I use the smell technique when I go in the TV room and get distracted and forget to flip the damper or turn the stove down. I have a magnetic thermometer on my stove pipe adapter and the smell starts when it's above 500. Don't know what the actual flue temp is but 500 is the temperature of smell as my wife puts it.
2023/24 VC owners thread general discussion
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I use my cap as the trigger of when I need to sweep. Fortunatly in this place I can use a 12ft ladder to get on the roof to look at my cap.
News update:
the wife and I are closing on a new property about 300 miles east of us with a different home and property. This way we arent living in the cabin 24x7 and the new place has a pellet stove currently. If we get it we will be looking at adding a wood stove to the living area for auxilary heating if we lose power.
Not sure yet if I will get another VC.
AsylumResident
Feeling the Heat
If that was my choice, I would probably opt to not go for another VC.
A BK would be top of my list, but its the devil you know vs the devil you don't..... I would think long and hard before I bought another VC.
That said when this VC stove runs right I love it..... tough call.
AsylumResident
Feeling the Heat
Ultimately I just want a stove where I can load it, set it and walk the heck away. It's taken me a full year to get even close to that with this Dauntless.
If I buy something else for this next home, I'm not getting a cat stove!
My opinion: It is not the cat per se that is giving some of us fits.... it is the way it is implemented and fed in the VC design. BK cats are at the top of the firebox so it gets a more evenly mixed exhaust stream and hopefully no flame channeling....
I have talked to several BK owners, some of which had VC designs in the past and they described it as "much less drama"..... hahaha
I would certainly also consider a reburn tube design, but I know very little about them and no experience either....
Well that sounds great.. if you get it.. I say we party at your house.. for the week.. I bring the liquor.. @arnermd can bring the ladies.. you provide the food and we will see how much trouble we can get ourselves into.. My wife always carry bail money for me.. so I know im good and will get out..
Im with you on the stove.. to me pellet is now way.. I really really like my stove.. but if I ever move or get another house Id probably go with another stove.. I was torn between VC, Blazeking, , and Lopi.. Probably go with the Blazeking.. I like trying something different.. seriously.. if I had the money I probably purchase a different stove every 3 or 4 years.. I probably could do it.. My other addictions get in the way of that happening..
AsylumResident
Feeling the Heat
Your invited.. as well as @JohnDaileyNH
.. what can you guys bring to the party.. calling @weee123 he seems fun..
Lets do it in the summer.... looks like I am going to be chained to my stove till April to prevent it from melting down. My stove needs a padded room.
Update for you kind folks. (I have a new VC 2040 cat)
I had the chimney guy over to take a look. A damper is likely not needed but we will do one in a couple weeks if I feel like I want the comfort of it after learning the stove for a couple weeks. He knew a lot about this stove and spent a good hour plus going through it with me. Still a noob so grain of salt and all that as a disclaimer.
What I've learned is:
First, the griddle is significantly warmer than the rest of the stove. I have two stove top thermometers (tested them together in the same area to confirm they are similar) and the griddle runs 100-200 degrees hotter than the area between the griddle and the flue collar. I also have a stove pipe thermometer. My auber at100 is not here yet but I do have the bimetal factory one for now for the cat. All but the griddle one show proper operating temps with plenty of primary air.
Anywhere but the griddle runs at good temps. The griddle always runs hot and the manual says to use that as your guide.
Second, controlling the size and amount of fuel is the best way for me to control the operating temperature. This thing uses less fuel to produce the same heat as my previous stove. I won't have it nailed down for some time but I can see how it's easy to overload and over fire this stove.
Third, it's easy to get into the the catalyst chamber to inspect it, install the probe, remove/clean the catalyst, and just to get an understanding of how it works. Having seen it with my own eyes and doing it with my own hands helped a lot.
Lastly, this stove likes a baby sitter. Maybe that will only be while I learn how it works with my system but there is a learning curve. I am not new to wood burning stoves and this is a whole new experience, at least for me.
*edit* I missed the ash pan note. I will not be emptying the ash pan using the swing out pan for the season. I will clean as needed as I have done with previous stoves directly from the firebox when it's cold.
I had the chimney guy over to take a look. A damper is likely not needed but we will do one in a couple weeks if I feel like I want the comfort of it after learning the stove for a couple weeks. He knew a lot about this stove and spent a good hour plus going through it with me. Still a noob so grain of salt and all that as a disclaimer.
What I've learned is:
First, the griddle is significantly warmer than the rest of the stove. I have two stove top thermometers (tested them together in the same area to confirm they are similar) and the griddle runs 100-200 degrees hotter than the area between the griddle and the flue collar. I also have a stove pipe thermometer. My auber at100 is not here yet but I do have the bimetal factory one for now for the cat. All but the griddle one show proper operating temps with plenty of primary air.
Anywhere but the griddle runs at good temps. The griddle always runs hot and the manual says to use that as your guide.
Second, controlling the size and amount of fuel is the best way for me to control the operating temperature. This thing uses less fuel to produce the same heat as my previous stove. I won't have it nailed down for some time but I can see how it's easy to overload and over fire this stove.
Third, it's easy to get into the the catalyst chamber to inspect it, install the probe, remove/clean the catalyst, and just to get an understanding of how it works. Having seen it with my own eyes and doing it with my own hands helped a lot.
Lastly, this stove likes a baby sitter. Maybe that will only be while I learn how it works with my system but there is a learning curve. I am not new to wood burning stoves and this is a whole new experience, at least for me.
*edit* I missed the ash pan note. I will not be emptying the ash pan using the swing out pan for the season. I will clean as needed as I have done with previous stoves directly from the firebox when it's cold.
this will depend on if your running with the bypass closed and the catalyst engaged
not enough info to say.....
What stove are you running? (add your model to your tagline so we know)
What are the other temps? Griddle and cat?
What condition is the stove in? Catlyst engaged or bypassed?
Generally with the cat engaged and up to temp a lower flue temp is better, but it needs to be warm enough to create enough draft.
If the cat is not lit off you could have some creosote buildup if the flue temp is too low.
Sorry about the lack of info. Stove encore 2040 cat c. Cat engaged steady 850 degrees. Sst around 525. Steel cat. No smoke coming out of chimney 25' ss liner
Hate to add to the list of questions but…
What kind of pipe are you measuring (single or double wall), what are you measuring it with (and have you checked your meter), how far from stove are you measuring?
Hey everyone im new here and just got an encore 2550 rebuilt and installed in our new to us home. the stove is green and i would love to know which green we have. i believe in the 2550 they had a classic green and a forest green. id love to get some warming Shevels as i think i may still be able to get them but i need to narrow down the color of my stove first. can anyone help me? hares a picture for what its worth but i think the greens are real similar, the date code is 2449 so im guessinf 244 day of 1999. thanks for any help!
525 is the same for me in that area. I have two for the top and my griddle meter always runs hot if placed where the manual says. Right now its 675. We have different flues but my pipe is 325. I don’t have the digital one yet for the catalyst but the factory included one is in the middle of the operating range.
For me it’s the amount of fuel that really stands out from my previous stove. Granted I’m being careful but it is significantly less than my old stove.
I wonder if there is a guide to what defines medium/large splits.
For me it’s the amount of fuel that really stands out from my previous stove. Granted I’m being careful but it is significantly less than my old stove.
I wonder if there is a guide to what defines medium/large splits.
So when you stated... crusing at 450 degrees internal Flue temperature to low?.. That was actually saying that you are measuring the flue gasses from the inside.. Are you measuring on the adapter and is the adapter double wall..
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