since shipping was like six bucks either way.
Although I spent the first two and a half seasons burning without a CAT probe, its awful going from having one to not. Especially after installing a brand new cat. Really hoping I don't over fire it too much.
How does the end of the probe look like? Like new, discolored, burnt?
 
Probe does not look burned and seems to have continuity but I just spoke with Kane (i think thats how he pronounced it) from Auber instruments and he said it has to be the sensor wire. The likelihood of it being the connector is very slim. Apparently the sensor wire can have no breaks but the spot where it connects to probe can be faulty and only show when it hits about 500 degrees. Which would make sense because that was right when I got the error message. I was able to add a new k thermocouple to my order for 50 percent off since mine only lasted a year. Nice folks there. I believe they're in China but I won't hold that against them.

A little tip I learned for anyone who has the AT 100: if you ever have an issue and are not sure if its the meter or the probe.... take tweezers and touch the positive and negative terminals. It will read 70 (or maybe whatever your room temp is). If you still have the error message then its the meter that's bad. Hope that helps someone at some point.
 
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Here is a picture of some of the ones that I would use for overnight. While I am splitting I will split specifically for overnight. The rest will be regular splits and will be any shape.. pie shaped it doesn't matter to me its for the day and during the day the stove burns more evenly because the air is not turned down more than half way until the coaling stage.
Today I woke up and lit the stove. It was to warm yesterday so I let it go out.
I lit the stove at 5am and got it up to temp and got the cat engaged. and added 2splits of wood and l let it run for a bit letting the cat run like 900+ a little bit about 6.15am
Then I added alot of wood big splits and filled the box almost to the top.
I let it catch a little and closed the damper let it run for 5 minutes and then turned the air back to half way and let the stove go till all the wood went almost to coals. The box is filled almost half way with coals at this point. At about 11am with the box filled with coals I turned the air down all the way as my house was warm enough like 75 in the stove room.. 71 in the hall to the kids bedrooms. its is now 4.12pm and the temp in my house has dropped some as it went down to 22 degrees at my house this morning. There are still active coals at the bottom of my stove and my cat temp is 228 degrees. I will soon rake the ash, drop some small splits on the coals get my cat going and then load it up for the night and let it go. There are a number of ways to run this stove, this is just how I run it sometimes. You will need to use different techniques based on how cold it its outside and the amount of heat required.
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Thanks for the tips...
I would say those are about the average size I am usually using over night as well. I am feeling like I would have better luck with bigger splits. On the left are the average of what I usually split and on the right are the new ones that I have been doing bigger. Am I crazy? I'm sure these wont be ready by next year but I'd rather wait and have decent splits and not over fire.
 

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just went through and tightened all accessible bolts slightly including new SS upper fireback, they have been holding up well so far for those who were asking. slight air leak on the left door gasket but it’s still controllable so I’ll wait. Hope everyone is keeping safe and warm.
 
Thanks for the tips...
I would say those are about the average size I am usually using over night as well. I am feeling like I would have better luck with bigger splits. On the left are the average of what I usually split and on the right are the new ones that I have been doing bigger. Am I crazy? I'm sure these wont be ready by next year but I'd rather wait and have decent splits and not over fire.
Both sides look like a good mixture of splits. Love the wood guard too, looks like it means business ;lol
 
just went through and tightened all accessible bolts slightly including new SS upper fireback, they have been holding up well so far for those who were asking. slight air leak on the left door gasket but it’s still controllable so I’ll wait. Hope everyone is keeping safe and warm.
I broke a bolt that works the damper door.. replace it October 19 and so far.so good. A friend of mine owns a stove shop and that was what he suggested..
 
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I broke a bolt that works the damper door.. replace it October 19 and so far.so good. A friend of mine owns a stove shop and that was what he suggested..
Which? I’ve broken most bolts and handles on this stove lol. 1/4-20 couplers and bolts have been used in most places.
 
Which? I’ve broken most bolts and handles on this stove lol. 1/4-20 couplers and bolts have been used in most places.
the bolt in the middle of the damper door.. had to drill it out.. it sucked..
 
So, loaded the ol encore up for a top down start. Lite off good, stove top up to temp, stack up to temp, closed the bypass...and proceeded to kill mosquitos for 30 mins trying to get the cat up to temp. Now (still on the original load) have the stove backed off to 400f and the cat is setting at 1600. The only thing I changed is this load is all wood I had on the enclosed porch I didn’t burn from last time I had a fire and it maybe dried out too much? I know 1600 isn’t demo high but you always get that nice spike when you kill all the air to the box trying to get it under control.
 
So, loaded the ol encore up for a top down start. Lite off good, stove top up to temp, stack up to temp, closed the bypass...and proceeded to kill mosquitos for 30 mins trying to get the cat up to temp. Now (still on the original load) have the stove backed off to 400f and the cat is setting at 1600. The only thing I changed is this load is all wood I had on the enclosed porch I didn’t burn from last time I had a fire and it maybe dried out too much? I know 1600 isn’t demo high but you always get that nice spike when you kill all the air to the box trying to get it under control.
You lost me on the “mosquito” part.
 
Stack was smoking...a lot.

I realize there are no mosquitos out flying around here this time of year...was trying to make light of the fact I was unable to get my stove up and running on the cat like it usually does.
 
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killing mosquitoes lol. That happens to the best of us occasionally. Wood gassed faster than normal and cat couldn’tkeep up? Who knows.
 
I think I found the problem this morning. Did a small reload to get stove going again and as I was waiting on it to catch I was looking the bypass door over. Nice clean edge where It seats on the gasket...except for about an inch along the top left. Gonna be checking that seal Monday when the stove is cold.
This stove hasn’t had a bolt turned on it or a gasket replaced in over 20 years. Probably still the factory gasket.
 
I think I found the problem this morning. Did a small reload to get stove going again and as I was waiting on it to catch I was looking the bypass door over. Nice clean edge where It seats on the gasket...except for about an inch along the top left. Gonna be checking that seal Monday when the stove is cold.
This stove hasn’t had a bolt turned on it or a gasket replaced in over 20 years. Probably still the factory gasket.
Down the rabbit hole you go....
 
First time post here. I've been lurking ALOT the past week trying to research and find my stove. Does any VC owner here have any experience with the VC Dauntless Flexburn? It's a newer stove. We are hearth-mounting and its one of the few that I think will fit. Is this a stove that I'm going to have to monitor all the time to ensure all the settings are correct? I'm coming from a 1980 Federal Airtight that is a finicky B*$*@&, and I don' want anything similar.
 
First time post here. I've been lurking ALOT the past week trying to research and find my stove. Does any VC owner here have any experience with the VC Dauntless Flexburn? It's a newer stove. We are hearth-mounting and its one of the few that I think will fit. Is this a stove that I'm going to have to monitor all the time to ensure all the settings are correct? I'm coming from a 1980 Federal Airtight that is a finicky B*$*@&, and I don' want anything similar.


Sorry, here's a pic of my fireplace for reference.
 

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I believe that my primary air may be going out of adjustment.. when the stove is cold.. the primary air door should be closed.. so says the manual... where should be the primary air control handle be...Im assuming all the way back...Is there any recommendations that you you guys have on adjusting the primaryair..... my stove is a 2040
 
Well it looks like I may have lucked out. After a light wire brushing and vacuum of the bypass damper seat and gasket I broke out the ol dollar bill. To tight to get out on the right side, was able to pull out on the left side but had decent resistance. The gasket felt the same on both sides. ‍
While I was in there I vacuumed the top of the cat, would have removed it for inspection but the fireback is apparently stuck to the refractory.
Small fire in it now, it’s running like it always has.

my suspicion is a piece of bark ended up in the bypass gasket and started a small leak that just got bigger as time went by. I like top loading but it’s bit me twice now, just gonna stick with front load. First time I got a small piece of bark in the gasket for the top door, that’s when I started always turning on the lights to do reloads!
I also took the opportunity to bolt the dragons back on, one was loose and the other had fell of completely.
 
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Good to hear. I have only front loaded my vc on hot coals. It was one big piece of ugly maple that would not fit from the top. Did not like the experience.
 
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